Contribute
Register

G4 Cube PSU Re-Stuffed

Status
Not open for further replies.
Thx MiniHack. I went to my local electronics supplier yesterday and purchased a 5vdc 3A relay. I built this little setup and it works great. It connects to one USB header and has a 2-pin connector to go to the pico. Tested it on the nuc perfectly.

Cost: 4 bucks.


jy84.jpg




Cheers!
 
Thx MiniHack. I went to my local electronics supplier yesterday and purchased a 5vdc 3A relay. I built this little setup and it works great. It connects to one USB header and has a 2-pin connector to go to the pico. Tested it on the nuc perfectly.

Cost: 4 bucks.


jy84.jpg




Cheers!

Cool. Nice little 5v relay and no need for a PCB. Modding how it should be done....:thumbup:
 
(1) first option is this:
http://www.add2psu.com

adaptor.png


This one will start a pico (or other secondary supply) when a molex (connected to the primary supply) gets powered on. It is not clear whether this does the switch on based on the 5v or the 12v line though - need to check the literature to see what voltage the relay on the board uses. Basically this is what my home made circuit for my old Mac Mini based build did - mine was triggered by any 5v line from the Mini.

According to the board's creator:

The adapter only switches the second PSU on via a closure on the power on pins on the
second PSU ATX connector.
"......the switch on of the secondary psu is NOT based on the Molex 5v or the 12v line."
I think the short answer is no.
 
According to the board's creator:

The adapter only switches the second PSU on via a closure on the power on pins on the
second PSU ATX connector.
"......the switch on of the secondary psu is NOT based on the Molex 5v or the 12v line."
I think the short answer is no.

I see from their video it is a 12v relay they use, so the 2nd PSU (i.e. a pico in our example) is turned on when the 12v line in the first PSU (as carried by the molex connection to the board) becomes active.
 
Kiwi, thanks for the suggestion. Just looked at the pictures... how would I go about plugging that thing into the NUC board. For the record, I do not have the two plugs that you mention, just like I am missing the internal USB header.
You would have to solder a wire to the positive pin on the motherboard, the negative can come from any header on the MB. These two wires would go to the input to PSU board I linked to in eBay.

I've seen it in some pictures, but always on boards with USB headers. Anyway, once I get the proper board, how do I plug this contraption in? How do I grab the 5V from it
You would have to solder wires to the board, it doesn't have sockets on it. There are two input and two out put pins. The output pins would then go the the Cube Sensor board.

and is it going to be the standby power I need to get the touch sensor working?
YES. The documentation implies the socket on the NUC (the one you don't have) is electrically connected to the external socket, so whenever there is power provided externally you will have power on the internal socket. Note: I am basing this off the DQ77KB MB which is fairly identical.

Obviously, I'm electrically challenged and I anticipate with a product coming from Shenzhen for 5 bucks that I will not even get Chiense instructions, let alone English
Of course. If you are not scared off by all of this, then I don't mind provide more details, ie. a wiring diagram. One thing I forgot to mention is the board on eBay has an adjustable output voltage, so you would need a voltmeter to calibrate it to the necessary 5V.

Sorry for delay in getting back to you.

PS I attached the wiring diagram for my Cube Switch - to DQ77KB motherboard. The Front Panel header I think is identical

Kiwi
 

Attachments

  • Cube_Switch.jpg
    Cube_Switch.jpg
    134.8 KB · Views: 308
I see that the Front Header has a 5v DC pin. I don't know if this is live all the time (ie: 5v Standby). Perhaps check it with the system powered off (green light on). Maybe you'll be surprised to find out it will solve your issue, who knows. There's nothing really discussed about it in the product spec.
I tested this pin on the DQ77KB motherboard and it is NOT a standby 5V source. I suspect it will be the same on the NUC.
 
You would have to solder a wire to the positive pin on the motherboard, the negative can come from any header on the MB. These two wires would go to the input to PSU board I linked to in eBay.

