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The everything works Asus Z390-I Gaming * i7-8700K * SAPPHIRE NITRO+ Radeon RX Vega 64 Build

I can barely believe it but...

I got it to work !

Since my last post, I was again stuck with no Bluetooth detected in macOS, with BrcmFirmwareData.kext instead of BrcmFirmwareStore.kext

Well, this is exactly what I did :
- restored BrcmFirmwareStore.kext instead of BrcmFirmwareData.kext
- plugged and booted on Windows drive
- de-activated and re-activated the Bluetooth module inside Device Manager in Windows
- paired the Bluetooth headphones again
- rebooted inside the Mojave drive
- Bluetooth now detected and firmware patched correctly
- Bluetooth headphones detected and paired !

To whoever was stuck on Bluetooth like me, it CAN work

I am going to continue on activating the rest (Continuity etc...) but this is a huge leap forward for me

Thanks to all who helped me and hopefully my posts help someone else
 

Attachments

  • Bluetooth patched.png
    Bluetooth patched.png
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I can barely believe it but...

I got it to work !

Since my last post, I was again stuck with no Bluetooth detected in macOS, with BrcmFirmwareData.kext instead of BrcmFirmwareStore.kext

Well, this is exactly what I did :
- restored BrcmFirmwareStore.kext instead of BrcmFirmwareData.kext
- plugged and booted on Windows drive
- de-activated and re-activated the Bluetooth module inside Device Manager in Windows
- paired the Bluetooth headphones again
- rebooted inside the Mojave drive
- Bluetooth now detected and firmware patched correctly
- Bluetooth headphones detected and paired !

To whoever was stuck on Bluetooth like me, it CAN work

I am going to continue on activating the rest (Continuity etc...) but this is a huge leap forward for me

Thanks to all who helped me and hopefully my posts help someone else


That’s about what I had to do....weird right?
 

ModMike's TEWB (The Everything Works Build):
Asus ROG Strix Z390-I Gaming- i7-8700K - SAPPHIRE PULSE Radeon RX 580 8GB


”..worked like a charm, first time out of the box! This is the single most
painless hackintosh experience I've had so far. All up and running in 10.4.4.”

snaremv17


View attachment 395481

All-Star Hackers recognized for their contribution and testing View attachment 394685

IGPU

@snaremv17 - Z390-E, I7-i5-9600K


DGPU
@aztlan78 - MSI RX-560, i5-8400 View attachment 394685

@frfkevin - Sapphire RX-590 Nitro+, i9-9900k

@joetgt1 - RX 590, i5-9600K

@Kridoofus - Vega 56, i5-9600K

@liyawolf - Vega 56, i5-9600K

@ModMike - Sapphire Pulse RX-580, I7-8700K

@Monkey303 - Gigabyte RX 560, i7-8700K View attachment 394685

@pekopeko - RX 580, i9-9900K

@saik13 - Sapphire Vega 64, i9-9900K View attachment 394685

@ski4evr - Sapphire Pulse RX-580, I7-8700K

@sorob - Sapphire Pulse RX-580, I7-8700K

@t77Hack - RX 580, i7-8700K


And dozens more!



Incompatible Components

Desperate guide surfers hoping to fix their install click here!

Please read the guide carefully and update your profile before asking for help!


Contents
Incompatible Components
Components
Peripherals
Already Owned
Comments
The Build
Recommended Utilities
What Works
Keeping Your System Updated
Repairing Your Current Install
Benchmarks


Incompatible Components
There are a few components that are incompatible with Hackintoshes:
  • Samsung EVO Plus SSDs
  • XFX graphics cards - Some characteristic of their VBIOS freezes the installer and causes kernel panics. Fortunately flashing a compatible PowerColor BIOS makes it fully compatible

Components
Asus - ROG STRIX Z390-I GAMING Mini ITX Motherboard
http://https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM57LVH/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Thermaltake - Core P1 TG Mini ITX Tower Case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFW9W43/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07598VZR8/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

OEM Dell Wireless DW1560 802.11ac Broadcom BCM94352Z M.2 NGFF WIFI Card
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X6J4NBY/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

DEEPCOOL Gamer Storm Captain 240 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LQC77K/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

SAPPHIRE PULSE Radeon RX 580 8GB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ6FMF8/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Samsung - 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 SSD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN217QG/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

