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[SUCCESS] GA-P67A-UD4-B3 i5-2500k Lion WATERCOOLED Updated

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Nov 3, 2011
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Motherboard
GA-P67A-UD4-B3
CPU
i5-2500k watercooled
Graphics
EVGA 560TI SC retail PCB watercooled
Mac
  1. MacBook
  2. MacBook Pro
Classic Mac
  1. iBook
Mobile Phone
  1. Android
  2. iOS
  3. Other
brainslush' water-cooled Build - Core i5-2500k - GA-P67A-UD4-B3 - 16GB RAM - GTX560TI DS

IMG_1013.jpg

Components:

Apple OS X Lion @ Mac Apps Store
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/os-x-lion/id444303913?mt=12

GIGABYTE GA-P67A-UD4-B3 LGA 1155 Intel P67 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-P67A-UD4-B3-1155-Intel-Motherboard/dp/B004PGAMG2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1335812458&sr=1-1

EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti DS Superclocked 1GB 256-bit DDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16
http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Superclocked-Mini-HDMI-Graphics-01G-P3-1567-KR/dp/B004XUCCRM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335812395&sr=8-1

Intel Core i5-2500k Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Processor
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-BX80623I52500K-Core-i5-2500K-Processor/dp/B004EBUXHQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1335812510&sr=1-1

Corsair Memory Vengeance 16Gb (4x4Gb) DDR3-1600 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Channel-240-Pin-CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9/dp/B004E0ZKLQ/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1336062147&sr=8-12

1x Western Digital RE4 SATA II 1TB WD1003FBYX
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Cache-Enterprise-Drive/dp/B003SANWI6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1336062509&sr=1-1


Watercooling System:

Aquacomputer Eheim aquastream XT Ultra
http://www.candccentral.co.uk/aquacomputer-aquastream-xt-usb-12v-pump-ultra-version-41061.html

Aquacomputer cuplex kryos Delrin CPU-block
http://www.candccentral.co.uk/aquacomputer-cuplex-kryos-delrin-sockets-1366-1156-775-g1-4.html

Watercool HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 560 GPU-block
http://www.candccentral.co.uk/watercool-heatkiller-gpu-x-gtx-560-15507.html

2x Phobya G-Changer 120 V2
http://www.candccentral.co.uk/phobya-g-changer-120-ver-1.2-120mm-radiator-35219.html

2x Noctua NF-P12 Vortex-Control 120mm Quiet Case Fan
http://www.candccentral.co.uk/noctua-nf-p12-vortex-control-120mm-quiet-case-fan.html

Alphacool Repack-Cooling Slot-In Black Reservoir
http://www.candccentral.co.uk/alphacool-repack-cooling-slot-in-black-15609.html


Already Owned:

Antec Case P180
http://www.antec.com/demo/P180.html

3x Western Digital RE4 SATA II 1TB WD1003FBYX Internal Hard Drive
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Cache-Enterprise-Drive/dp/B003SANWI6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1336062509&sr=1-1

NEC MultiSync E231W Flatscreen Monitor
http://www.amazon.com/NEC-Display-E231W-BK-Widescreen-LED-Backlit/dp/B003YGZJSU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1336065233&sr=1-1

Apple Keyboard
http://www.amazon.com/Apple-Wireless-Keyboard-MC184LL-VERSION/dp/B005DLDO4U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1336064176&sr=1-1

Logitech G5 Laser Mouse
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Laser-Mouse-Blue-Black/dp/B000ODN7VM/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1336065274&sr=1-1-spell


Comments:

I know that the case isn't one of the newest but it has done a good job. I'm thinking about installing noise-killing mats but just had no time yet to do this.
Double-screen, QE and CI acceleration and HDMI works.
I found that MacBookPro8,1 is the best choice as identifier since in MacPro4,1 and MacPro5,1 you only will have 2 p-steps for your CPU. In MacPro3,1 you will have more steps but no AGPM. After some testing i found that the MacBookPro8,1 identifier gives the best results. There you have more p-steps and AGPM is also available.

Sleep works as well

I'm not much of an hardcore overclocker, now people will probably ask themselves why then a watercooling system?! The reason is rather simple because of the deep deep silence. There isn't much what annoys me more then the sound of a fan. I already had many different fans and I find the Noctua-fans as the best for now. Even though I said I don't deal much with extreme overclocking, I'll add an overclocking guide. I didn't need it but for those of you who are new to over clocking this tutorial is really good and comprehensive.

http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners.html

At the end is a short introduction about watercooling and watercooling parts

Installation Guide 10.7.4:
Now follows a step-by-step explanation what to do to get the system running, I excluded installation procedures for USB3 and eSata for now, I will include them later.

