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G4 Cube with Z77n-wifi,i3 3225

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Joined
Mar 8, 2011
Messages
102
Motherboard
EP35-DS3P
CPU
Intel Core2 DUO 775
Graphics
9600GT
Classic Mac
  1. Power Mac
Mobile Phone
  1. Android
  2. Other
This is my G4 build, running ML & Win7 in a G4 Cube with the cube's original touch sensor switch all working perfectly. See more posts and photo's below.
Hardware List:
Case: G4 Cube.
Motherboard: GA-Z77n-WiFi.
CPU: Intel i3 3225
Graphics: Integrated Intel HD 4000
CPU Cooler: Modified Intel with AMD fan.
Memory: 2x 4g Kingston 1333 low profile.
Hard Drive: 2x SSD 1x OCZ 60g 1x Liteon 124g
DVD Drive: Sony Optiarc 7643s Slot Loader
WiFi Module: Atheros 9280
PSU: DC-DC 90 watt Antec. Taken from the Antec ISK 110 case.

Software: In Dual Boot Arrangement using Chimera.

OCZ SSD: Mountain Lion OS.
LTE SSD: Windows7 OS with edited registry to "Universal time on". This needs to be done because of the dual boot arrangement causing Windows to not keep proper time. In Regedit, go to:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\TimeZoneInformation
Create a DWORD named RealTimeIsUniversal and set its value to 1



Thanks to all on this site for the information on your cube builds that I used for this project. without it I would have gone crazy trying to squeeze all the components into that miniscule case.


Cheers.
Rossi
 

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Hi Rossi,

Great to see your build. You worked very quickly, I thought you only got the Cube a few weeks ago? For me it is going to be a longer journey. Have you sorted out the issue with the acrylic case? Would like to see how you solve the touch sensor, that seems to be one of the big issues. You need to run some tests to see how the temps go, using the stock cooler should pose too much of an issue, I know many added a fan at the bottom to solve that problem.

I was actually surprised at the large void in the cube between the HDD and DVD, almost like they could have fitted a second HDD. You put two 2.5 inch drives there, which is a good use of the space.

Kiwi
 
Hi Kiwi, The build was quick because I already had the system up and going in the Antec case, and with all the different mobo types used in the cube builds on this site, it made it so much easier, I can name a few that influenced a lot of my decisions, and I hope no one takes offence if I don't mention your name, but Neil Hart, for his in depth analysis, Mini Hack, ditto, Chaos, ditto, BoomR, again ditto, there are more, also Tonymac and MacMan for the software that makes the whole shebang work like it should . I could keep going because I have read mostly all of the early builds and followed up on the later ones from MacTester57 ,Rick26 and more.

I'm sorry I didn't take more time in explaining the build, but I would only be repeating what has been said before by the early builders. I think I had a win with the Antec case by using it's dc-dc converter board and power brick, you will notice the converter in the cavity in the centre, which is perfect for cooling it by convection.

And yes, I put in 2 SSD's 1=ML and 2=Win7 for a duel boot setup.

More to go yet, but still deciding if the proxy switch is worth the hassle, or just a setup like Neil Harts switch and lights up in the top vent.....probably my hardest decision.

How is your dilemma, by that, I mean that you have the hardest choice of all...do I?? or don't I??

Cheers.
Rossi.
 
Thanks Rick, I hope you don't mind , but I also was looking at your build for influence, as well as all the others here.

Cheers.
Rossi.
 
Thanks Rick, I hope you don't mind , but I also was looking at your build for influence, as well as all the others here.

Cheers.
Rossi.

Yes i saw that Rossi, thank you for naming me!

Great that i can help other people with my build :D

Rick,
 
Hi All,

Just followed minihack's proxy switch mod, and it works like a charm, I had to sacrifice one of the RAM sticks to do it, but it still has 4gig in the other slot. I will shout it a single 8 gig stick later.

I will show some photo's tomorrow and explain the choice I took in doing minihack's simple method with the three wire's to the little plug on the sensor board going to the power switch header on the mobo, and with the other wire to the +5v purple wire on the main power connector, I pulled the original led out of the sensor and plugged a green led with cable and connector from the front panel of an old pc, I didn't have to worry about the earth connection as the dc-dc board is mounted to the chassis by an earth connection.


Cheers.
Rossi
 
Update on sensor and HDD activity light in the cube, I have left power on to the cube overnight(without the cube started) and have moved it a number of times, and put my finger close to the start icon on the top of the cube, and have had no phantom start up's. It must have actual touch on the icon to start, when the cube starts the icon glows a green halo from the mobo's front panel header. The cube is still fast with one 4 gig stick, and hangs around 40 deg C all day playing iTunes. It looks awesome on the 50inch Samsung via HDMI with sound and is the most simple hack I could think of to do, as Tony's multi beast and DSDT for the board just drive the hardware natively without any third party drivers.
If you look at the screen shot of the desktop showing "about this mac" in the first post above, you will see the cube icon and the cubes real serial number.

My next task is to find a suitable spot for the HDD activity led, "I just gotta have that HDD activity led", please don't ask why, I just havta know what's going on in there.

Details and photo's coming soon.

Cheers.
Rossi.
 
As promised, the photo's of the wiring for the proxy switch.

I chose minihacks simplified directions for the wiring of the LED which negated the use of a resistor and another connection to the main 24 pin power plug, and I just happened to have the right sized LED and cable with the header plug I robbed from an old case. I cut the two wire connections to the original Cube LED, and it just pulled out of it's socket.

Looking at the photo's below might give the wrong impression that there is more wires to the little white plug, sorry that's just bad photography, and there is only three wires, one to the purple wire on the 24 pin plug, which is the red wire in the photo and the two other wires for the power switch, and please take note of minihacks directions with this because polarity doesn't matter on a normal PC connection, but it does with the proxy switch, "positive to positive and negative to negative"

I was amazed at how the temporary double sided tape held the wires together, I could have just left it like that and not bothered to solder them.

And the last two photo's on the bottom of the post are the "OFF" and "ON" states. note the activity led in the vent.

This mod has worked out very well indeed thanks to everybody on this site and I must inform all that I have just ordered another cube!! when does it stop?
Link to minihacks wiring tutorial. http://www.tonymacx86.com/powermac-g4-cube/43924-cube-switch-modding.html
 

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Update on the cube sensor switch. I put the second RAM module back into it's slot and put a strip of double sided tape on it for insulation and put the top plate back on , It is a snug fit to say the least and it puts a little pressure on the components but nothing great enough to cause concern. My only concern now is the RAM over heating from being covered by the double sided tape. Time will tell on this. After doing this I ran geekbench again and now have a score of 8234. Whilst running GB the temp never got past 47degC.
 

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