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G5 Case Mod Layout Options
- Thread starter SPerk15
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They all work and are down to personal preference and how your modding skills are.
I would only go for option 3 if the G5 you get comes with a broken PSU. If you got a working G5 PSU then it makes most sense to sell the PSU as they are worth a bit of cash! However, if you have got a broken G5 PSU then it's not too hard to take apart an ATX supply and put it in it - most ATX PSUs (once you take out the large fan) are small enough to mount the main PCB inside the G5 PSU casing. All you then have to do is solder a few wires - the G5 PSU fans can be re-used, but I'd suggest you wire them to 5 volts instead of 12, and the live/neutral lines from your original supply socket just need to be cut and wired to the inside of the G5 socket. Make sure all is well soldered and insulated and it is a piece of cake.
Your decision also depends on your choice of how you do the back/motherboard tray.
In my first mod. I simply chose to go with the conventional type layout and keep the cooling zones the G5 was designed for. In reality, I think that is not needed as these cases can easily be well ventilated and cooled.
My vote: look at what is out there and do what you prefer the look of. Think hard too about the components you think you will need or want now and for the future. E.g. do you think 2 HDs are enough or do you want 4? Do you want to keep the perspex door and, if you do, then remember it restricts where you can put extras?
Most of all enjoy yourself.
I would only go for option 3 if the G5 you get comes with a broken PSU. If you got a working G5 PSU then it makes most sense to sell the PSU as they are worth a bit of cash! However, if you have got a broken G5 PSU then it's not too hard to take apart an ATX supply and put it in it - most ATX PSUs (once you take out the large fan) are small enough to mount the main PCB inside the G5 PSU casing. All you then have to do is solder a few wires - the G5 PSU fans can be re-used, but I'd suggest you wire them to 5 volts instead of 12, and the live/neutral lines from your original supply socket just need to be cut and wired to the inside of the G5 socket. Make sure all is well soldered and insulated and it is a piece of cake.
Your decision also depends on your choice of how you do the back/motherboard tray.
In my first mod. I simply chose to go with the conventional type layout and keep the cooling zones the G5 was designed for. In reality, I think that is not needed as these cases can easily be well ventilated and cooled.
My vote: look at what is out there and do what you prefer the look of. Think hard too about the components you think you will need or want now and for the future. E.g. do you think 2 HDs are enough or do you want 4? Do you want to keep the perspex door and, if you do, then remember it restricts where you can put extras?
Most of all enjoy yourself.
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Yes, about the layouts - those are all quite...creative?
My advice is the same, just find successful mod you like and follow the steps.
About PSU, if You have an broken G5 PSU,just repack the ATX PSU in it as described,
definitely the best solution.
About the HDD layout, no it is not important if they're fixed or not,
and just take your time - modding G5 is not as easy job as it looks.
Hope I helped and good luck!
My advice is the same, just find successful mod you like and follow the steps.
About PSU, if You have an broken G5 PSU,just repack the ATX PSU in it as described,
definitely the best solution.
About the HDD layout, no it is not important if they're fixed or not,
and just take your time - modding G5 is not as easy job as it looks.
Hope I helped and good luck!
eelhead
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I have option three 
I think you've seen my build log, it's in my sig.
PSU conversion was easy. Wiring the socket wasn't so bad.
You have to go about it n a way that you know you can handle the build. Some people will get in over there head because they try to much at once. Talk it step by step and make it an awesome learning experience. Remember you can also change the layout of the inside at anytime, it's like a puzzle
And as minihack says;
I think you've seen my build log, it's in my sig.
PSU conversion was easy. Wiring the socket wasn't so bad.
You have to go about it n a way that you know you can handle the build. Some people will get in over there head because they try to much at once. Talk it step by step and make it an awesome learning experience. Remember you can also change the layout of the inside at anytime, it's like a puzzle
And as minihack says;
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Like eel head said, its about having some fun.
I personally have a halfway made option 4. The cable rerouting isn't actually that huge a deal. when you take the shelf out, you can run a cable down the inside edge of the case next to the latch. Then glue an adapter onto the current hole. No cutting a hole at the top, and having an extra hole at the bottom necessary. Obviously most elegant solution is the option 3, but sadly my PSU wouldn't fit in. Its near silent and has huge heatsinks, so was too high. was a bit of a disappointment. Just got my mono tray through so I can complete, but think I may move onto a mac pro build. No idea what I am going to do with this case if I do.
I personally have a halfway made option 4. The cable rerouting isn't actually that huge a deal. when you take the shelf out, you can run a cable down the inside edge of the case next to the latch. Then glue an adapter onto the current hole. No cutting a hole at the top, and having an extra hole at the bottom necessary. Obviously most elegant solution is the option 3, but sadly my PSU wouldn't fit in. Its near silent and has huge heatsinks, so was too high. was a bit of a disappointment. Just got my mono tray through so I can complete, but think I may move onto a mac pro build. No idea what I am going to do with this case if I do.