0. Assemble your system. Make sure that you cut of protruding parts. Buy OS-X Lion!!!

1. Update your MoBo-Bios to F6 or higher. Check the DSDT-Database:
  • http://www.tonymacx86.com/dsdt.php
    The DSDT for F6 does also work for F8 (only tested for this setup)
    Make sure you have set following settings in the Bios:
    Real-Time Ratio Changes in OS: Disabled
    Intel(R) Turbo Boost Tech.: Enabled
    Those are necessary to avoid that your CPU gets locked at x16

2. Install Lion
2.1 2.1.
2.2.
  • After the first start you need to start Multibeast. Check the boxes as shown in the image below.

3. In contrary to my 10.7.3 guide in 10.7.4 I have no more problems with random GPU freezes. So enjoy the new graphic drivers. For those who are only interested to get their 560TI working I attached the
3.1 3.2.
  • To get the full power you need to enable AGPM (AppleGraphicsPowerManagment). One can do this by changing SMproductname to MacPro4,1, MacPro5,1 and so on in the smbios.plist file. It's located under /Extra/. I found that MacBookPro8,1 is the best choice. (You can also check the wished Smproductname in Multibeast)
3.3. 3.4.
  • Make sure that you repair the disk-permissions after replacing the plist file. You can either use Multibeat or Disk-Utilities

Cinebench result without AGPM enabled
CB_OSX_w_o_AGPM.jpg


Cinebench result with AGPM enabled
CB_OSX_w_AGPM.jpg


4. In 10.7.4 CPUs with an open multiplier are stuck on x16 unless one adds a ssdt and sets some bios settings.
4.1
  • In the Bios set the settings which are listed above.
4.2
  • Make sure that you have checked the SSDT settings in Multibeast


Geekbench result i5-2500k@4,5Ghz
GB_OSX_64.jpg



5. Get yourself a beer, sit back and relax.


MultiBeast Configuration for Lion 7.4
MB_7_4_0.jpg


Installation Guide 10.7.3:

Now follows a step-by-step explanation what to do to get the system running:

0. Assemble your system. Make sure that you cut of protruding parts. Buy OS-X Lion!!!

1. Update your MoBo-Bios to F6. Check the DSDT-Database:
2. Install Lion
2.1 2.1. 2.2.
  • After the first start you need to start Multibeast. Check the boxes as shown in the image below.

3. To get audio working:
3.1. 3.2. 3.3.
  • Use the SR-Tool to install the kext

4. For some shinny images and 3D-graphics do this:
4.1 4.2.
  • Notice that the 560Ti only works properly in three G-states (Energystates). In state 3 the Nvidia-driver tends to crash and freeze the system. Therefore you need to enable AGPM (AppleGraphicsPowerManagment). One can do this by changing SMproductname to MacPro 4,1 in the smbios.plist file. It's located under /Extra/ (Note: you need sudo-rights to change the file)
4.3. 4.4
  • Disable the hardware acceleration in Flash, somehow Flash is possible to kill the NVidia driver
[/list]

5. Rebuild the kext-cache and restart.

6. Get yourself a beer, sit back and relax.


MultiBeast Configuration for Lion
multib.jpg


Watercooling Guide:

You probably already saw it once or at least heart about it: watercooling. Some years ago this way of cooling your system was a privilege reserved for people with a lot of money and some nerdy enthusiasm of spending hours on the work bench. Today of course watercooling is still more expensive than pure air-cooling but you can already buy watercooling bundles for 70Euros upwards, even if I wouldn't advise to buy them. The idea behind watercooling is quite simple: use the water to transport the heat to places which are less warm, which makes it more effective than pure air-cooling since you don't get frustrated about huge heatsinks which are interrupting the smooth airflow. There are different concepts of watercooling. The most difference is the type of radiator you are going to use. Later, more about that.

First of all you have to know some important things
1. You are dealing with electricity and water. Always test the coolingsystem for some hours and check for leaks before you plugin the powercort into the PSU. I won't be responsible for your parts and your life.
2. You will probably lose the warranty of some of the parts
3. Never mix up watercooling parts made of different kinds of metal, which would likely cause corrosion. You can prevent this by adding wateradditives but which also reduces the heatcapacity of the water.

The Important parts of a watercoolingsystem:

Pump:
There are hundred of different water pumps since most are usual fish tank pumps they are not that expensive. Now there exist some specialized pumps designed for the computer which are usually more silent and grant access to several options, such as controlling the waterflowrate, watertemperature, etc.

