[SUCCESS] Gigabyte Designare Z390 (Thunderbolt 3) + i7-9700K + AMD RX 580

[CaseySJ]

Sweet!! Guess the windows bootloader interference was the cause after all then.
Wiped my M2M evo, re-cloned to there, and all great.
Currently having my 2nd evo (non-plus) in the m2p slot, but will swap it out for the evo plus to see if that works.
Then install w10 and (note-to-self) make sure to remove m2p drive first.
Thanks CaseySJ, I'm real happy now

Awesome! You probably know this already, but let me restate anyway for any newcomers:

• When installing Windows 10, physically remove the Mojave NVMe SSD and physically disconnect all internal SATA drives. Set: BIOS —> Windows 8/10 Features —> Windows 8/10 WHQL.
• If you are installing Windows on an NVMe SSD, install that SSD in the top M2M slot.
• After Windows has been fully installed, install the Mojave NVMe SSD in the bottom M2P slot. Then set: BIOS —> Windows 8/10 Features —> Other OS. Reconnect SATA drives.

 

[CaseySJ]

FWIW, when I stuck in my second NVMe M2, I totally forgot to make two partitions. I just formatted to APFS and CCC cloned my other OS SSD. When I went to place the proper EFI content to the new NVMe, an EFI folder was already there. Maybe it was created during a previous boot or CCC did a really sweet job, IDK. So, it's an APFS 500GB 970 for the OS and Apps, and an APFS 1TB 970 Pro for the Vienna Symphonic, UVI, and Slate stuff because it's 99% read-only. I had to sacrifice SATA 4 and 5, but I still have 3 HFS+ 860 1TB SSDs and a few more HFS+ in a BMD Multidock II via Thunderbolt. I had some data loss issues on High Sierra on a Mini 6,2 using APFS-formatted SSDs for media. Luckily I had backups to replace the files that the OS didn't actually copy, but just "pretended" to copy. YMMV...

When we select “GUID Partition Table” in Disk Utility, it creates the EFI partition automatically. The technical specification for GUID Partition Table requires creation of an EFI partition so this is done for us in the background.

 

[wickett]

Do you by any chance have a wired mouse that you can connect just to rule out something with the overall system rather specifically with Bluetooth connectivity being the issue?

My wireless Logitech mouse continues to work while the Bluetooth isn't working.
The trackpad is working again now.

 

[wickett]

My wireless Logitech mouse works with the dongle ok

 

[loghound]

How did you get on with the Fenvi T919 card

Perhaps you already have the answer but roughly:

1. In Bluetooth settings you can enable an item in your menubar -- do that
2. Click on that while holding down alt -- then scroll down to a connected device -- you should see a lot more details including single level. Higher numbers are always better but roughly speaking:
   1. anything bigger than -50 is pretty great
   2. -50 to -75 is very serviceable
   3. less than -75 is starting to get more miserable (start to see disconnects)
   4. unusable at -90
   5. Note that the values tend to fluctuate quite a bit so you may need to read it a few times to get a sense

On my new Fenvi card, I still had poor Bluetooth power problems but when I turned off wifi (I'm hard wired) it worked much, much better. I'm honestly very confused about wifi and things like handoff and continuity. I've heard that you have to enable wifi for those features (which never made sense to me -- how would your computer know if it's a wifi connection or a wired connection?) but regardless -- after wifi off the Bluetooth worked great AND, as far as I can tell, all of my continuity features continued to work (but I didn't test it very thoroughly)

Fun Fact -- I'm sort of ' in the business' with regards to RF things -- the units the mac shows are in dBm which is dB relative to 1mw of power

dBm	Power (W)
-60	1 × 10^-9
-70	1 × 10^-10
-80	1 × 10^-11
-90	1 × 10^-12

The point of the fine table above is that when your mouse is working at -60dBm (which it will work just fine with) you are dealing with one Billionth of a watt of power -- that is not a lot of power!

 

[bartrap]

You're right -- the "anchor" function is not working properly.

Anyway, please select this spoiler:

View attachment 413330

Hi Again Casey; Hmm; I tried but I am not sure enough what to do. I prefer to only run off the internal gpu via the DP board; Am not sure about the link you send me because it enables the HDMI port I think. The moment I have the machine running over the iGPU of my i7 9700K, I will remove the MSI RX580 Card and sell it to a gamer or video editor, because I only use the computer for music apps like Logic X etc. Or do you think it is wiser to keep the system as it is with the RX580 as far as stability is concerned ?

Thanks again for your attention; attached the latest EFI I use now plus troubleshooting files.

 

[CaseySJ]

Hi Again Casey; Hmm; I tried but I am not sure enough what to do. I prefer to only run off the internal gpu via the DP board; Am not sure about the link you send me because it enables the HDMI port I think. The moment I have the machine running over the iGPU of my i7 9700K, I will remove the MSI RX580 Card and sell it to a gamer or video editor, because I only use the computer for music apps like Logic X etc. Or do you think it is wiser to keep the system as it is with the RX580 as far as stability is concerned ?

Thanks again for your attention; attached the latest EFI I use now plus troubleshooting files.

Please try the attached config.plist. If you'll be selling the RX 580 and using the iGPU exclusively, it's good to have all 3 on-board video ports enabled (the two Thunderbolt/DisplayPorts work by default). The attached file will do that.

In BIOS, set Initial Display Output to IGFX.

 

[shdwkeeper]

As far as I know, you have to use an AGDP patch solution. I think whatevergreen does it, with NvidiaFixUp kext. Or maybe just whatevergreen.

Nvidia cards need AGDP patch solutions with Mac Pro 6,1 or newer, iMac 15,1 or newer and iMac Pro 1,1 (other new SMBIOS in the future, most likely).

I’m not entirely sure to what MacOS version GTX 680 is supported.

Though, there has been a research by the developer Mieze, that AGDP breaching with NVidia cards leads to certain Power Management issues.

Maybe CaseySJ knows something more.

@CaseySJ

Thank you, I'll see if Casey has an answer to this.

 

[pianistslogic]

Awesome! You probably know this already, but let me restate anyway for any newcomers:

• When installing Windows 10, physically remove the Mojave NVMe SSD and physically disconnect all internal SATA drives. Set: BIOS —> Windows 8/10 Features —> Windows 8/10 WHQL.
• If you are installing Windows on an NVMe SSD, install that SSD in the top M2M slot.
• After Windows has been fully installed, install the Mojave NVMe SSD in the bottom M2P slot. Then set: BIOS —> Windows 8/10 Features —> Other OS. Reconnect SATA drives.

Solid advice! Reading about those M2M/W10 posts I'd just been too excited/reckless and simply installed W10 to my new 970 EVO Plus, without disconnecting the hackintosh-M2P-970 (non-plus)..
So by now, I've reinstalled 970 EVO+ into M2M running W10, 970 EVO into M2P, and random backup/library SATA SSD's to ports 1/2/3. All working great! Sorry for causing confusion 'round here. It appears as if the 970 EVO+ firmware upgrade indeed solves any issues (as long as they're not user-issues.. )

Edit: M2M vs M2P still confuses me, now fixed. hah

 

[madmax559]

My wireless Logitech mouse continues to work while the bluetooth isn't working.
The trackpad is working again now.

Logitech has their own proprietary extensions on Bluetooth
Use the receiver that came with the mouse & all your other Bluetooth devices (Apple keyboard, trackpad etc etc) will work flawlessly.
The Logitech mouse is the main culprit in my experience, just remove it from Bluetooth.