Contribute
Register

Asus X299 - Support

Status
Not open for further replies.
Interesting. I wonder if you can set to max mode in iCue so it remembers the settings and then manually adjust it in the BIOS? Did you connect the USB cable that your AIO came with?

I don't think the latest BIOS has anything to do with your fans not working properly.

Also based on your preliminary tests, it may seem that you might benefit from Static Pressure fans (not the same as those Noctua IPPC or whatever those fans are.) It has to be static pressure to push air through the fins of the radiator.

I used the USB cable to the pump so I could adjust the pump and fan speed in iCue. I’ll try maxing it out and seeing if I get more control over it in the BIOS.

The Noctua Industrial 2000 fans I got (haven’t installed them yet) are supposed to provide better static pressure than my current ML120’s that shipped with my h150i. I’ll have to install those (maybe tomorrow) and test some more.

Also what is Windows doing to the bootloader? It doesn't do anything.

The bootloader lives on the macOS drive and Windows boots through the bootloader.

I have bot OSs without issues for ages, I boot in both whenever I need and I set the default to macOS by blessing it in System Prefs > Startup Disk in macOS. You should set your macOS drive (UEFI) as the startup disk in the BIOS and disable all the other ones in the list, including Windows Boot Manager (or whatever it's called)

In my past experience with a Hack, it seems like when Windows triggers and updates it messes with the EFI partition (I’ve seen many documents about this too).

It’s funny, I have a 256 GB NVME installed as a scratch drive, when I did the Windows install, I physically unplugged my macOS drive and did the install on another SSD. When I was done with iCue, I physically unplugged the SSD and reconnected the macOS SSD.

Windows did an update during the install and it added its own EFI partition to my scratch drive so it tried to use it on boot up and obviously failed (as the windows drive was unplugged). So I went in the BIOS and just disabled that as a boot option and all is well. But I’ve had experiences where if I had a macos drive still plugged in, and windows does an update, it renders the macos EFI partition useless. If I dig around for a few seconds, I can link to others who had this issue as well.

I have a friend who literally installed a switch in a 5.25 bay to cut power to his MacOS SSD before booting into Windows :lolno:

He had an issue once, then fixed it and then immediately ordered the switch and said “never EVER will I go through THAT again”.
 
I used the USB cable to the pump so I could adjust the pump and fan speed in iCue. I’ll try maxing it out and seeing if I get more control over it in the BIOS.

The Noctua Industrial 2000 fans I got (haven’t installed them yet) are supposed to provide better static pressure than my current ML120’s that shipped with my h150i. I’ll have to install those (maybe tomorrow) and test some more.



In my past experience with a Hack, it seems like when Windows triggers and updates it messes with the EFI partition (I’ve seen many documents about this too).

It’s funny, I have a 256 GB NVME installed as a scratch drive, when I did the Windows install, I physically unplugged my macOS drive and did the install on another SSD. When I was done with iCue, I physically unplugged the SSD and reconnected the macOS SSD.

Windows did an update during the install and it added its own EFI partition to my scratch drive so it tried to use it on boot up and obviously failed (as the windows drive was unplugged). So I went in the BIOS and just disabled that as a boot option and all is well. But I’ve had experiences where if I had a macos drive still plugged in, and windows does an update, it renders the macos EFI partition useless. If I dig around for a few seconds, I can link to others who had this issue as well.

I have a friend who literally installed a switch in a 5.25 bay to cut power to his MacOS SSD before booting into Windows :lolno:

He had an issue once, then fixed it and then immediately ordered the switch and said “never EVER will I go through THAT again”.

There's definitely something going on with your system because I have macOS on a 1TB 960 Pro NVMe and Windows on a 1TB 860 EVO SSD and I can update each individually with no issues. I did the 1903 and 2004 update to Windows and it didn't touch a single bit in the macOS drive (Neither in the FAT32 based EFI partition).

It is correct however to install each OS independently with one/either being disconnected while it is being installed.

I run Windows updates through their Windows Update and sometimes from a USB stick using Win10 Update Tool, and it works fine. I never turn off the macOS SSD.

Definitely is strange that you're having that issue, but I guess you can simply disable the macOS drive from the BIOS? Oh wait you can't do that to NVMes thanks to ASUS hahah.
 