WD Black NVMe M.2 2280 500GB PCI-Express 3.0 x4 3D NAND Internal Solid State
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR9FV1C/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTDEYHU/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Thermaltake - Toughpower Grand RGB 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4C39AR/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Enermax - T.B. RGB (6-pack) 47.53 CFM 120mm Fans
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078LQC9Z2/?tag=tonymacx86com-20


Peripherals
Logitech Craft Advanced Keyboard with Creative Input Dial
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0768LTVCQ/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

ROCCAT ROC-11-502-AM Kova - Pure Performance Gaming Mouse, Black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018K00ZZG/?tag=tonymacx86com-20

Mackie CR4BT CR Series Channel Studio Monitor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015U623GW/?tag=tonymacx86com-20


Already Owned
Seagate Mobile ST2000LM007 2.5in 6Gbps 5.4K RPM 512e SATA HDD

LG 29UM69G-B 21: 9 Ultrawide Full HD IPS Gaming Monitor-29 Screen LED-LIT

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y634VP9/?tag=tonymacx86com-20


Comments

This build is dedicated to @pastrychef for his tireless help and bottomless patience
As a veteran 90's clone PC builder that drifted into the comfortable embrace of Apple hardware, I became dismissive of custom builds. That all changed when my friends and I started experiencing catastrophic failures of our expensive Apple hardware.

Fed up of anemic and expensive hardware I could no longer trust, I endeavoured to put together a powerful OSX desktop using an old Mac Pro cheese grater tower. I went so far as buying one, then having to cancel the same day when I found out that the old battle ax was the wrong model. The more I looked, the less worthwhile the whole Mac Pro proposition became.

Having built a Hackintosh about 7 years ago and determined to stay with OSX, I started down what I hoped would be a familiar path. I was quickly overwhelmed and nearly gave up but the moment I saw the Thermal Take Core P1 case, I was inspired to build a wild mini ITX rig that would feature a custom water loop.

The system became the centrepiece around which I built a slick workspace that includes a standing desk, awesome chair, and cool peripherals that stroke my sense of tech aesthetics and function. After 10 years of working from home, I felt I deserved something better than old 1990s era desks and chairs.


The Build
Case
The Core P1's open industrial design is extremely compelling visually. I never get tired of looking at it, you could say it was the case that launched a thousand dollars worth of purchases. It's available in black or white.

View attachment 390786View attachment 390787

Wire management is excellent and it's a really flexible case to work with. There is a ton of place to pass wires and hide them on the other side of the case:

My only complaint is that it only accepts a Mini ITX board, which it is too big for. They could have easily made it shorter and narrower. As soon as I finish my custom water loop, I plan to shorten the glass support studs as much as possible to give it a narrower profile.

The coolest thing, is they cater to vMakers! Seeing as I have a 3D printer and the goal of this build was to design parts in CAD, it seemed like a match made in heaven for me.

Motherboard
I was concerned about Z390s not being Hackintosh validated, but buying a Z370 motherboard with the Z390s around the corner was out of the question. As a life long tech enthusiast, I was used to waiting for the next gen products to be released before I would buy. This worked to my advantage because I was able to plan extensively and acquire parts when they came up on sale.

Determined to keep the physical size small, I decided on a mini-ITX board, but true to form, I would accept no compromises. Then reality hit me. After a frank evaluation of my needs, I realized I would never have more than 1 graphics card and that anything over 16GB of memory was a waste for my use case. As a certified Asus fanboy (no idea why) I settled on the Asus Z390-i Gaming. It's jewel-like high tech look, 3 M.2 slots (2 for SSD and one for a WiFi card) and well equipped rear panel just reeks of cool.[

View attachment 390793View attachment 390262

CPU
I am so ENRAGED at Intel's pricing that I cheer AMD every time they hand Intel their asses. I guess I hope they will force Intel to lower their prices. I just couldn't morally stomach the asking price of the 9900K so I ended up with a very respectable 8700K. I'm glad I did because if you look at my Geekbench scores below, you can see how well it keeps up. Especially when you consider I wasn't doing anything other than CAD and some light gaming. I will definitely upgrade when Intel comes to it senses.

Cooling
The case is built to accept a 240mm radiator for water cooling. If you have no intention of water cooling the CPU, you will end up with a big empty space in front and this may not be the best case for you.

