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Asus Z690 ProArt Creator WiFi (Thunderbolt 4) + i7-12700K + AMD RX 6800 XT

dehjomz said:
Z790 works with raptor lake out of the box but if you want to use z690 with raptor lake then you must update the bios as raptor lake was not in market when the initial z690 bioses were released.

Regarding your issues with 4 sticks of DDR5 RAM at xmp, it is a widespread issue on z690/z790 and AM5. Xmp is technically overclocking, and two sticks are guaranteed to run at xmp, but 4 sticks are not. The memory controller of raptor lake seems to be better than that of alder lake, so on some motherboards you may be able to manually set the memory timings to xmp or above. But you will have to play around with the timings.
Click to expand...
@dehjomz thank you now you have clarified the memory problem is not a problem with my card but general. Now I just need to clear up the doubt of slot 2 with this processor and this bios that was hastily made 2103. I'm believing that this is nonsense from Asus in the construction of this bios and not a specific problem on my board.
 
Pin3ro said:
@CaseySJ Also tried with Monterey 12.2, same issue
Click to expand...
Let's list all the components (a) installed in the computer and (b) connected to the computer via Thunderbolt and USB.
 
CaseySJ said:
Let's list all the components (a) installed in the computer and (b) connected to the computer via Thunderbolt and USB.
Click to expand...
Ok,

Components installed:
- Asus Pro art Z690 creator WIFI
- Intel i9 - 12900K
- 2x Western Digital black SN850 (WDSS100T1X0E-00AFY0)
- Seagate BarraCuda 4TB (ST4000DM004)
- RAM: 2x Crucial 32GB DDR5-4800 (CT32G48C40U5) (Also tried with Corsar and other model of crucial)
- Power Supply Bequiet Pure Power 11 700W
- Graphic card Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6600 XT Gaming OC 8GB GDDR6 (Tested with: PowerColor Fighter AMD Radeon RX 6600 8GB GDDR6 SAME ISSUE; Gigabyte Radeon RX 6900 XT Gaming OC 16GB WORKING WELL; Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT GAMING OC 16GB GDDR6 HDMI/TRIPLE DP WORKING WELL)
-

What is connected

- Generic Logitech Keyboard and mouse
- LG 27UL650-W via HDMI or DP (SAME ISSUE) (Also tested with ASUS VC239H-W via HDMI, SAME ISSUE)
 
Rag said:
Hello.. this has been tried but it doesn't work either. The problem is in the 3740 Bios update that I shouldn't have done and now I'm not able to downgrade..
Click to expand...
Sometimes it's possible to force a UEFI/BIOS downgrade by forcing the motherboard to fail POST during boot. After this, the motherboard will try UEFI recovery process. In Asus it's call: ASUS CrashFree BIOS.
Asus motherboards will try to recover seeking the UEFI file in an USB2 drive or DVD (if you have an Optical Drive Connect to your motherboard)

Some motherboards requires the extraction of your UEFI/BIOS firmware place in a FAT formatted USB2 Drive and inserted at a specific USB port (usually with a different color like white)
In some cases in order for the UEFI/BIOS recovery to work you need to rename the UEFI/BIOS file to the name the UEFI recovery expects. This can be found in the motherboards manual but in your case I didn't find info about renaming the UEFI/BIOS file.
On Gigabyte boards you rename the file to GIGABYTE.bin

The way I trigger/force the POST fail is by turning on my motherboard without RAM.
So you can try removing your memory modules and after turning on your motherboard look closlly to your USB drive to see if it's flashing. If it's flashing wait a couple of minutes until it stops flashing. If it doesn't stops flashing then wait about five more minute just to be on the safe side before turning off your board. Then connect back again your memory modules and turn your system. Boot straight into UFI/BIOS Settings and select default settings. Then adjust all the necesarry settings that are convenient for proper functioning of macOS.

