MacTester57's iMac G5 17" (A1058 Model)

[kiwisincebirth]

Success!

I'm writing this post on the iMac G5 It seems, that the annoying start problems are solved now. What was the solution? I had no 100nF capacitor in my ATX deactivating circuit. After adding it, everything seems to work fine now... I guess, that the Arduino generates some very short impulses on the ATX deactivating output. They are suppressed now with the 100nF cap.

Kiwi: did you plan this cap from beginning or did you add it later because of issues?

What's working @ the moment:
- ATX control circuit
- start chime
- Brightness Control with Kiwi's slider applet (crashes sometimes, when I'm using "active corners" for display sleep). Any thoughts?
- Fan speed control (temperature sensors not yet wired, but tested before "on the bench")
- loading Arduino firmware without crashing the system (PSU stays on, full CCFL brightness)

What's not:
- The touch sensors would work, but their readings are not stable enough (they are drifting, so not usable @ the moment)

To do:
- USB 2.0 wiring (with hub)
- USB 3.0 wiring
- Connecting the WiFi / BT antennas. A new Tyco antenna is already wired below the midpane.

MacTester

Good News

Will look forward to more information an updates as you finish things off. Yes the capacitor was in early design (post almost a year ago), but I remember adding it during design (on CircuitLab.com), to reduce spikes on level transition. I think the there simulations of clocks (which I used to test) have 0 impedance hence the spikes, so I think I got lucky on that one.

During build I played around with adding additional capacitors, before hitting on my other fixes, i.e. the diode controlling the NUC power switch and removing the fuse on the Arduino.

Anyway I is good to know the design has been proved, so again, Well Done and thanks.

Kiwi

PS What USB Audio solution are you using ? I saw Esterhernd uses a Startech device in his builds, which would you recommend ?

 

[MacTester57]

Hi Kiwi

Thanks for your praise.

Brightness Control with Kiwi's slider applet (crashes sometimes, when I'm using "active corners" for display sleep). Any thoughts?

Do you have this issue too?

PS What USB Audio solution are you using ? I saw Esterhernd uses a Startech device in his builds, which would you recommend ?

I've used this in both my iMac G4 & G5 hacks: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/External-...er-/400796726344?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CH:3160
Advantages:
- dirt cheap
- usb connector with cable
- mic and headphone out work absolutely flawless with OS X
- comes in a genuine apple box

MacTester

 

[kiwisincebirth]

Hi Kiwi

Thanks for your praise.



Do you have this issue too?



I've used this in both my iMac G4 & G5 hacks: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/External-...er-/400796726344?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CH:3160
Advantages:
- dirt cheap
- usb connector with cable
- mic and headphone out work absolutely flawless with OS X
- comes in a genuine apple box

MacTester

sorry I missed your question, no I don't use active corners, haven't tested (yet), what gets reported in the console, should give a hint.

 

[MacTester57]

Wiring below the midplane:

I've removed the original wireless antennas, because their cables were not long enough. A Tyco Laptop antenna was used. It’s used for both WiFi and BT and is wired up to this module: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atheros-AR5...4U-/300959708175?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CH:3160
Works fine after some adjustments in the DSDT.

The touch sensors are made out of this tape: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EMI-COPPER-FOIL-SHIELDING-TAPE-SELF-ADHESIVE/291357007506?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1%2 6asc=20140107083358&meid=31bef7ba0e0f4d46b4d 1fbdb7b5b8965&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=10%2 6sd=271241265280. I've soldered the DuPont cables and protected the construction with tape from shorting out with the midframe:

The touch sensors are not yet working (unstable readings)

Speaker switcher relay

I did not want an additional speaker for the Apple chime. So I've decided to "share" the right speaker. This required the following speaker switcher board.

Schematic:

Board:

The Chime sound quality of the LS1820 board is still poor. I will not use this module anymore.

USB 2.0 Hub

The modified NZXT hub. The two USB sockets were desoldered, because there is not enough thickness available in the G5 to use them. Note, that 5V of the Arduino cable is not connected:

USB 3.0 wiring

I've used this cables: http://www.ebay.de/itm/USB-3-0-Verl...5m-/141353760105?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CH:3160

Modified for fitting into the grey plastic frame:

... and then mounted:

How the connector area looks like:

The USB 2.0 ports are not yet wired with the NZXT Hub, because the required cables did not yet arrive.

