Contribute
Register

G4 Cube PSU Re-Stuffed

Status
Not open for further replies.
I like how we all basically wait for mini hack to weigh in on anything Cube related... particularly the proximity switch stuff. So here is a bonus question for him - since I usually "earth" my switch by taking a wire out of a molex ground and connecting it to the metal cage that has the screws on the switch, how do I earth the switch when it is sitting on a piece of plastic end cap? Can I take a wire from one of the screws on the power switch and connect it to a ground on the front panel header of the NUC?
 
I like how we all basically wait for mini hack to weigh in on anything Cube related... particularly the proximity switch stuff. So here is a bonus question for him - since I usually "earth" my switch by taking a wire out of a molex ground and connecting it to the metal cage that has the screws on the switch, how do I earth the switch when it is sitting on a piece of plastic end cap? Can I take a wire from one of the screws on the power switch and connect it to a ground on the front panel header of the NUC?

Thanks for the flattery Spence. Won't let it go to my head.

But sure any ground will do. Doesn't need to be a heavy gauge wire. But of course the switch does need an earth but in the original config it got it through the Cube inner cage - so providing an earth to the metal screw that normally attaches the switch to the metal of the cube is fine. Equally you could attach your wire elsewhere by tracing the ground plane but the screw point is a convenient place to bring the wire to.
 
Thanks for the flattery Spence. Won't let it go to my head.

But sure any ground will do. Doesn't need to be a heavy gauge wire. But of course the switch does need an earth but in the original config it got it through the Cube inner cage - so providing an earth to the metal screw that normally attaches the switch to the metal of the cube is fine. Equally you could attach your wire elsewhere by tracing the ground plane but the screw point is a convenient place to bring the wire to.

Thank you, sir. I will most likely just take a loose wire from one of the two screws and and drop it right on a GND from the the front panel header. Seems easy enough and if I pull a little bit by accident the plug just pulls off the header and no solder point breakage.

In my Cube build I have the LED working like a regular power LED - in fact I just have two wires going from the two pins on the mobo header's LED terminal to the LED pins. After re-reading your wiring diagram I am interested in making it glow brighter in a proximity situation or at least giving it a try. In your original picture of the two ends (cathode and anode) and your soldering - you said that the end on the right (the one on the round side of the metal plate, the one on the side near the center opening?) is the pin to which you made the solder connection, but the picture makes it look like there is a little brown wire touching the other pin. Could you confirm that the the pin I want to solder the resistor to is the one that when looking straight down on the switch is the one that is on the side of the semi circle side of things. Also what kind of resistor do I need to buy? Thanks in advance.

I figure my flattery allowed me one more question :)

Edit: I completely forgot - as both of my Cube switch using build have on mobo power (Intel NUC and Intel DH61AG) I do not have a pico PSU from which to tap into pin 16. Is there an alternative for me? Say from the front panel header on either of these boards?
 
Thank you, sir. I will most likely just take a loose wire from one of the two screws and and drop it right on a GND from the the front panel header. Seems easy enough and if I pull a little bit by accident the plug just pulls off the header and no solder point breakage.

In my Cube build I have the LED working like a regular power LED - in fact I just have two wires going from the two pins on the mobo header's LED terminal to the LED pins. After re-reading your wiring diagram I am interested in making it glow brighter in a proximity situation or at least giving it a try. In your original picture of the two ends (cathode and anode) and your soldering - you said that the end on the right (the one on the round side of the metal plate, the one on the side near the center opening?) is the pin to which you made the solder connection, but the picture makes it look like there is a little brown wire touching the other pin. Could you confirm that the the pin I want to solder the resistor to is the one that when looking straight down on the switch is the one that is on the side of the semi circle side of things. Also what kind of resistor do I need to buy? Thanks in advance.

I figure my flattery allowed me one more question :)

Edit: I completely forgot - as both of my Cube switch using build have on mobo power (Intel NUC and Intel DH61AG) I do not have a pico PSU from which to tap into pin 16. Is there an alternative for me? Say from the front panel header on either of these boards?

To be honest I really wouldn't bother changing. The glow thing is not exactly spectacular.

On the last point, what you need is a 5v standby voltage, if there is one on a header then great. If there isn't then I think the suggestion of Kiwi of getting hold of a small DC-DC board - or making one - is going to be a cheaper solution all round.
 
Hi Spence

You wouldn't have any extra wires sticking out the back.You will need a short DC split cable an a extra hole for the pico power plug

View attachment 58856

Anyway kiwi's solution seems better for your build, I don't know if the pico will fit in there.


Can anyone tell me how the pico PSU is actually powered on by the motherboard in a configuration as shown above to supply 12v for a case fan? This is assuming the one of the plugs goes to the NUC, the other gets wired to the pico. What wiring is necessary to 'start' the pico when the nuc is fired up?

Please comment anyone.


Thanks.
Ersterhernd
 
Can anyone tell me how the pico PSU is actually powered on by the motherboard in a configuration as shown above to supply 12v for a case fan? This is assuming the one of the plugs goes to the NUC, the other gets wired to the pico. What wiring is necessary to 'start' the pico when the nuc is fired up?

Please comment anyone.


Thanks.
Ersterhernd
Hi Ersterhernd

Please check minihack's post in my Cube build.http://www.tonymacx86.com/powermac-g4-cube/98121-uncut-g4-cube-mod-ongoing-project.html#post604091

hope it helps
 
Thx iCubeFan that's a big help. I'm thinking that maybe I wouldn't have to waste a precious USB port for the 5v either. Pin 9 of the front panel header is sitting there doing absolutely nothing right now. :think:




Thx!
 
So you're going to replace the stock fan?
 
So you're going to replace the stock fan?

Not exactly, iCubeFan. Scouring Craigslist over the weekend and I purchased my next project. Its going to require a picopsu. Will post about it soon...


Ersterhernd
 
Not exactly, iCubeFan. Scouring Craigslist over the weekend and I purchased my next project. Its going to require a picopsu. Will post about it soon...


Ersterhernd

Interesting....

In that case it might be useful for me to post a couple of ready made options for powering on a pico (or any second psu) from another mobo - as I've been taking a look into the various different commercial options for my next build too!

(1) first option is this:
http://www.add2psu.com

adaptor.png


This one will start a pico (or other secondary supply) when a molex (connected to the primary supply) gets powered on. It is not clear whether this does the switch on based on the 5v or the 12v line though - need to check the literature to see what voltage the relay on the board uses. Basically this is what my home made circuit for my old Mac Mini based build did - mine was triggered by any 5v line from the Mini.


(2) and then this:
cpa-167.jpg


This is an intermediary cable that works if you have a conventional primary supply and uses the motherboard system (green wire to ground) to turn on 2 supplies at once.

These might give some ideas dependent on what you might want to do.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top