I plan on installing a super custom loop and over specked radiator but it is taking me forever to assemble the components. Seeing as I wanted to get up and running, I looked into AIOs and was very surprised to find an affordable solution from DEEPCOOL. I absolutely love the kit and ended up getting the kit for close to what a premium Noctua air cooled solution would cost me.

I will update this post with a pic of my final config but here is an idea of what I am going for, except I will be using red coolant.

View attachment 390772 View attachment 390902

Choose carefully if you go the DEEPCOOL route because there are several options available from. I went with the red LED model because I was planning on using different fans and was planning to replace it with a custom loop. There are several packages that include an RGB Aura sync compatible package with illuminated fans, and even a full addressable RGB package. The coolest thing is that you can plug the pump into the AIO header on the motherboard and read the pump speed!

View attachment 390808

Speaking of fans, aesthetics are critical to me. After much deliberation, I got the Enermax T.B. RGB fan pack. Why the deliberation you ask? From an aesthetic point of view, I knew they were the ones the moment I saw them. The outer light rings and black center makes them look incredibly clean and futuristic. Reviews were very positive but SP was a little low and several Newegg reviews reported bearing failures with would fail in a few weeks. I took a gamble and so far too good.

The one thing about these fans I don't like is the hub. When you use the included hub, the motherboard cannot control the fan speed as a function of CPU temperature. You need to preselect the speed from the remote which is very inconvenient. I may hack up the wiring to bypass that limitation, but even then there is no yellow wire for RPM so you can't monitor them. I know that's a lot of concessions to make for aesthetics and I may eventually go another route if I can't mod them for speed control.

View attachment 390775 View attachment 390776

Graphics card
Pick a card, any card. Again, I was anxious to see what was coming so I bought a Sapphire RX-580 8GB card to tide me over until the new AMDs were released. I was all for the Radeon VII but the current prices of used Vega 64s are sorely tempting. I am still debating but knowing me, I will get a Radeon VII the moment they are supported. By the way, I could care less about heat since I have an open case AND I will be water-cooling the card.

Memory
Nothing is more boring to look at or buy than memory unless you get G.Skill Trident RGB modules that is. Memory is stupidly expensive for no reason other than price fixing. Rage in check, I chose 3200s as the best bang for the buck.

View attachment 390800

Drives
This is a tough one. The Samsung 970 EVO is so venerated I bought it without researching other options. It's a great drive to be sure, but also quite pricey. After finishing the OSX part of my build, I needed a 500GB SSD for the Windows side. As I was up and running I took time to evaluate other options, eventually deciding on the next generation WD Black NVMe M.2 3D NAND SSD. Not only does it perform just as well as the EVO 970, but it's also substantially less expensive.

View attachment 390815 View attachment 390814

Power Supply
I was getting tired of researching everything so I just caved and got a Thermal Take Grand RGB because it was on sale and Aura compatible. I paid ridiculously low $59 after rebate during Christmas. I am delighted with the quality and included cables, which I believe I can take apart and sleeve. Rebate is a little slow to arrive, but I did get confirmation it would get here by March 10th, 2019. You might be interested to know I bought it on November 22, 2018. Not complaining, just saying.
View attachment 391230 View attachment 390797 View attachment 390807


WiFi & Bluetooth
We are an exclusively Apple family so it was critical that the rig delivers the Apple experience. By pure dumb luck, I bought a used OEM Dell DW1560 M.2 card. What a coup that was! Not only does EVERYTHING work but the Dell DW 1560 is a drop in replacement for the Asus factory installed WiFi card. Here they are side by side:

View attachment 390261
Asus Intel Wifi ---------- Dell DW1560

The swap wasn't very hard but did get a little fiddly at times. The end result was definitely worth it because I ended up with OEM fitment, operation, and look.

Peripherals
The peripherals were as important to me as every other aspect of the build.

After much perusing and pondering, I picked up a Logitech craft keyboard on sale. I absolutely love this keyboard. I hate mechanical keyboards with their crazy travel and clickity clackity racket but finding a good slim profile keyboard is a chore. Most are made for travel and the Apple one just wasn't doing it for me anymore. The only thing I don't like is that it is wireless, uses a lot of power, and needs to be charged every few days. I may end up getting a nice thin USB-C cable and just leave it plugged in.

View attachment 390799

For the mouse, I choose a Roccatt Kova corded mouse. It was such a revelation in mouse technology compared to my 8-year-old Microsoft optical mouse. All I can say is wow, it's super programmable in Windows, remembers it's settings in OSX, fast for gaming, and feels great. The RGB looks awesome too!

