MacTester57's iMac G5 17" (A1058 Model)

[MacTester57]

This is brilliant work, MacTester! Its a real treat to watch your progress, that SMC board is amazing.

Thanks! Have a good new year.

My father and brother-in-law were using the A1076 build here for a couple of hours. They both want one built.

Cool! So we will see more iMacs "made by ersterhernd" here.

I've made much progress with the wiring today. Pics will follow.

MacTester

 

[MacTester57]

LAN wiring:
As ersterhernd stated in his thread, the original ethernet socket has small signal transformers inside and it would be very difficult (if even possible) to reuse it. So I've used a LAN extension cable and replaced the old socket.

Removing the outer mould and a piece of the outer insulation:

Shortening the inner mould to fit into the old grey connector cover:

Main harness wiring:
This is the wiring on the remaining piece of the logic board. The USB ports are not yet done:

... and from the top:

This is how it looks like in the case. Note, that both connectors for the drives and the LCD will be hidden below the optical drive:

Audio wiring:

Audio out pinout:
- Tip = Left channel
- Ring = Right channel
- Sleeve = GND

Microphone pinout:
- Tip = not connected
- Ring = Mic. connector on logic board middle pin
- Sleeve = Mic. connector on logic board right pin
- Mic. connector on logic board left pin = shield (not connected, but could be wired to chassis GND

Testing
Audio:

SMC board:

It works like it did in post #10:
- PSU control
- Apple Chime
- Sleep LED
- Brightness controller (not yet tested with the Inverter)
- etc...

The next step will be to mount the NUC.

MacTester

 

[MacTester57]

A quick report. The NUC is mounted inside the iMac, most things are wired, BUT:
- The bluish screen is back (even with the Powermac) G5
- The SMC works so far (brightness controller not yet tested)
- The NUC does not always finish booting, if supplied with 12V from the original PSU...

I've tested the PSU with the oscilloscope. All the voltages appear to be stable under load (as far as visible with my cheap China-Oscilloscope). Then disassembled it and inspected the caps - no bulging ones found...

Your thoughts? I guess, that the cheap temporary 12V power plug for the NUC is the culprit (at least for the last issue).

MacTester

 

[ersterhernd]

Hi Mactester, download this program to see which color is off. You may have a short between a shield and a signal wire. It happened to me. One strand was touching and it killed my red. Same blueish screen as youve got. This program tests all the color channels.

http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/10793/pixel-check


The PSU may need recapping. Perhaps ID the one you have on Jimwarholic page and order a new set of caps off eBay. I did two of them here, both worked great.

Good Luck...


Ersterhernd

 

[kiwisincebirth]

A quick report. The NUC is mounted inside the iMac, most things are wired, BUT:
- The bluish screen is back (even with the Powermac) G5
- The SMC works so far (brightness controller not yet tested)
- The NUC does not always finish booting, if supplied with 12V from the original PSU...

I've tested the PSU with the oscilloscope. All the voltages appear to be stable under load (as far as visible with my cheap China-Oscilloscope). Then disassembled it and inspected the caps - no bulging ones found...

Your thoughts? I guess, that the cheap temporary 12V power plug for the NUC is the culprit (at least for the last issue).

MacTester

I think you need to do some basic steps to identify the issue's. From previous post (#16) both the LCD screen and the NUC wore working perfectly connected together. You need to back track to a good working state, then work out what changed.

For your third point, "doesn't not finish booting". What does this mean?

 

[MacTester57]

I've just completely rewired my display cable:

Seems to work now...

IMPORTANT in my opinion:
- a small vice, a good lamp and a magnifying glass
- The shields (going to pin 2, 5, 8, 11) should be cut ca. 1mm shorter than the thin red and green wires. This ensures, that it is impossible to pull on them.
- Don't twist the shields too hard for tinning. If do so, it could happen, that the red and green insulations could be overheated during soldering the shield
- Solder the two outer shield wires to the HDMI sheet metal housing. This provides additional tensile strength and the cable will be better shielded.

I guess, I will not secure the connector with glue anymore, because his caused the blueish screen issue. Ersterhernd: I've read, that the JB Kwik weld you used contains metal? Isn't it electrically conductive?

MacTester

 

[ersterhernd]

I made sure of Kwik Welds properties before I began.

See FAQ question 8....


http://www.jbweld.com/faqs/


It is very hard within 5-6 minutes so I can continue wiring.


Also, found connectors here but no shopping cart?

http://www.hdequipment.eu/Freeport-...withought-Cover-with-pcb-1.5mm-thickness.html



Cheers!

 

[MacTester57]

Thanks, ersterhernd! I've ordered a JB Kwik weld a while ago. I will do some tests with it and maybe use it to secure the connector.

Gruss
MacTester

 

[kiwisincebirth]

I've just completely rewired my display cable...

Seems to work now...

IMPORTANT in my opinion:
- a small vice, a good lamp and a magnifying glass
- The shields (going to pin 2, 5, 8, 11) should be cut ca. 1mm shorter than the thin red and green wires. This ensures, that it is impossible to pull on them.
- Don't twist the shields too hard for tinning. If do so, it could happen, that the red and green insulations could be overheated during soldering the shield
- Solder the two outer shield wires to the HDMI sheet metal housing. This provides additional tensile strength and the cable will be better shielded.

I guess, I will not secure the connector with glue anymore, because his caused the blueish screen issue. Ersterhernd: I've read, that the JB Kwik weld you used contains metal? Isn't it electrically conductive?

MacTester

Very good job and great photos as well. I agree with your opinions, they are good advice. On the subject of glueing, I choose not to. Really for two reasons. 1) In normal use the cable is not going to be moved in the slightest, so long as there is adequite support (your points above) you should be safe. Note: Metal fatigue happens when the metal is under different changing stresses. 2) If there is a problem in the cable potentially I can re-solder a single connection. Glue prevents this and means having to cut the cable and re-do the entire thing, which is much more work and also could introduce its own (new) issues.

Keep up the good work.

Kiwi

 

[MacTester57]

Very good job and great photos as well. I agree with your opinions, they are good advice

Thanks!

On the subject of glueing, I choose not to. Really for two reasons. 1) In normal use the cable is not going to be moved in the slightest, so long as there is adequite support (your points above) you should be safe. Note: Metal fatigue happens when the metal is under different changing stresses. 2) If there is a problem in the cable potentially I can re-solder a single connection. Glue prevents this and means having to cut the cable and re-do the entire thing, which is much more work and also could introduce its own (new) issues.

I agree with that. It's important to have access to the soldering joints. If not, you will have to cut the entire connector off and throw it in the bin, if something should happen to the wiring...

MacTester