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eelhead said:I have option three
I think you've seen my build log, it's in my sig.
PSU conversion was easy. Wiring the socket wasn't so bad.
You have to go about it n a way that you know you can handle the build. Some people will get in over there head because they try to much at once. Talk it step by step and make it an awesome learning experience. Remember you can also change the layout of the inside at anytime, it's like a puzzle
And as minihack says;
Hehehe... like me. Sometimes I going crazy. The MOST interesting about the mod, is learn. Really. I need to finish in two and maximum a tree week, but if I can't, well, I will try to have fun with this.
At this moment, I'm trying the option 1. I take the original standorff, and with a old mobo, I put in the back of the case with epoxi. Today I cut the back for a hole. In the future, I'm thinking maybe use the mobo tray.
I'm looking for a old PSU. My actual PSU had a connector that look ver similar to the the original black cable of the G5. I will test it.
At the end, you will see that no matter what guide you follow, always you will need to be creative and do a couple of thinks in your own way. For example, I'm in Venezuela. I need to way a lot of time for a mobo tray. Plus, here this kind of things (pcs) aren't cheap like others country, so in my case I use a old case and cut all the cables.
Abel.
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i went for option 1 to keep the case intact
options depend on psu and mobo
options depend on psu and mobo
neilhart
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Well you should think outside the box a little more.
Why use an ATX MB? You can do a lot with Micro ATX and even Mini ITX both options leave more room in the chassis.
Think 2nd generation Intel processors (faster with less heat). And you don't need all of the fans.
And why not look at 2.5" hard disk form factors? 3.5" drive take too much power and are not all that effective.
Look at an SSD for a boot drive. The OS is less then 10GBs and apps you might get another 20GBs. So if you move your data and home directories onto a HDD and use the SSD only for OS and Apps you can do with a very small fast system drive. Think SATA 3 (6GBs).
USB3 is not well (if at all) supported in OS X so don't be too distracted by the specs.
If this is an OS X only hack, then don't be distracted by the current run of video cards as you won't see a performance return on you investment (do some research on Cinebench results).
The G5 Power Mac case is a great hack platform and many have gone before and documented their efforts. Do some searches and you will find some great hacks as well as some hack hacks.
Have fun,
neil
Why use an ATX MB? You can do a lot with Micro ATX and even Mini ITX both options leave more room in the chassis.
Think 2nd generation Intel processors (faster with less heat). And you don't need all of the fans.
And why not look at 2.5" hard disk form factors? 3.5" drive take too much power and are not all that effective.
Look at an SSD for a boot drive. The OS is less then 10GBs and apps you might get another 20GBs. So if you move your data and home directories onto a HDD and use the SSD only for OS and Apps you can do with a very small fast system drive. Think SATA 3 (6GBs).
USB3 is not well (if at all) supported in OS X so don't be too distracted by the specs.
If this is an OS X only hack, then don't be distracted by the current run of video cards as you won't see a performance return on you investment (do some research on Cinebench results).
The G5 Power Mac case is a great hack platform and many have gone before and documented their efforts. Do some searches and you will find some great hacks as well as some hack hacks.
Have fun,
neil
eelhead
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If you want to do a no cut as well and you use a mATX or smaller pm me I might have an option for your back panel if your interested
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@neilhart very good tips, thank you. Now I'm reconsidering my original desire to buy a full ATX board I was just thinking of using a full because I wanted "more", no other good reason. I'll only be using a wireless card and a dual slot GPU in the PCI slots so will I be OK with mATX? I wouldn't ever be able to upgrade to crossfire though would I? It's not the end of the world, but I do somewhat want this to be easy to upgrade in the future.
@eelhead, I like the idea of no cut but I'm assuming then there is a good deal of soldering to get the rear I/O to conform to the G5 ports. And I'm such a noob that cutting the back is easier than soldering and actually doing electronics work lol. I'm actually dreading having to solder a tact switch for my optical drive because at the moment I think that is all the soldering I have to do at the moment.
That being said...I AM willing to learn
I was just thinking of using a full because I wanted "more", no other good reason. I'll only be using a wireless card and a dual slot GPU in the PCI slots so will I be OK with mATX? I wouldn't ever be able to upgrade to crossfire though would I? It's not the end of the world, but I do somewhat want this to be easy to upgrade in the future.@eelhead, I like the idea of no cut but I'm assuming then there is a good deal of soldering to get the rear I/O to conform to the G5 ports. And I'm such a noob that cutting the back is easier than soldering and actually doing electronics work lol. I'm actually dreading having to solder a tact switch for my optical drive because at the moment I think that is all the soldering I have to do at the moment.
That being said...I AM willing to learn
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