View attachment 390802 View attachment 390803 View attachment 390801

I rounded this out with some Mackie CR4 studio speakers (still need to paint the rings red and swap LED for a red one) and a nice Ergotron adjustable arm.

View attachment 390806View attachment 390805


Methodology
Before we start, it might be a good idea to discuss my heretical approach. I only install kexts in /EFI/Clover/Kexts/Other and I am a huge fan of Port Limit Removal Patches. Heresy you say? Consider this:
Lilu & WhatEverGreen (WEG) have drastically changed Hackintoshing by eliminating many kexts, some of which may not have been injectable.

The arguments put forth apply ONLY to this guide. If your system needs custom un-injectable kexts the following does not apply.
  1. The one and only reason cited for not installing kexts in /Others is because it “could” violate something claimed to be “Protected Memory Space”. This is not even a thing

    i. I searched "Protected Memory Space" on Apples developer site and it does not exist anywhere as a term or concept
    ii. Kexts by their very nature must be loaded into kernel space and are therefore not subject to OSX memory management! Even if "Protected Memory Space" did exist, the main reason cited for doing this is invalid​
  2. Apple does recommend that 3rd party kexts be installed in /Library/Extensions but that’s for officially sanctioned, developed, and signed kexts, which ours are not so why break SIP?
  3. Even if the above did apply, OSX cannot manage kexts critical to booting. Lilu & WhatEverGreen (WEG) must be loaded before OSX for it to properly load its plug-ins and boot OSX
  4. WEG developers themselves instruct users to install WEG in EFI/Clover/Kexts/Other
  5. Lilu plug-Ins make up the majority of the plug-ins we need. Guess where they recommend they be installed?
  6. FakeSMC is a critical kext that must be injected (meaning loaded before OSX) and should be in /Others.
  7. That leaves 4 kexts and the SMC sensors that could live in /Library/Extensions. But if they can all be injected, why bother?
  8. Clover Configurator’s Kext installer is a great maintenance tool. It tracks nearly every and installs them in /Other by default, which implies that’s where they should go
  9. Rehabman, the developer of networking kexts, states that his kexts can be injected. In fact, the BrcmFirmwareData.kext is designed to be injected
  10. Installing kexts in /Others makes debugging very easy. If there is an issue with a kext installed in /L/E, then you can’t boot the system which makes repairs and testing very difficult. If everything is in /Other, you simply boot with a USB FAT32 drive that has your EFI on it
  11. Keeping OSX free of Hackintosh kexts lets you enable SIP mode and run as securely as an OEM Mac
  12. Putting everything in one shareable EFI folder vastly simplifies installation
  13. Putting everything in the /Other folder eliminates the need for kext installation and permission repair tools
  14. Pastrychef, who has helped hundreds of people, stated that moving kexts to /library/extensions has never helped solve one single issue he has come across. See what people think and do in his poll
Summary:
  1. The term or concept of "Protected Memory Space" does not exist in Apple's developer documentation
  2. WEG developers are unanimous in their position that kexts should be installed in /Other
  3. rehab man says it’s fine to inject them.
  4. Putting them in /Other simplifies maintenance and enables SIP.
Conclusion: All injectable kexts belong in Clover's /Other folder.
A lot has been written about the need for a custom SSDT to stay within Apples 15 port limit. Then I came across this:


After reading this I immediately removed my custom SSDT and applied a Port Limit Removal Patch (PLRP). I immediately regained full speed use of all my ports and have not had a single problem. Need more?
  1. Judging by the number of posts on the subject, custom SSDTs are one of the most difficult things for new builders to understand and create
  2. The 15 port limit sacrifices functionality. I completely lost USB 3.1 Gen 1 and USB 3.1 Gen 2 functionality on all ports as well as USB 2 compatibility on a front port
  3. Proponents of custom SSDTs point to the fact that they will keep working after an OSX update. This is true but one PLRP lasted from 14.1 to 14.3. While a new one was needed for 14.5., so what? Clover or any other part of our software almost always needs updates to keep up with OSX upgrades
  4. PLRP patches are typically released quickly. I found a PLRP one day after 10.14.4 was released
  5. If you can’t find a patch after an upgrade you can always go back to a custom SSDT, so why deprive yourself of functionality until then?
  6. I compared OSXs enumeration of my USB ports using Windows 10 on the same machine. It was a perfect match
  7. I enjoy full functionality and had zero issues using a PLRP
If you still insist on crippling your USB functionality, or in the event that a PLRP is not available after an update, I’ve attached a custom USB SSDT created by @DDMac. I personally checked the assignments and it is as perfect an SSDT as you will get for the Asus Z390-I.

