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Kiwi's Next Project - iMac G5

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Hi Kiwi, your layout looks great. The native PSU looks feature-rich and is already mounted for you. Three considerations...

1. Given the age of the PSU, it'd be prudent to keep a spare, ready to go in case of a failure. A quick swap and you'd be back in business. Could potentially save you considerable down-time if it occurred. Cost would be a consideration, too.

2. Keep a spare Picaxe chip pre-programmed on hand if you're concerned about the unlikely failure of the startup chip.

3. The NUC's (3 so far) that I've installed all give a warning at startup if they've been completely disconnected from an AC source. This requires a 2nd attempt which proceeds to the bootloader. If shutdown normally and left with the AC connected (green standby light on) then they all boot fine. You may want to test this with your Haswell model prior to assembly, so you get your power map configured correctly. The NUC (if its like all three of mine) may require some standby power on to boot normally. It draws about 1W in the off state.



Ersterhernd
 
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The NUC's (3 so far) that I've installed all give a warning at startup if they've been completely disconnected from an AC source

?? Strange! I've never had this message here. Sounds like the CMOS battery has a problem.

Kiwi, This link could be useful for you: http://fredriksjoholm.se/slira/?page_id=3

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Hi Kiwi, your layout looks great. The native PSU looks feature-rich and is already mounted for you. Three considerations...

1. Given the age of the PSU, it'd be prudent to keep a spare, ready to go in case of a failure. A quick swap and you'd be back in business. Could potentially save you considerable down-time if it occurred. Cost would be a consideration, too.

2. Keep a spare Picaxe chip pre-programmed on hand if you're concerned about the unlikely failure of the startup chip.

... Ersterhernd
The cost spares are quite high, I may look at replacing capacitors if a visual inspection shows an issue. For number 2, I will wire the controller to failsafe, i.e. keep the PSU turned on and pass the switch onto the NIC if micro controller fails
?? Strange! I've never had this message here. Sounds like the CMOS battery has a problem.

Kiwi, This link could be useful for you: http://fredriksjoholm.se/slira/?page_id=3

MacTester
Thanks for the link BUT Now I am really confused, the link states that the G5 20" LG display is LVDS (not comparable with DVI) and this is supported by the downloadable PDF data-sheet.

Whereas Dremel Junkies blog states the opposite, and lists the LG panel as being TMDS, and goes into detail (in comments in May 2012) that he has basically confirmed this to be working.

http://www.dremeljunkie.com/2011/07/20-lcds-signaling-inverters-and-pinouts.html

Not sure what to believe at this stage. If the panel is LVDS I am not sure I have a workable solution!!! I have an idea about how to do some easy verification, but finding time at the moment is difficult.

As always, any suggestion appreciated
Kiwi

UPDATE : I Think I have resolved the Issue

I think the information on the fredriksjoholm web site is misleading. The download that he has posted for the panel while for the LM201W01 is for SLA1 (suffix) not the A5 used in the iMac G5. I found another site, that confirms the A5 spec as being TMDS, so will proceed as planned, as per DremelJunkie guides

http://www.panelook.com/LM201W01-A5_LG Display_20.1_LCM_parameter_4881.html
 
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BTW: I am not going to be able to use the Dremel Junkie method for wiring to a DVI socket, the connector in the G5 is very different. I will likely end up soldering this one.
 

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I will likely end up soldering this one.

Oh my god, you will need good eyes!

Thanks for the link BUT Now I am really confused, the link states that the G5 20" LG display is LVDS (not comparable with DVI) and this is supported by the downloadable PDF data-sheet.

Sad but true: The Internet is full of bull..it. :oops:
 
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Oh my god, you will need good eyes!
... and a very steady hand. ;)

I did a minor investigation last night and removed the outer layer of insulation tape off the Video cable

IMG_2109.JPG
Good news is that the colour coding looks to be consistent with Dremel Junkie method, you can plainly see the RGB and clock shielded cables.

Bad news is the Inverter cable is a plain black ribbon cable, so will have to map this out myself.

http://www.macpartsonline.com/922-6...ogic-board-imac-g5-17inch-20inch-imac-g5.html
 
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Good news is that the colour coding looks to be consistent with Dremel Junkie method, you can plainly see the RGB and clock shielded cables.

Kiwi, how are the video wires connected to the plug inside? Hopefully there's female pins like the G4. Connecting without soldering yielded and absolutely pristine video signal. Was one of the keys to the success of the G4 builds.

I'm interested to see whats inside that connector...


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Maybe you've seen this already Kiwi. Some of it's in French, but seems fairly comprehensive...

http://www.circlerranch.ca/skishop/other/g5_monitor_trans.pdf

Ersterhernd
thanks, yes I had seen this in the French form, so thanks now I can read it. To answer your previous post, I am not going to open the connector for a while, as will likely destroy it in the process. I need to get a lot of things measured (voltages) while everything still works. I tried to open the PSU tonight, to check capacitors, discovered special 'security' screwdriver is required. More waiting for things to arrive.

Edit: just read through the document, translation left a bit to be desired, Since it was for 17 inch model, wasn't as useful as it might have been, but it does have the same 30 pin TMDS connector, so cab serve as a comparison

On other note, IDF is in a few days, may get some NUC announcements, here is hoping.

Kiwi
 
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