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G5 Power Hack

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minihack said:
:lol: Maybe you didn't research enough.....

Put your Snow Leopard Disk into your Windows PC, run the boot camp drivers package and Voila your Apple Keyboard eject button works to perfection. Mine works beautifully.

In case you didn't know, the Boot Camp drivers also install a really nice programme that recognises all your Mac Hard drives and allows you to read and write with them. Apple really thinks these things out.

brix were just sh*t

i will try that tomorrow.
cheers for mentioning that
 
eelhead said:
bones123 said:
bones123 said:
Looking good Gus. Am I the only one that does have an eject button on their optical drive lol

WOPPS I meant to write Am I the only one that doesn't have an eject button... LOL my bad
Do you have Windows on it?
That's the only reason I do. While I was doing my research on the build I found that Windows didn't utilize the eject button on an Apple key board.

Yeah I have W7 on it, installed on a separate HDD. Most of the time I access W7 through VMware I rarely boot to it..
 
So ive finally finished this mod. Im very pleased, and wishing i had a real need for it so i had a reason to keep it. but i dont so it shall go.

DVD drive installed.
SAM_2057.jpg


Everything installed
SAM_2059.jpg


With air deflector
SAM_2060.jpg


Side panel, quite scratched up which is a bit annoying
SAM_2062.jpg


Rear of case
SAM_2063.jpg


Shots of rear I/O
SAM_2064.jpg

SAM_2065.jpg


Front of case
SAM_2066.jpg


Next project is turning a macbook into a mini desktop!
 
Awesome Gus!!
I like it! Like your cable that's done excellent! To bad it has to go but I am really looking forward for your next project!
 
How you made the back panel? I'm a nano seconds of make the hole in the back... Now I see that you use the originals standoffs, I'm thinking: you could do the same.

I only need to adapt all the fans and cut the back... your photos for the fans let me catch the idea.
 
I glued homemade extension cables to a sheet of aluminum which is screwed to the original stand offs. Unless you really need it, i dont want to take my case apart for a photo. So if you can manage thats great but if not ill make a version to show you what i did.

PS if you have the same back panel as me, talk to zammykoo on insanely make forums(pretty sure he is also zammykoo on here too) as he makes a professional rear i/o. i would definitely buy one if i get another g5 case!
 
Hey Gus,nice mod,i'll do mine without cuts to the case (externals) and use original fans!
As i plan to start it these days,i would much appreciate if you could help me with 2 small,but very important (and slightly difficult to me, as i'm a noob in electronics),that would be:
1. Front cable mod (PW button,PW LED and USB for now,i don't have FW just yet)
2. Original fans wiring.I read here that you hooked up the big front dual fans at 12V,and HDD Tray fans (those 2 smaller up in the case) at 5V.How exactly did you do that?
Also,i ordered these wires to ease my work a bit http://www.ebay.it/itm/350544343957?ssP ... 008wt_1392
I'm looking forward to get some help from you,i'm pretty sure along the way (till my mod is finished),i'll break your balls again (sorry for that :D ). THANX!
 
alex_tzardea said:
Hey Gus,nice mod,i'll do mine without cuts to the case (externals) and use original fans!
As i plan to start it these days,i would much appreciate if you could help me with 2 small,but very important (and slightly difficult to me, as i'm a noob in electronics),that would be:
1. Front cable mod (PW button,PW LED and USB for now,i don't have FW just yet)
2. Original fans wiring.I read here that you hooked up the big front dual fans at 12V,and HDD Tray fans (those 2 smaller up in the case) at 5V.How exactly did you do that?
Also,i ordered these wires to ease my work a bit http://www.ebay.it/itm/350544343957?ssP ... 008wt_1392
I'm looking forward to get some help from you,i'm pretty sure along the way (till my mod is finished),i'll break your balls again (sorry for that :D ). THANX!
Not a problem. Front panel pinout is this.
I think I actually had all fans running at 5V in the end. Even at 5V they were still SOOO NOISY.
Personally I would not recommend using them. However, for the short term they maybe an easy and fast solution. So as you can see in these photos. The fans have 2 +V inputs, a ground and a tachometer. The "correct" pinout would be +12V, tachometer, ground, +5V. Or maybe the Voltages were the other way around. Anyway. You need to have +V going to both the power in lines. Which for the hdd bay fans is pin 1 and 4 on both. Then pin 3 is ground. As you can see in this photo. Arranged so the polarizing connecters are facing up and with the wire side facing away from your body.
008.jpg

For the center fans I used the quick disconnect plug on the central divider. And on this fan. (connecter orientated the same way) Pin 1,4,5 are all +V. Pin 2 is tachometer. Pin 3 is ground.
007.jpg

With the rear exhaust fans I actually only used 1 fan and just rewired it to run from a standard motherboard header. However, I believe that somewhere I have a document uploaded by another user which has all the fan pinouts.I'll get it for you later.
There are the pinouts. Obviously set voltage accordingly.
 

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WOW,thanks Gus,great reply,i think i got the fans part.So you're saying that even at 5 volts are still noisy...noisier than original G5 setup? Or just noisy because it's an old design?Sorry for the dumb question i just wanna understand if you compare to original G5 build or "nowadays" super-silent fans.
 
alex_tzardea said:
WOW,thanks Gus,great reply,i think i got the fans part.So you're saying that even at 5 volts are still noisy...noisier than original G5 setup? Or just noisy because it's an old design?Sorry for the dumb question i just wanna understand if you compare to original G5 build or "nowadays" super-silent fans.

I would say probably about the same as the G5 in its former glory. However, I still wouldn't recommend it. Even at 5V they make such a racket compared to standard atx fans let alone special quiet ones! People often just replace the fan unit and keep the mounting. This is a very good option if you are trying to keep the vanilla internal look.
 
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