[Success] b1's "Mac Mini Killer" with macOS Mojave: i7-8700 | Gigabyte Z370N | RX560 | 16GB RAM

[partimers]

I will use a Broadcom M2 card as the one depicted in the main post, but in the meanwhile I am trying to make IOGEAR GBU521 USB dongle work. For that I may need to somehow disable the onboard Bluetooth? Right now Bluetooth shows on the menu but cannot connect to any device (I do not have the IOGEAR USB dongle plugged, so it may be picking the onboard one).

 

[b166ar]

I will use a Broadcom M2 card as the one depicted in the main post, but in the meanwhile I am trying to make IOGEAR GBU521 USB dongle work. For that I may need to somehow disable the onboard Bluetooth? Right now Bluetooth shows on the menu but cannot connect to any device (I do not have the IOGEAR USB dongle plugged, so it may be picking the onboard one).

Maybe just try to remove native WiFi card completely.

 

[partimers]

Guys, I just finished reading all 26 (currently) pages of this thread, what a great source of info. In the spirit of learning a bit more on Hackintoshing I would like to go sharing my current status and asking some questions, without willing to hijack @b166ar's nice thread, as my configuration is the same as his and the questions may be useful for others.

I am on Hackintoshing since 2009 when I did hackintosh a Lenovo Ideapad S10 Netbook (old times!) but still, quite some aspects of it are a bit obscure, specially the whole EFI, BIOS, booting piece, so, I will start shooting and hopefuly you all will help me get clarification.

Currently I just finished installing Mojave, and just run Multibeast and booted using the Unibeast USB.

I tried to boot from Hard Disk and I am getting the black screen issue (I did not yet try any fix but this is an easy one, Whatevergreen + Lilu and perhaps adjusting SMBIOS).

What strikes me is that by booting via USB, EVERYTHING seems to be working.

RX560 Graphics Card (even stopping the fans when idle), ALL USB (well I tried to insert a thumb drive in all and it mounted OK, in some of it I copied files and seemed pretty fast, looks like USB3 is working. Network is wokring finer with the needed kext from Multibeast, and Sleep/Wake seems to be pretty solid! Both when I tell it to sleep or also when the energy saver time to sleep passes by. Computer wakes with a single touch on mouse on keyboard. I do not care for Audio as I use (for years) a USB audio card that gives me zero hassle and no need for extra kexts.

That leads me to think this Unibeast is a Magic piece of software! Making it all happen as obviously booting from the HD minimally already shows the issue with the black screen.

Then, the questions.

1. How can it be that I did not (yet) use the SDST patch for USB (which seems to be the best soltuon for stability) and still, all USB seems to be working? Are they really working? Since Sleep/Wake are fine, it seems so. Any way other than copying a file to measure performance? Every USB Port is able to charge my phone.

2. Since I see the USB Unibeast drive plays a key role in booting the machine properly, but also the Main HD as network drivers are on the HD not on the USB (booting Unibeast initially results in no network) I wonder what gets loaded from USB and what gets loaded from HD so that all works (not sure if you get it, bit stupid question perhaps). Is it so that part of the compatibility is give by Clover and the EFI partition on USB and the otherr part by kexts loaded from the HD partition? From where therte? The partition's EFI or /L/E?

3. Could I try to just copy/mimic the EFI from USB to EFI of HD and it should work?

4. I run the Essentials script with the EFI from USB mounted if that would be useful. The file is attached. Any particular comment on what you see there?

Comments/Thoughts? Much appreciated any help you can give me learning a bit more of our hobby.

 

[b166ar]

As you know, I'm using a Vanilla method. All setting are perfectly matched z370n/RX5xx combo. If something will break in the future, I would know what causes a problem and how to fix it.

This method requires some knowledge and understanding how Hackintosh works. If you decided to choice Vanilla method, you can just use my EFI, that is always up to date.

I checked your EssentialsList.zip. Looks like you don't have proper Power Managment (CPU Turbo Boost) and hardware acceleration. Audio (?).

USB-ports works because you applied USB-patch. It will break as soon as next macOS 10.14.x will release.

2. Since I see the USB Unibeast drive plays a key role in booting the machine properly, but also the Main HD as network drivers are on the HD not on the USB (booting Unibeast initially results in no network) I wonder what gets loaded from USB and what gets loaded from HD so that all works (not sure if you get it, bit stupid question perhaps). Is it so that part of the compatibility is give by Clover and the EFI partition on USB and the otherr part by kexts loaded from the HD partition? From where therte? The partition's EFI or /L/E?

In Vanilla method you need to install Clover on your main drive, and copy my EFI folder to main drive EFI partition. Then copy kexts from «Kexts for LE» to /L/E.