The typical methodology starts with building an installer, installing Mojave, then using MultiBeast to finish up. Using my approach, you create a boot disk, install it, and you're done. Still not convinced? Fair enough, here is my 15-minute challenge to you:
  1. Format a USB drive using FAT32. Any small drive will do
  2. Select the correct EFI found at the end of the post and copy it on to the drive See below to choose
  3. Set up your BIOS as described and set the boot device to UEFI (name of your USB drive)
  4. Boot
How easy was that?


Installation
Well, what are you waiting around for? Let's get started, but first, a simple request:

I have about 120 hours invested in this guide. I don’t ask anything in return except that you support the site and take a minute to let me know how it worked out for you. Just a simple post in the thread saying “Hi, used the guide and everything works” would be great. Thanks!

If you find any discrepancies, please let me know so I can update the guide.

The Dell DW1560 WIFi & Bluetooth card is needed for full Apple Continuity and Messaging functionality and perfect fitment. The only cards that are consistently proven to work come directly from Dell, or from used Dell laptops. Most vendors sell knock offs so be sure you can return it cannot get it from Dell.
  1. An original Dell DW1560.
  2. A small Phillips (star) screwdriver
  3. A plastic pry tool like a guitar pick or the ones used to open iPhones. A sharpened popsicle stick can also work in a pinch. Try to avoid using a metal bladed screwdriver to avoid mechanical damage
Procedure:
  1. Remove the 4 black screws under the motherboard that secure the large rear grey metal heat sink. Remove the heat sink and put aside

    View attachment 396482

  2. Remove the 2 silver screws under the motherboard that secure the WiFi module
  3. Use your pry tool to remove the spring clips holding the IO shield to the 2 outside ports by sliding the internal tab towards the front of the board. Don’t worry, it has a hinge and will not bend

    View attachment 396479

  4. Disengage the clips from the heat shield and remove it
  5. Remove the module by carefully pulling it up and out of its M.2 CNVi connector

    View attachment 396481

  6. Remove the module side screw that secures the front half of the RF shield

    View attachment 396483

  7. Slide the front cover up and completely remove it, you may need to detach the rear sticker a little

    View attachment 396480

  8. Use your pry tool to pop off the antenna connectors. Mark the rear wire with a piece of tape to remember where it goes

    View attachment 396478

  9. Remove the old module being careful not to tear the small sponge spacer
  10. Move the sponge spacer to the new card and place in RF shield
  11. Carefully connect the antennas. The connectors are very finicky so make sure they click in place, being careful not to crush them by applying to much pressure. When they click in place, use your pry tool to push them in to make sure they are fully seated
  12. Repeat the process in reverse to assemble
Huge thanks to @Silentone84 for validating instructions and taking pictures!


Bios Configuration
  1. Plug your monitor into your video cards DisplayPort to avoid graphics issues. You can use HDMI if it's all you have
  2. Start your machine and use 1 of these methods to get onto BIOS during boot:

    a) Rapidly tap the delete key
    b) Rapidly tap the F2 key (some keyboards may need to have the Function key held down)
    c) Press and hold the Function key while rapidly tapping the Backspace key​

  3. Check the BIOS version and update it if it is not the latest one
  4. If you have previously set your BIOS, it would be best to do a CMOS reset by shorting the 2 pins on the front left corner of your motherboard. Please se instructions for complete details
  5. In the main screen middle left, set X.M.P. to Enabled
  6. Advanced Items > CPU Configuration > Intel (VMX) Virtualization Technology > Enable - Absolutely required for Parallels
  7. Advanced Items > System Agent (SA) Graphics Configuration > Primary Display > PEG (leave on auto if you don’t have a separate graphics card)
  8. Advanced Items > System Agent (SA) Graphics Configuration > IGPU Multi-Monitor > Enabled for DGPU, Disabled for IGPU
  9. Save and reboot to activate the RC6 and DVMT settings
  10. Advanced Items > System Agent (SA) Graphics Configuration > RC6(Render Standby) > Off - This settings disables a power saving feature that could potentially crash the system
  11. Advanced Items > System Agent (SA) Configuration > Above 4G Decoding > Enable
  12. Advanced Items > System Agent (SA) Graphics Configuration > DVMT Pre-Allocated > 128
  13. Advanced Items > USB Configuration > XHCI Hand Off > Enabled
  14. Boot Menu > Boot Option 1 > UEFI USB installer drive (or whatever you named it, UEFI will be automatically prepended)
  15. Exit > Save Changes

