- Joined
- Feb 27, 2016
- Messages
- 7
- Mac
- Classic Mac
- Mobile Phone
I just returned one of the new MacBooks because the keyboard is simply unacceptable and decided to instead build a hackintosh with enough ram and processor to do a respectable dive into some larger machine learning projects I've been wanting to tackle. If it didn't work, I'd just install linux, so you could say I wasn't invested in making this work, but the reality is that it was very simple and has been amazing.
Components
Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3
Intel Core i7-4790 3.6Ghz
Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB (2x kits, 4 sticks) DDR3-1600 (PCI-12800) CL8
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB Sata II
TP-LINK T8E AC1750 Wireless Dual Band PCI-Express Network Adapter
IOGear Bluetooth 4.0 USB Micro Adapter
Acer K272HL 27" 1080p Widescreen Display (2x)
Logitech Bluetooth Easy-Switch Illuminated Keyboard for Mac
Apple MC380LL/A Magic TrackPad
Corsair RM Series RM650 650 Watt ATX Modular Power Supply
NZXT H230 Classic Silent Mid Tower ATX Computer Case - Black
Install and USB 3.0
I did run into some problems, but upon review, it was because I didn't follow the guide as well as I probably should have and was suffering from USB3 issues, which were later resolved, but during install caused strangeness. Moving to 2.0 ports fixed the issues, but I was experiencing instability and issues with Bluetooth and my time machine drive until I stopped using USB3 ports for USB3 capable devices. As long as I used USB3 devices in the two USB2 ports on the back on the motherboard, it was fine. The second I started putting USB3 devices in USB3 ports, it worked in some of them but things went down hill. For install, I suggest not even messing with the 3.0 ports and use a cheap keyboard/mouse in the USB2 ports until the USB3 fix is applied. For my install, I used a $8 Inland brand keyboard/mouse combo package from Micro Center, and lemme tell ya, I was very impressed with that $8 keyboard and mouse
.
Settings / Drivers / Fixes
Status / What works / What doesn't
The only issue that remains is that sleep tends to make audio go away IF something wasn't playing when the machine went to sleep. I haven't tried to fix this as I just disabled sleep because I want long running processes to continue going despite a lack of user input based on the work that I am doing. Oddly enough, I determined that if audio is broken, I can start an audio app playing (such as Spotify) and then sleep while it is playing, then when the machine comes back audio is working again. I want to make it 100% clear that I have not really tried to fix this issue because I simply don't care because I don't run into it based on my usage pattern—There are a plethora of potential fixes for this, I tried one, it didn't work, determined I didn't care, and moved on.
USB3.0 works great on all my 3.0 ports. I have dual head going with two monitors, one on DVI, the other HDMI. The Ethernet controller is detected, but I haven't plugged anything in to see if it actually works since I only use wireless and have no network ran upstairs where the system is.
The system appears completely stable and has been running for a week.
One last parting note. I ran a USB extension cable so my little Bluetooth USB "button dongle" is behind my monitors zipped to a display cable. I was having issues with range from my computer to my keyboard, or it could have just been my glass desks. Not sure. Wasn't impressed with the range of the bluetooth controller—perhaps others are better... there are lots that work.
Oh, and one parting shot. Don't ever get the iHome magic keyboard clone. The escape key needs Fn to be pressed to work, and I use VI all the time, so I about came unglued.
Wayne
Components
Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3
Intel Core i7-4790 3.6Ghz
Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB (2x kits, 4 sticks) DDR3-1600 (PCI-12800) CL8
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB Sata II
TP-LINK T8E AC1750 Wireless Dual Band PCI-Express Network Adapter
IOGear Bluetooth 4.0 USB Micro Adapter
Acer K272HL 27" 1080p Widescreen Display (2x)
Logitech Bluetooth Easy-Switch Illuminated Keyboard for Mac
Apple MC380LL/A Magic TrackPad
Corsair RM Series RM650 650 Watt ATX Modular Power Supply
NZXT H230 Classic Silent Mid Tower ATX Computer Case - Black
Install and USB 3.0
I did run into some problems, but upon review, it was because I didn't follow the guide as well as I probably should have and was suffering from USB3 issues, which were later resolved, but during install caused strangeness. Moving to 2.0 ports fixed the issues, but I was experiencing instability and issues with Bluetooth and my time machine drive until I stopped using USB3 ports for USB3 capable devices. As long as I used USB3 devices in the two USB2 ports on the back on the motherboard, it was fine. The second I started putting USB3 devices in USB3 ports, it worked in some of them but things went down hill. For install, I suggest not even messing with the 3.0 ports and use a cheap keyboard/mouse in the USB2 ports until the USB3 fix is applied. For my install, I used a $8 Inland brand keyboard/mouse combo package from Micro Center, and lemme tell ya, I was very impressed with that $8 keyboard and mouse
.Settings / Drivers / Fixes
- Bios: Optimized defaults, XMP profile 1, VT-d disabled.
- UniBeast / Clover initial install boot: Defaults worked.
- MultiBeast / Clover Settings:
Quick Start > UEFI Boot Mode
Drivers > Audio > Realtek ACLxxx > ACL887/888b
Drivers Misc > Fake SMC v6.18.1394
Drivers > Network Realtek > RealtekRTL8111 v2.0.0
Bootloaders > Clover v2.3k R3320 UEFI Boot Mode
Customize > System Definitions > Mac Pro > Mac Pro 3,1 - USB3.0 Fix: FakePCIID_XHCIMux.kext and FAKEPCIID.kext installed with KextBeast
Status / What works / What doesn't
The only issue that remains is that sleep tends to make audio go away IF something wasn't playing when the machine went to sleep. I haven't tried to fix this as I just disabled sleep because I want long running processes to continue going despite a lack of user input based on the work that I am doing. Oddly enough, I determined that if audio is broken, I can start an audio app playing (such as Spotify) and then sleep while it is playing, then when the machine comes back audio is working again. I want to make it 100% clear that I have not really tried to fix this issue because I simply don't care because I don't run into it based on my usage pattern—There are a plethora of potential fixes for this, I tried one, it didn't work, determined I didn't care, and moved on.
USB3.0 works great on all my 3.0 ports. I have dual head going with two monitors, one on DVI, the other HDMI. The Ethernet controller is detected, but I haven't plugged anything in to see if it actually works since I only use wireless and have no network ran upstairs where the system is.
The system appears completely stable and has been running for a week.
One last parting note. I ran a USB extension cable so my little Bluetooth USB "button dongle" is behind my monitors zipped to a display cable. I was having issues with range from my computer to my keyboard, or it could have just been my glass desks. Not sure. Wasn't impressed with the range of the bluetooth controller—perhaps others are better... there are lots that work.
Oh, and one parting shot. Don't ever get the iHome magic keyboard clone. The escape key needs Fn to be pressed to work, and I use VI all the time, so I about came unglued.
Wayne
