I used the modular cables from a Corsair PSU on Thermaltake PSU and now I think I've fried my computer!

[ibruno]

While trying to upgrade my system from Mojave to Catalina, I was finally successfully able to boot into into Catalina (yay!!), but I let it go to sleep before I had a chance to configure it properly, and I could not wake from sleep, either through the keyboard or the power switch.

As a last resort, I powered down by flipping the I/O switch on my PSU, which was my first mistake because when I flipped the PSU back on and tried to boot back up, all I got was the MB lights turning on and the fans spinning for a second or two before powering back down and then repeating.

Hoping it was the PSU and not the MB, I got a Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 650W PSU. But to save time, I connected the modular cables from my old Corsair RM650x to the new PSU and that was my next mistake! Because when I flipped the I/O switch on the new PSU, the lights on my wifi card would briefly light up and that's it. Pressing the power switch on would do nothing.

At this point I also replaced my power switch cable and at the same time finally decided to use the modular cables that actually came with the Thermaltake. But now when I flip the I/O switch on the PSU, the computer turns on by itself without having to even press the power on switch! And it doesn't really turn on; only the MB lights, CPU fan and fan at the back of the case turns on. There is no beep, no POST, the monitors stay dark and the front case fan does not turn on. Also, I am getting the same result even with the power switch cable unplugged from the header on the MB! So all of this happens just by flipping the I/O switch on the PSU.

So I finally researched if modular PSU cables were interchangeable and guess what, they are not! Now I am trying to find out what I ended up frying on my computer and if anything is salvageable. How can I find out if I fried the MB, the Video Card, the PSU, all of the above or just some of the above?

Luckily I am able to mount my HD's on my MacBook Pro via a USB enclosure, so my data is safe. The CD rom drive is also operational when the computer turns on, or at least the open/close tray button works, so I'm guessing that the Sata modular cable was interchangeable. Also the fan at the back of the case does turn on, and fan is attached to the Molex modular cable, so I'm good there too. So I just need some advice on how to find out if my problem was with the 24PIN ATX, CPU or PCI-E cable. Also any chance that the problem I'm having is simply a bad CMOS battery?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bruno

 

[deeveedee]

While trying to upgrade my system from Mojave to Catalina, I was finally successfully able to boot into into Catalina (yay!!), but I let it go to sleep before I had a chance to configure it properly, and I could not wake from sleep, either through the keyboard or the power switch.

Thanks,

Bruno

You asked for help here so I'm curious - what was the solution to get your system to boot Catalina?

 

[ibruno]

You asked for help here so I'm curious - what was the solution to get your system to boot Catalina?

I decided to start over but this time I tried a fresh install using Unibeast 10 + Multibeast 12 instead of an upgrade. I was able to get it to boot and my next step was going to be to look at the working config.plist and L/E folder and troubleshoot to see where my mistake was, but it’s a moot point now that I can’t boot up.

In the event I have fried my MB/CPU I’m going to be looking for an MB/CPU combo that fits with my existing components. It seems that your Biostar/Xeon setup fits the bill. It’s seems like a stable system? I’ve looked on eBay and the CPU is around $35 and MB $50. That’s cheaper than I what I’ve been able to find for a replacement GA-P55M-UD2 for.

Do you know how can I find out if my MB/CPU is fried?

 

[deeveedee]

I decided to start over but this time I tried a fresh install using Unibeast 10 + Multibeast 12 instead of an upgrade. I was able to get it to boot and my next step was going to be to look at the working config.plist and L/E folder and troubleshoot to see where my mistake was, but it’s a moot point now that I can’t boot up.

In the event I have fried my MB/CPU I’m going to be looking for an MB/CPU combo that fits with my existing components. It seems that your Biostar/Xeon setup fits the bill. It’s seems like a stable system? I’ve looked on eBay and the CPU is around $35 and MB $50. That’s cheaper than I what I’ve been able to find for a replacement GA-P55M-UD2 for.

Do you know how can I find out if my MB/CPU is fried?

I accidentally switched PSU cables (from another PSU) on my Biostar TH55HD MB and was lucky not to damage anything. It just failed to power on. I'm not sure how to determine whether your MB/CPU sustained any damage.

If you're going to spend the $85, I'd suggest spending it on newer hardware. My Biostar TH55HD with Xeon X3460 is rock-solid, but it's old. You should be able to find a Socket 1151 motherboard and CPU for not much more $$$. I know it's tempting to build a new system that retains use of your old hardware (like your DDR3 memory), but if you can afford the extra, your choices are better. I do have a Socket 1151 MB that takes DDR3 (ASUS Z170-P D3), but I've never tried to install macOS on it.