    There are few things you can tweak to eliminate ugly boot graphics and make BIOS menus easier to navigate:

  16. Boot > Boot Configuration > Boot Logo Display > Disabled
  17. Boot > Boot Configuration > Post Report > 1 Sec
  18. Boot > Setup Mode > Advanced

    I love this next feature because it allows you to save your BIOS settings so you can play around without having to wipe them and start over.

  19. Tools > Asus User Profile > Profile Name > OSX (or whatever you like)
  20. Tools > Asus User Profile > Save to Profile > 1 (hit enter to save)

Installing Mojave
  1. Insert a 16GB or larger USB drive in your Mac
  2. Open /Applications/Utilities/Disk Utility and select the USB drive in the left panel
  3. Click the Erase button
  4. Name the drive USB, you can rename it later if desired
  5. For Format: choose OS X Extended (Journaled)
  6. For Scheme: choose GUID Partition Map
  7. Click Erase then Done
  8. Download Unibeast for Mojave
  9. Download the Mojave installer from the app store
  10. Run UniBeast and select the USB drive, Mojave, and UEFI. Leave everything else blank and click continue to create the installer. This can take a long time, so be patient
  11. If you have a separate graphics card (DGPU), download DGPU-EFI.zip attached to this post and extract. If you are only using onboard graphics, download the IGPU-EFI.zip file attached to this post and extract.
  12. Delete the EFI folder in the EFI partition of the USB installer drive you created with UniBeast
  13. Copy the EFI folder you downloaded onto the EFI partition of the USB installer drive
  14. Move your USB drive to the computer you want to set up
  15. Boot and choose Installer as boot disk from the Clover menu
  16. Install Mojave.
    It looks like the black screen hang during install has been resolved. If you do get one, make sure the activity light is not flashing and manually restart the system. The system will restart and the install will continue normally. This could happen up to 3 times.
  17. Download, extract, install and Clover Configurator
  18. Click on Mount EFI under tools
  19. Mount the EFI partitions on the USB drive and on your system drives EFI partition
  20. Copy the EFI folder from the USB drive's EFI partition to the EFI partition on your system drive
  21. Eject the USB drive, reboot, and enter your BIOS
  22. Set the 1st boot drive to your system drives UEFI partition. It will be pre-pended with UEFI
  23. Boot and check that your WiFi and Bluetooth work
The provided EFIs have all the kexts you need. Do not use MultiBeast, KextBeast, etc. to install kexts in /Library/Extensions or you will break your install.


Configuring Continuity
  1. If you are signed into to iCloud, log out
  2. Start Clover Configurator and select Mount EFI in the middle of the left pane
  3. Select the EFI partition to mount in the bottom section, you should only have one
  4. Click on the home icon in the bottom left corner
  5. Select config.plist. You have now loaded the config and can make changes
  6. Click on the SMBIOS tab of Clover Configurator
  7. Click on Generate New under the System header
  8. Click on Check Coverage under the picture of the iMac on the right side
  9. You will be brought to the apple site, complete the Captcha
  10. If everything worked properly, you will get the message
We're sorry, but this serial number isn't valid. Please
check your information and try again.

Don't panic, this is good! If you get any other message confirming the warranty is still valid or expired, that means that the serial number already exists. Generate a new serial number and try again.
  1. Once you get a valid serial number, click on Generate next to SmUUID
  2. Save the config
  3. Reboot
  4. Log in to iCloud
Note: I originally followed this guide but some of the information may be outdated. Specifically, I didn't have an ethernet driver connected and was able to easily configure Continuity. Secondly, Clover Configurator seems to generate serial numbers based on the platform ID so the validation step described in the guide is unnecessary.

If you previously attempted to activate continuity and this guide does not work, read this guide meticulously and follow the instructions at the beginning.


