- Feb 13, 2012
- ASRock B560M itx/ac - OC 0.6.8
- GT710 - 1920x1080
- Classic Mac
- Mobile Phone
UtterDisbelief's Coffee Lake Build:
Gigabyte GA-Z370M-D3H - i3-8350K - Gigabyte RX560 2GB - Corsair LPX 16GB 3000ghz
Gigabyte GA-Z370M-D3H - i3-8350K - Gigabyte RX560 2GB - Corsair LPX 16GB 3000ghz
Slightly messy inside and needs new cables (on the way)
Gigabyte Z370M-D3H LGA1151 M-ATX DDR4 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB kit (8GBx2) 3000mhz DIMM, DDR4
Intel Core i3 8350K Quad Core CPU Retail Socket 1151, 4.0GHz, 8MB cache
Be Quiet! Pure Rock 120mm CPU Cooler BK009
Gigabyte AMD RX560 OC 2GB GDDR5 DVI VGA HDMI PCI-E Graphics Card
Crucial MX200 250GB SSD - Main O/S Drive
Western Digital 500GB SATA III Black Data Drive
ABWB 802.11AC WI-FI With Bluetooth 4.0 PCI-Express (PCI-E) BCM943602CS Combo Card For Hackintosh (MAC OS X) Airport Computers, Supports Hands-off
Pioneer DVD-RW SATA Optical Drive
Lian LI PC-A04A PC Case MATX USB 3.0 Aluminium
Corsair CX500M ATX Power Supply Semi-Modular
Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 120mm case fan (Front)
Since I finished the Kaby Lake ATX build I tried my hand at an ITX system based on a 200-series, B250 ITX board and really didn't like the experience or result at all. Too small and cramped for my taste, although I can understand why they are so popular, taking up so little room. I began planning an MATX Coffee Lake build.
For this one I went back to my favourite case - the Lian Li PC-A04A MATX - and because it is becoming harder to get nowadays had to buy one from Germany. Happily it only took a week to arrive, which gave me time to get the other parts together. MATX Z370 boards aren't exactly thick on the ground but I'm used to working with Gigabyte so chose theirs. For a CPU I stuck to my favourite again - the i3 - but for Coffee Lake there's now a quad-core version running at 4.0ghz. Sounded interesting! The 8350K is unlocked and comes without heatsink and fan so I chose a Be Quiet! BK009 Pure Rock to cover it. RAM was again another favourite but this time I went for the fetching metallic blue colour.
Hardware build was straightforward and first boot was to my Windows 10 SSD for testing purposes. Given that Coffee Lake is very recent I knew there would be headaches along the way getting macOS running smoothly. Testing all the components were working as they should was just easier with Windows.
For the macOS build I used @tonymacx86 's default guide:
Installation Guide here at Tonymacx86 to install High Sierra
... on my SSD as it covers all you need to get going. I chose to use the older HFS+ format, deciding against the new APFS. Follow the guide carefully at the point where Terminal is used to accomplish this. That reboot and re-starting the installer is easy to get wrong. If, like me, you have another drive installed as a data drive then either turn-off and disconnect it before continuing, or easier, unmount it using Disk Utility. The script might fail if there's more than one drive available. @MacMan covers this in the guide comments a couple of pages in.
To be expected the first macOS boot resulted in a black screen because of the AMD RX560. There was a bit of head-scratching here in that I needed to copy Whatevergreen and Lilu kexts to my EFI partition to enable it, but I couldn't boot and see a screen to do that! For that I needed safe-mode and in safe-mode you can't mount an EFI partition... Then I realised I could just copy the kexts to Library/Extensions instead using KextBeast. Funny how you can forget the obvious! This worked as expected.
(EDIT: See post #4 Update no.1 for a new way forward initialising AMD graphics).
Now my tip here is don't sign in to your Apple account when you're prompted to. I'd give it a miss for now.
Next to sort was USB. Copying my old Kaby Lake config.plist into the boot EFI just caused all ports to die on boot. They worked fine when I booted using the UniBeast HS installer stick. I tried all manner of kexts and edits but nothing was working. In the end I just copied the UniBeast EFI folder to my SSD drive's EFI partition. That got me booting with a functional keyboard and made a solid starting-point for the rest of the installation.
Now was time to bring MultiBeast v10.2 into play. I used it to install Sound, Network, FakeSMC and a system definition of iMac14,2.
On reboot Sound still didn't work and there were no devices except my monitor's HDMI output (which happily worked). To get around this I had to re-install the MultiBeast ALC892 option, choose Audio ID=2 and HDAS to HDEF rename tick-boxes AND, to get the sound actually coming out through the speakers, put FakePCIID.kext and it's brother FakePCIID_Intel_HDMI_Audio.kext in the EFI/EFI/CLOVER/kexts/Other folder. Both from @RehabMan .