Radiator:
The radiator as it name suggest radiates heat which was transported by the water to a cooler place outside or inside the computer. There are different types and sizes of radiators:

Tubes and Connectors, Fittings:
Most important about the tubes are their sizes. They have an inner radius and an outer radius. I guess you will get mixed up quite fast with the sizes since some distributors use inch, others millimeters.

Fittings:
There are three common types of fittings: Screw fittings, plug fittings and barbs. It is up to you which one you might prefer. What I can tell you is that it appears to me that there are a lot of reports that plug fittings are leaking but I wouldn't generalize that and in return those are quite easy to install. But in case you want to go the saver way i would strongly suggest to stick to one of the other two types.

Waterblocks:
Depending on what you want to cool, there exist waterblocks for almost every part of your system: GPU, CPU, Chipset, RAM, HDD, PSU, really almost everything. I wouldn't suggest to you to cool all your parts with water. In most cases it's rather unnecessary to cool the RAM, PSU or HDD. Usually the waterblocks consist manly of aluminum, copper or in seldom cases silver. I usually would just recommend to use copper parts, since copper and aluminum parts have the same price but copper a higher thermal conductivity. When you are buying the waterblocks always be aware that those might have different fittings so don't forget to buy the correct adapters.

Reservoirs:
Without a reservoirs really bad things can happen. There are two main reasons for the reservoirs. When water gets heated, it expands which would cause a higher pressure in a closed system without an control valve to release the pressure. So the reservoirs always contains part water part air to reduce the pressure in the system. Another important fact is that specially the first time after you set up your watercooling cycle you will have a lot of air in your cycle. This air can be captured and released using the reservoir.

Water:
Something about the coolingliquid: You definitely can't use usual water from the tap. You need to get some distilled water, usually you can purchase it in the next supermarket, carsupply store or building center. Most of the watercooling stores are also selling distilled water. In my opinion, it's unnecessary to buy specially for water-cooling produced coolingliquids but this is where opinions diverge. There are also additives which you can add to the water e.g. antirust agent, colors, UV-aktiv additives and so on and so on….. Since all these additives are reducing the heatcapacity of the water I would just recommend to add an antirust agent: I personally use G48 mixed with distilled water, it contains Ethylene glycol and can be purchased in any carsupply store.

Arrangement:
Actually there is no specific order for the single components. The only important order is that the reservoirs sits in front and above the pump such that the reservoirs can always provide a constant flow of water towards the pump.

Further hints:
Keep the distance of the tubes as short as possible and the number of angles and bending as less as possible.
Use Teflon tape and replace non fitting o-rings to avoid leaks.

Edit1: Added a hint to the Installation Guide (Flash hardware acceleration)
Edit2: Added guide for 10.7.4
 
Re: [SUCCESS] GA-P67A-UD4-B3 i5-2500k Lion WATERCOOLED 10.7.3

Hey Man,

I just want to thank you from the bottom of my heart, because finally, I mean FINALLY, I got my GTX 560 ti 2 GB working (WELL!). Before I stumbled upon your post/build I think I spend over 60 hours trying to get it to work. I followed your steps and now I hit 57 fps in Unigine Heaven (benchmark tool).

:thumbup: :clap:

Thanks a whole lot!
 
Re: [SUCCESS] GA-P67A-UD4-B3 i5-2500k Lion WATERCOOLED 10.7.3

Hi, thanks for this guide, what kind o numbers do you get with Cinebench? My are pretty bad CPU is 2.45pts what can be wrong? because my Windows 7 are Cinebench a lot hight 4.40pts
 
Re: [SUCCESS] GA-P67A-UD4-B3 i5-2500k Lion WATERCOOLED 10.7.3

This guide is for 10.7.3 will update today or tomorrow for 10.7.4.
I guess you missed to install the ssdt to get past the x16 multiplier.
 
Hey Brain Slush, Have you installed ML on your system, im in the middle of Multibeast setup on my ML install on my i7 2600k build with your same board, i have a GTX 560ti, should i go with macbook pro 8,1 identifier just as you did on your ML install, Maybe you wanna post up your multibeast settings and what you selected after getting into ML as i have ML installed succesfully with macpro 3,1 but only thing is i have no audio or usb 3.0, Please reply if possible :eek:
 
Hi brainslush,

In your guide, you said "I excluded installation procedures for USB3 and eSata for now, I will include them later.". Did you solve it?

I also have a GA-P67A-UD4-B3 build, the eSata external disk only works if it was connected before boot, while the USB3 never works. I tried both Lion and Mountain Lion but it's the same result.

Thanks if you can give some clue.
 
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