Recommended Utilities
  1. Clover Configurator - Amazing configuration, maintenance, and updater tool. You should have already downloaded it as part of install.
  2. HWMonitorSMC2 - Very functional menu bar utility that monitors system temps, frequencies, GPUs, etc.
  3. Hackintool - Incredible diagnostic and patching tool. Be sure to read the guide very carefully!

Everything Works
  1. Continuity:

    - Handoff
    - iMessage
    - Continuity Camera
    - Universal Clipboard
    - Instant Hotspot
    - Air Drop
    - iPhone Cellular Calls
    - Auto Unlock
    - Apple Pay​
  2. Sleep (fans and RGB LEDs included)
  3. Power Nap (sleep with background operations such as Time Machine)
  4. Wake
  5. Audio (select internal speakers)
  6. Ethernet
  7. Bluetooth
  8. WiFi
  9. All USB and USB 3.1 ports
  10. Nightshift (no kexts required)

Keeping Your System Updated
There are frequent updates, especially when new boards or chipsets are introduced. Lilu and WhatEverGreen are some of the most important kexts required. They have also replaced or combined most of the older kexts.
[Updating Clover
  1. Launch Clover Configurator
  2. Click on Mount Partition in the left-hand panel
  3. Click on the Home icon
  4. Select config.plist
  5. Click on Install/Update Clover in the left panel
  6. Click on Check Now in the bottom right corner
  7. On the right middle of the screen you will see: Installed Revision
  8. At the top you will see: Revision to install
  9. If the Revision to install is higher than Installed revision, click on Package in the middle of the screen
  10. Click on Download in the right bottom corner
  11. Run the installer
Updating Kexts
  1. Click on OS Version in the top right-hand corner and select Other in the drop down
  2. Your installed kexts will appear in the bottom right pane
  3. Click on each kext and the version will appear in the left pane
  4. Compare to the version in the top panel
  5. If the version in the top is higher, select the Kext by clicking in the box to it's left in the top panel
  6. Click on download


Repairing Your Current Install
Disclaimer: This guide breaks with standard methodology. Please read the Methodology section and The Great Kext Schism spoiler carefully.

Many of you reading this guide have already built your system and are having issues because of conflicting and obsolete advice on patching, what kexts to use or where to install them. The following guide should help resolve a wide range of issues:
1 - Replace your EFI
  1. Download the appropriate EFI file at the end of this post and unzip
  2. Launch Clover Configurator
  3. Click on Mount Partition in the left-hand panel
  4. Open Finder and select EFI
  5. Delete the EFI folder in the partition
  6. Copy the downloaded EFI folder you downloaded into your EFI partition
2 - Clean Kext folders
  1. Launch Clover Configurator
  2. Click on Kext Installer in the left pane
  3. Click in the box next to OS Version in the top right corner and select Other
  4. Your current list of kext will be displayed in the bottom right pane
  5. Navigate to your Library/Extensions folder and delete any Kexts that appear in step 4
  6. Navigate to your System/Library/Extensions folder and delete any Kexts that appear in step 4
3 - Repairing Kext Permissions

  1. Run Kexts Utility
  2. Reboot


Benchmarks

View attachment 392696 View attachment 394575


View attachment 394571


EFI version 2019.04.10.2
Hi OP

I have the exact motherboard, what bios version do you have installed?
 
That’s about what I had to do....weird right?

Crazy !

I wish someone could explain to me why it's like that but I am scared that I probably won't understand ;-)

At any rate, I will content myself with getting this hackintosh working perfectly
 
I'm a little confused.

I have the exact same motherboard. However, I'm using the iGPU.

Followed the OPs clover installer and used his EFI folder.

I can install Mojave, up until the installer say "2 minutes remaining", then the installer hard reboots and that doesn't look right.

After the reboot, I select install Mojave from my internal SSD, not the USB drive

The installer gets to %12 and reboots.

I then get stuck in this cycle.

Not sure what's going on, anyone having the same issue?
 
Last edited:
I'm a little confused.

I have the exact same motherboard. However, I'm using the iGPU.

Followed the OPs clover installer and used his EFI folder.

I can install Mojave, up until the installer say "2 minutes remaining", then the installer hard reboots and that doesn't look right.

After the reboot, I select install Mojave from my internal SSD, not the USB drive

The installer gets to %12 and reboots.

I then get stuck in this cycle.

Not sure what's going on, anyone having the same issue?
It helps if you boot with the verbose flag (-v) and then take a pitcure of the result and post it. You can see where it hangs.
 
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