Sorry I can't be more definitive and more helpful.

 

[Shiitaki]

I doubt you damaged the CPU but the motherboard is probably fried. That kind of damage I would think should be visible on the motherboard. I do share the opinion that it's not worth buying parts for such and old computer. It's only a matter of time before it is abandoned by Apple/hackintosh community.

I don't know what process you went through to diagnose, but did you completely unplug the power cord to the power supply, and then reconnect and try it with the right cables being used? If you short a power supply the protection circuit will usually latch and not reset until you completely cut all power to the PSU.

 

[ibruno]

Thanks @deeveedee and @Shiitaki for the replies. Yes, I completely unplugged the PSU and tried again with all the correct cables.

I've removed all of the components except for the CPU, CPU fan, and one stick of RAM (an old stick that I had upgraded from in the past so it should be good) and only the MB and CPU cables from the PSU plugged into the MB, I get the "Phase LED Lights" and the CPU fan turning on. But no beep on post. My next step is to keep adding components until something happens.

The reason that I want to stick with older components for now is that with the Apple switching away from Intel and going with their own CPU's, I don't want to get a completely new system only to have it supported on macOS for a couple of years. In that case I may as well just get a new Mac.

In case I do need a new MB, I know that my CPU will only work with other 1156 MB's, so I would also need a new CPU. Does anyone know what the last MB that supported DDR3 memory was that was easy to turn into a hackintosh? Is a socket 1151 MB a relatively new MB?

Thanks again,

Bruno

 

[UtterDisbelief]

Thanks @deeveedee and @Shiitaki for the replies. Yes, I completely unplugged the PSU and tried again with all the correct cables.

Currently with only the PSU and one stick of RAM (an old stick that I had upgraded from in the past so it should be good) and only the MB and CPU connection from the PSU plugged into the MB, I get the "Phase LED Lights" and the CPU fan turning on. But no beep on post. My next step is to keep adding components until something happens.

The reason that I want to stick with older components for now is that with the Apple switching away from Intel and going with their own CPU's, I don't want to get a completely new system only to have it supported on macOS for a couple of years. In that case I may as well just get a new Mac.

In case I do need a new MB, I know that my CPU will only work with other 1156 MB's, so I would also need a new CPU. Does anyone know what the last MB that supported DDR3 memory was that was easy to turn into a hackintosh? Is a socket 1151 MB a relatively new MB?

Thanks again,

Bruno

I guess you've tried this already .... Disconnect from the mains power, remove the CMOS back-up battery from the board and leave alone for a while so the CMOS discharges. Re-insert the battery, reconnect power and test again.

 

[ibruno]

I guess you've tried this already .... Disconnect from the mains power, remove the CMOS back-up battery from the board and leave alone for a while so the CMOS discharges. Re-insert the battery, reconnect power and test again.

Yeah, I disconnected the power, removed the battery and also shorted the CMOS pins. But I only had the battery removed for about 2 hours max. I've read on some sites that they recommend removing the battery overnight? Does that matter?

I've also read that the computer turning on by itself (without pressing the power switch on the case) is a BIOS setting, so I'm, still hopeful that maybe my BIOS is messed up? And completely clearing the CMOS can still fix? Maybe?

 

[UtterDisbelief]

Yeah, I disconnected the power, removed the battery and also shorted the CMOS pins. But I only had the battery removed for about 2 hours max. I've read on some sites that they recommend removing the battery overnight? Does that matter?

I've also read that the computer turning on by itself (without pressing the power switch on the case) is a BIOS setting, so I'm, still hopeful that maybe my BIOS is messed up? And completely clearing the CMOS can still fix? Maybe?

You did the right thing Capacitors take time to discharge but two hours should be long enough. But I know what you mean - others say leave for longer.

The motherboard powering itself on can also be caused by a short. The ATX 24-pin power plug features a line that when shorted to earth (I believe it's an earth) powers up the motherboard. This is what the header micro-switch power-button is doing. I used this trick to keep a PSU up and running, powering a set of external peripherals instead of an actual PC.

Yes, the BIOS could be corrupt. The problem is flashing it again if it doesn't respond to the Q-Flash method. If you are able to create a self-booting USB BIOS flash stick - instructions can be found at Gigabyte and Google - I would try that.

 

[unix_fan]

I have the same P55M-UD2 board, it has occasionally gone into the same weird zombie state to me as well (cycles, fans start, then after a few seconds stop; rinse/repeat) when experimenting with new Clover settings.

Short the CLR_CMOS pins but hold it there for at least five seconds.