Another advantage of doing this is having two different UEFI/BIOS firmware for experimenting if your board has DUAL BOOT. Mine has DUAL Boot so I flip the switch to single boot when I want to try a different UEFI but want to keep the old UEFI version as backup.
If you have your motherboards DVD, then try booting from there or copy the file from there to your USB drive.

Hope this can help you somehow, cheers.
 
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tecnicasopr said:
Sometimes it's possible to force a UEFI/BIOS downgrade by forcing the motherboard to fail POST during boot. After this, the motherboard will try UEFI recovery process. In Asus it's call: ASUS CrashFree BIOS.
Asus motherboards will try to recover seeking the UEFI file in an USB2 drive or DVD (if you have an Optical Drive Connect to your motherboard)

Some motherboards requires the extraction of your UEFI/BIOS firmware place in a FAT formatted USB2 Drive and inserted at a specific USB port (usually with a different color like white)
In some cases in order for the UEFI/BIOS recovery to work you need to rename the UEFI/BIOS file to the name the UEFI recovery expects. This can be found in the motherboards manual but in your case I didn't find info about renaming the UEFI/BIOS file.
On Gigabyte boards you rename the file to GIGABYTE.bin

The way I trigger/force the POST fail is by turning on my motherboard without RAM.
So you can try removing your memory modules and after turning on your motherboard look closlly to your USB drive to see if it's flashing. If it's flashing wait a couple of minutes until it stops flashing. If it doesn't stops flashing then wait about five more minute just to be on the safe side before turning off your board. Then connect back again your memory modules and turn your system. Boot straight into UFI/BIOS Settings and select default settings. Then adjust all the necesarry settings that are convenient for proper functioning of macOS.

Another advantage of doing this is having two different UEFI/BIOS firmware for experimenting if your board has DUAL BOOT. Mine has DUAL Boot so I flip the switch to single boot when I want to try a different UEFI but want to keep the old UEFI version as backup.
If you have your motherboards DVD, then try booting from there or copy the file from there to your USB drive.

Hope this can help you somehow, cheers.
Click to expand...
Hello @tecnicasopr
Thanks for helping.
But the problem is not in the motherboard's BIOS, but in the Highpoint Raid 3740A card.
What I need to do is downgrade this board.
Thanks.
 
Rag said:
Hello @tecnicasopr
Thanks for helping.
But the problem is not in the Motherboard's BIOS, but in the Highpoint Raid 3740A card.
What I need to do is downgrade this board.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Maybe you can do this within Linux or DOS using a force command. But I'm not quite sure so you need to search...
 
Pin3ro said:
Ok,

Components installed:
- Asus Pro art Z690 creator WIFI
- Intel i9 - 12900K
- 2x Western Digital black SN850 (WDSS100T1X0E-00AFY0)
- Seagate BarraCuda 4TB (ST4000DM004)
- RAM: 2x Crucial 32GB DDR5-4800 (CT32G48C40U5) (Also tried with Corsar and other model of crucial)
- Power Supply Bequiet Pure Power 11 700W
- Graphic card Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6600 XT Gaming OC 8GB GDDR6 (Tested with: PowerColor Fighter AMD Radeon RX 6600 8GB GDDR6 SAME ISSUE; Gigabyte Radeon RX 6900 XT Gaming OC 16GB WORKING WELL; Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT GAMING OC 16GB GDDR6 HDMI/TRIPLE DP WORKING WELL)
-

What is connected

- Generic Logitech Keyboard and mouse
- LG 27UL650-W via HDMI or DP (SAME ISSUE) (Also tested with ASUS VC239H-W via HDMI, SAME ISSUE)
Click to expand...
@CaseySJ As it looks like only occurs with RX6600/6600XT series, there is a way to maybe fake another graphic id, so maybe that way it works well?
 
Pin3ro said:
@CaseySJ As it looks like only occurs with RX6600/6600XT series, there is a way to maybe fake another graphic id, so maybe that way it works well?
Click to expand...
I have a Sapphire RX 6600 XT in my Asus Z690-I mini-ITX system, and there’s no issue reboot after reboot.
 
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