You would have to solder wires to the board, it doesn't have sockets on it. There are two input and two out put pins. The output pins would then go the the Cube Sensor board.

YES. The documentation implies the socket on the NUC (the one you don't have) is electrically connected to the external socket, so whenever there is power provided externally you will have power on the internal socket. Note: I am basing this off the DQ77KB MB which is fairly identical.

Of course. If you are not scared off by all of this, then I don't mind provide more details, ie. a wiring diagram. One thing I forgot to mention is the board on eBay has an adjustable output voltage, so you would need a voltmeter to calibrate it to the necessary 5V.

Sorry for delay in getting back to you.

PS I attached the wiring diagram for my Cube Switch - to DQ77KB motherboard. The Front Panel header I think is identical

Kiwi

Thanks kiwi for the answers. I am not as slick as you with the breaking up the quotes so I will lump all my questions together. If I return my NUC and get one with the two hole plug I will have to buy an matching plug and put wires and pins in there and solder the other end to the ebay board, correct? If I do not RMA my NUC because I decide I don't really need the USB header because there is no room inside the Cube PSU housing for anything anyway, could I use one of those two part silver adhesives? I have used it to join very fine wires in the past when I didn't trust my large solder tip. I have had no problems with any of the connections I have made, but wonder is I have gotten lucky or if the stuff really works. That way I don't need to solder onto the board. I would absolutely appreciate a wiring diagram of the little ebay thing to the cube switch if you do not mind. I found that the 9 pin on the NUC front panel header was not 5V standby as you mentioned in your second post so this little do-hicky appears to be my best chance without adding an extra hole in the back plate and putting in a pico PSU.

By the way, do you not use the LED on your switch? I guess since you just connect it like any LED to the mobo header maybe you didn't put it in your diagram. All I did with my cube switch in my ghetto powerlogix case is cut the leads to the LED and put them directly to the front panel header.

Thanks again

Spence
 
Thanks kiwi for the answers. I am not as slick as you with the breaking up the quotes so I will lump all my questions together. If I return my NUC and get one with the two hole plug I will have to buy an matching plug and put wires and pins in there and solder the other end to the ebay board, correct?
YES that is correct.

If I do not RMA my NUC because I decide I don't really need the USB header because there is no room inside the Cube PSU housing for anything anyway, could I use one of those two part silver adhesives? I have used it to join very fine wires in the past when I didn't trust my large solder tip. I have had no problems with any of the connections I have made, but wonder is I have gotten lucky or if the stuff really works. That way I don't need to solder onto the board.
I don't know about using "silver adhesive", if you have had success with fine wires in the past thats good, not sure how this would work directly onto a motherboard. Suggestion: consider getting a fine tip soldering iron.

I would absolutely appreciate a wiring diagram of the little ebay thing to the cube switch if you do not mind. I found that the 9 pin on the NUC front panel header was not 5V standby as you mentioned in your second post so this little do-hicky appears to be my best chance without adding an extra hole in the back plate and putting in a pico PSU.
Will put this together for you.

By the way, do you not use the LED on your switch? I guess since you just connect it like any LED to the mobo header maybe you didn't put it in your diagram. All I did with my cube switch in my ghetto powerlogix case is cut the leads to the LED and put them directly to the front panel header.

Thanks again

Spence
The LED on my switch works natively, ie controlled by the Cube switch itself. It pulses only when a finger is near.
 
I would absolutely appreciate a wiring diagram of the little ebay thing to the cube switch if you do not mind.
Here you go.
 

Attachments

  • NUC Cube Switch.jpg
    NUC Cube Switch.jpg
    162.3 KB · Views: 533
Such a show off with the separate quotes....

So you you only have those three wires connecting to the power switch? Nothing going to either the LED cathode or anode? Does your LED stay on when the computer is on or just pulse when your finger is nearby?

Spence
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top