 

[endrus]

No problem during a long sleep. I'm going to use standby=1 from now.
View attachment 355646

Hi b166ar,
First of all congrats for this Golden build; very inspirational, clean config.plist.
I rock a Z370N, i58400, Corsair 2x8GB@3200, RX570 rig that has been working w/ Mojave. However, I was looking for ways to streamline my config. I ended up using yours instead of tweaking mine. Everything works just fine and I love your minimalist approach.

I use the Logitech K750 keyboard and M510 mouse with the Unifying Receiver, and those work in the BIOS, etc. What I learned about them is the receiver does the handshake for the proprietary BT and the system detects them as "serial"?

The advantage of those devices is you can use cheaper / more available BT/WI-FI cards for Hackintosh such as Broadcom BCM94352Z / Dell DW1560 and you are not limited with your input devices.
There are numerous ways to skin a cat!

Which system monitor app are you using? Is it a custom skin in that screenshot?

 

[b166ar]

Hi b166ar,
First of all congrats for this Golden build; very inspirational, clean config.plist.
I rock a Z370N, i58400, Corsair 2x8GB@3200, RX570 rig that has been working w/ Mojave. However, I was looking for ways to streamline my config. I ended up using yours instead of tweaking mine. Everything works just fine and I love your minimalist approach.

I use the Logitech K750 keyboard and M510 mouse with the Unifying Receiver, and those work in the BIOS, etc. What I learned about them is the receiver does the handshake for the proprietary BT and the system detects them as "serial"?

The advantage of those devices is you can use cheaper / more available BT/WI-FI cards for Hackintosh such as Broadcom BCM94352Z / Dell DW1560 and you are not limited with your input devices.
There are numerous ways to skin a cat!

Which system monitor app are you using? Is it a custom skin in that screenshot?

Nice to hear that!

I had BCM94352Z before. How much did you pay for it? Native adapter costs only 18$ with adapter and antennas And ”Unlock with Apple Watch” works with this card.

This is iStat Menus.

 

[b166ar]

Added config.plist ▸ Devices ▸ USB ▸ HighCurrent=1

This allows to charge iPad and other power-hungry devices without system warnings.

 

[endrus]

How much did you pay for it? Native adapter costs only 18$ with adapter and antennas And ”Unlock with Apple Watch” works with this card.

I bought it for about the same dough.

This is iStat Menus.

Thanks for the info, I have been using HWMonitor which is free, but did not like it's basic layout. Will give a try to iStatMenus

 

[endrus]

Added config.plist ▸ Devices ▸ USB ▸ HighCurrent=1

This allows to charge iPad and other power-hungry devices without system warnings.

From my measurements the back panel USB 3.1 gen 1 sockets normally supply max 0.45A @ 4.9V whereby the same phone was able to drain 1.5A @ 4.9V from other sources. This setting has no effect on a Z370N WIFI Hackintosh due to hardware limitations...

This is what I found in the manual (Z370N); Gigabyte App Center Windows BIOS utility

GIGABYTE USB DAC-UP 2 allows you to increase the output voltage of the USB 3.1 Gen 1 ports on the front or back panel to strengthen the stability of your USB device(s).

• Normal: Keeps the original output voltage.
• Disable USB bus power: Disables the power of the USB connectors. High-end audio players may connect their own external USB power source.
• Voltage Compensation +0.1V: Adds 0.1V to the original output voltage.
• Voltage Compensation +0.2V: Adds 0.2V to the original output voltage.
• Voltage Compensation +0.3V: Adds 0.3V to the original output voltage.

But nothing about USB output current which supplies the juice for power hungry gadgets...

 

[b166ar]

From my measurements the back panel USB 3.1 gen 1 sockets normally supply max 0.45A @ 4.9V whereby the same phone was able to drain 1.5A @ 4.9V from other sources. This setting has no effect on a Z370N WIFI Hackintosh due to hardware limitations...

This is what I found in the manual (Z370N); Gigabyte App Center Windows BIOS utility

GIGABYTE USB DAC-UP 2 allows you to increase the output voltage of the USB 3.1 Gen 1 ports on the front or back panel to strengthen the stability of your USB device(s).

• Normal: Keeps the original output voltage.
• Disable USB bus power: Disables the power of the USB connectors. High-end audio players may connect their own external USB power source.
• Voltage Compensation +0.1V: Adds 0.1V to the original output voltage.
• Voltage Compensation +0.2V: Adds 0.2V to the original output voltage.
• Voltage Compensation +0.3V: Adds 0.3V to the original output voltage.

But nothing about USB output current which supplies the juice for power hungry gadgets...

I completely forgot that I have USB voltmeter/ampermeter somewhere, so I can check too... My fault. But system warning is gone, even if it still charges iPad slowly.