And the innards @ the moment:

First test run with the back cover on. Works fine:

And a short video presentation:

To do:
- USB 2.0 wiring
- Temperature sensor wiring
- Original IR sensor
- Brightness touch sensors (they are wired, but their readings are unstable)
- some Arduino software improvements
- Maybe connecting the DVD drive (I don't really need it)

Thanks again to Kiwi for pioneering the Arduino based SMC and for the excellent slider applet!
http://www.tonymacx86.com/imac-mods/107859-kiwis-next-project-imac-g5.html

MacTester

 

[MacTester57]

Alternative HDMI connectors

This "HDMI 1.4 Male to Female M/F 180° Rotation Swivel Folding Adapter Converter Gold" arrived today. It's a more or less perfect alternative for an iMac HDMI conversion. You could even reuse the wires, if you want.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDMI-1-4-...ld-/191255817398?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:CH:3160

MacTester

 

[ersterhernd]

Hi MacTester, as per usual your build looks fabulous. Your attention to detail is incredible. Excellent job!

I've just purchased two of the hdmi connectors you linked. Have to make a couple of spare cables.

Two A1076 builds on the go right now for my sister and father. Very busy with both.

Pass on our best regards to everyone.


Cheers!

 

[MacTester57]

Hi MacTester, as per usual your build looks fabulous...

Thanks, ersterhernd

Pass on our best regards to everyone.

We wish the same to your family.

SMC board concept

Kiwi and I had a long discussion in his iMac G5 thread about the SMC board. Here are some concept drawings of my branch:
- Same size and mounting hole layout as my prototype board
- Supply connector with the same pinout, so no changes on the supply wiring will be necessary
- All connectors are located on the edge of the board
- The cables of both top fans should be long enough with this layout
- PSU controller with RC-filter (R12 added)
- The mounting holes are grounded
- I've made a library with the following parts: PAM8403, WTV020, Apple fan header

Schematic (EDIT - the Audio section is now finished:

Board:

MacTester

 

[kiwisincebirth]

Thanks, ersterhernd

We wish the same to your family.

SMC board concept

Kiwi and I had a long discussion in his iMac G5 thread about the SMC board. Here are some concept drawings of my branch:
- Same size and mounting hole layout as my prototype board
- Supply connector with the same pinout, so no changes on the supply wiring will be necessary
- All connectors are located on the edge of the board
- The cables of both top fans should be long enough with this layout
- PSU controller with RC-filter (R12 added)
- The mounting holes are grounded
- I've made a library with the following parts: PAM8403, WTV020, Apple fan header

MacTester

looks very good, it is great we can come out with two quite different designs and have full circuit and software compatability.

Because of the large differences in my circuit (fan control) I have also departed in other details as well, board size, mounting hole placement, etc.

I will also like to adopt some of your improvement, r12, grounded mounting holes. And those custom parts look great, if I could have a copy that would be awesome.

Btw the pam amplifier boards I have, have a unusual design inconsistency, the input signal (three) pins are not aligned to standard 0.1 inch breadboard friendly spacing. In your pcb design those three pins would be shifted 0.025 inches to the right. I am not sure if this is isolated to certain manufactures and I got a dud, or all boards will have the same "breadboard unfriendly" issue.

I will post my current board shortly

As yet haven't had time to test audio circuit.

Kiwi

 

[MacTester57]

looks very good

Thanks, kiwi

Btw the pam amplifier boards I have, have a unusual design inconsistency, the input signal (three) pins are not aligned to standard 0.1 inch breadboard friendly spacing

Yes, I know. My amplifier boards did arrive this week and they have the same issue. I've ordered them from two different sellers and they are both identical in this respect.

And those custom parts look great, if I could have a copy that would be awesome.

I will provide the lib as soon as the amplifier grid is correct.

As yet haven't had time to test audio circuit.

I've tested the WTV020 modules this week. They are one of the worst pieces of j..k I've eve seen. It took me about one week to get them up and running... The modules have a nice "QC passed" sticker on it, but they all have a serious hardware issue and will never work! Solution: running a wire from PCB GND to SD slot pin 6 (it's floating in original condition!!). This issue even ki..ed my first no-name SD card... Fortunately the genuine SanDisk 2GB cards survived! The second issue is, that they don't tell you, that the micro SD card needs to be re-formatted with 32kb cluster size (FAT format, used my old Shuttle mod with Windows Vista)...

At the moment I'm testing the module with the PAM 8403 amp and the original speakers.

MacTester

 

[kiwisincebirth]

It took me while to get the WTV module running. tried multiple modules, and several sandisk SD card sizes, until I got something to work. Yes I think there are all sorts of issues with these boards, covered on internet, but I haven't found anything smaller, and it is far better then ISD1820 module.

Will be interested to see how you soldered a wire...