Definitely is strange that you're having that issue, but I guess you can simply disable the macOS drive from the BIOS? Oh wait you can't do that to NVMes thanks to ASUS hahah.

Lucky for me I only use Windows when I absolutely must, not to mention my NVME is strictly a scratch drive and my Mojave install is on a SATA 512 GB SSD.

I’ll report back after I do the fan swap- but I also want to check something else with my Titan Ridge after. I’ve had 2 and it’s still not functioning correctly. If I had more time w/ my work schedule I would have fixed this months ago :banghead:
 
Overclocking is not required, so you're welcome to use default settings as described in your manual. It takes work and expensive watercooling solutions to overclock, as repeatedly said before.

CPU_FAN is fine for the AIO, use PWM in the BIOS (I think it's AUTO by default which is ok too, but force PWM for your sake).

Set AIO to normal if it has a tool in Windows, it usually remembers those settings.

If you want more control, looking at the S36 it has a triple 120mm fan set up, it is connected to an onboard fan controller on the Radiator. If you want total control (Once again NOT required) then you can separate the 3 fans via a fan splitter (triple) and then connect to a SYS_FAN header on the motherboard to control the 3 fans separately.

When you use the CPU_FAN header on the motherboard, it will tell the pump and fans to go very high in terms of speed when it reaches certain temperatures, causing fans to spin really fast.

I really suggest anyone interested in watercooling to do more research on this subject matter before getting into it. Fine tuning fans is not an easy task....

But you should be able to set certain fan curves in CPU_FAN by default in your BIOS for now to get better results than leaving it on default.
Thanks! Do I set the switch on the S36 unit to "AUTO" or "PWM" ?
 
I am unable to boot after upgrading my X299 Sage/10g to 3203 BIOS running 10.14.6. Everything else has stayed the same. I have tried enabling/disabling all Above 4g options.

The apple progress bar fills up almost completely but will not go into OS. I can't seem to make out any significant error when running in verbose boot mode.
 
Thanks! Do I set the switch on the S36 unit to "AUTO" or "PWM" ?

PWM

I am unable to boot after upgrading my X299 Sage/10g to 3203 BIOS running 10.14.6. Everything else has stayed the same. I have tried enabling/disabling all Above 4g options.

The apple progress bar fills up almost completely but will not go into OS. I can't seem to make out any significant error when running in verbose boot mode.

Did you clear the CMOS and set up the proper settings in the BIOS including enabling Above 4G/Auto? (It must be on for SAGE/10G.

We can't tell what error you're getting with the stuck logo without seeing the error message (you need to add a -v for output).
 
PWM



Did you clear the CMOS and set up the proper settings in the BIOS including enabling Above 4G/Auto? (It must be on for SAGE/10G.

We can't tell what error you're getting with the stuck logo without seeing the error message (you need to add a -v for output).
I couldn't get the system to boot with the "kgp" default settings at all in either of the two newer BIOS'. Reverting back to 2002 and the system boots again. I did clear CMOS a bunch of times, and re-enable 4g decoding set to auto. Very weird.

Using verbose mode, it looked like the last thing loading was my RAID card and drive drivers, so I pulled the raid card and all my drives except system drive, still no boot.

Has anyone with 10980xe and sage/10g booted 10.14.6 with the newest BIOS?
 
I couldn't get the system to boot with the "kgp" default settings at all in either of the two newer BIOS'. Reverting back to 2002 and the system boots again. I did clear CMOS a bunch of times, and re-enable 4g decoding set to auto. Very weird.

Using verbose mode, it looked like the last thing loading was my RAID card and drive drivers, so I pulled the raid card and all my drives except system drive, still no boot.

Has anyone with 10980xe and sage/10g booted 10.14.6 with the newest BIOS?

you should move to Catalina 10.15.6 it’s very stable...unless something is holding you back to stay with Mojave.
 
Many of my industry specific tools do not work in catalina, yet.

@izo1 same in my scenario. It’s sad because I have Catalina on my new MacBook Pro. After 12 hours of making deals with a deity, it’s super stable...... minus one battery bug I’m working with Apple engineering on.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top