I now needed to check serial numbers and UUIDs. As I mentioned above, I hadn't yet signed in with my Apple ID. The default serial number of the build so far is a dummy and if you alter the system definition you can change even that number. This might cause problems with your account, and require you to enter security information to unlock your ID for use. Risky in my view. It has certainly happened to me but because I had set up security questions I have been able to unlock it from the keyboard, rather than by ringing up.
Anyway, now that I had a stable system I could re-input the serial numbers etc from the SMBIOS section of my old build. These also help the configuration of iMessage and Continuity and Handoff. I was keeping the same system-definition. If you need to set up iMessage from scratch then I recommend you read the guide by @P1LGRIM here:
Another tip here - ensure you have the EmuVariableUefi-64.efi file installed in your EFI/CLOVER/Drivers64UEFI folder (use the Clover installer if not) and also the RC Scripts. This is all in @P1LGRIM 's thread but worth repeating. iMessage obviously needs NVRAM to store its setup locally.
iMessage and Continuity & Handoff are all working fine on this build.
Remember to check twice, press the button once!
Finally a couple of edits using Textedit. I'll explain:
To set the CPU power management you no-longer need to create an SSDT but can simply tick a box using Clover Configurator. It's on the ACPI tab. Go to the right side and find the pane labelled SSDT. Check - Generate Options - PluginType. Tick it.
Also on the same tab FixShutdown needs ticking to stop a bounce awake when you shutdown the PC.
I copied a dummy config.plist and initially made the edits to that using Clover Configurator to see what changes were made to the file. Then I copied just those edits into my working config.plist. Fiddly I know but the reason I did this is because it seems Clover Configurator "cleans" a lot of usually surplus code from the config. I could see a big difference in the two files. Considering the USB problem I had at the beginning I didn't want to upset the applecart. There is clearly some code I needed that might possibly be erased. Until I've spotted exactly what it is, I was being safe. Don't let that put you off using Clover Configurator, it's a great utility.
Coffee Lake motherboard/CPU specifics:
I had an annoying problem with the BIOS. My Z370M-D3H came with F3 installed. I wanted to use the "SmartFan 5" option to control the two cooling fans I have - the CPU and Be Quiet! case fan at the bottom of the front panel in front of the drives (I am not running the second fan above this. One should be enough I feel). The trouble was that although the CPU fan worked as expected, rotating around 500rpm at idle, the case fan, when in "Silent" mode, would switch up to full-speed (1334RPM) once the OS was running. Very windy and no way silent! I tried every setting there was but this problem wouldn't go away. That is until I flashed the BIOS with new version F4. That cures it.
No CPU Fake IDs are needed. Coffee Lake is now native in High Sierra (Interesting!).
The temperatures have been surprisingly good. The CPU is rated at 91W, pretty much like the older i5s and i7s so I was expecting a slight rise compared to my last dual core 4.1ghz i3. Well so far - with no gaming or intensive graphics stuff, so I can at least compare like with like, I have a CPU which hasn't yet gone above 28-degrees-C. The hottest part of the motherboard is the VRM which I've seen at 35-degrees-C. I'm sure if I punished the hardware these temps would rise significantly, but the point is my previous i3-7320 4.1ghz would run at 32+. Admittedly I've changed the CPU cooler, so maybe that's helping. Whatever the reason it's good news for a quad-core. All temps taken from BIOS.
Work to do:
As per @RehabMan 's post about Generating an SSDT for Coffee Lake, and my note above, there's no need to create an SSDT for the CPU, so my next job will be to create a proper definition for the USB ports.
What wasn't working and how it was fixed:
1) iTunes DRM video - Lilu.kext and Shiki.kext placed in EFI/CLOVER/kexts/Other EFI partition folder.
(EDIT: See post #4 Update no.1 for new developments without the need for the Shiki kext)
2) Wake from sleep - still checking ... but very short-term sleep wakes to log-in screen with no problems.
3) for the Radeon Graphics I copied the latest WhateverGreen.kext into the HS EFI/CLOVER/kexts/Other folder (along with Lilu.kext mentioned above). Eventually - to get around that annoying catch-22 mentioned above - I also put them in Library/Extensions using KextBeast.
(EDIT: See post #4 Update no.1 for a new way to initialise AMD graphics)
I'm still using System Definition iMac14,2.
So that's it so far. A powerful and quiet mackintosh based on the Coffee Lake platform.
I'll post updates as things occur or change.
Edit no. 1 : to clarify iMessage section
Edit no. 2 : Below is a picture of the BIOS temperatures after the PC had been running for a couple of hours. Ambient room at 18-degrees-C.
Still surprised by how cool this Coffee Lake hardware runs. I used Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste between CPU and heatsink.
Edit no. 3 : Changed front-panel photo now the DVD bezel door has arrived.