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SJ_UnderWater's Thin MiniITX Build DQ77KB, i3-3225

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Joined
Dec 3, 2010
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Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-H55M-S2V
CPU
Intel i3-530
Graphics
HIS HD 6570
Mac
  1. iMac
Mobile Phone
  1. Android
SJ_UnderWater's Thin Mini ITX Build: i3-3225 - Intel DQ77KB - HD4000
eO7Iu.jpg

Components

Intel DQ77KB Thin mITX Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813121622

Intel Core i3-3225 Dual-Core Processor 3.3 GHz 3 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80637i33225 (also at Microcenter)
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-3225-Dual-Core-Processor-Cache/dp/B0093H8H8I/

Team 8GB DDR3 SO-DIMM RAM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313237

Mushkin 30GB Atlas mSATA SSD
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226368

In-Win BQ656T-ADP80 mITX Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811108412

Toshiba TS-T633A Slot-Load Slim DVD-RAM Drive
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=TS-T633-DO&cat=DVD

AW-NB037H WiFi + Bluetooth Combo Card (ebay)

20cm WiFi Pigtail (ebay)

HP 180W 19V AC Adapter PA-1181-02 (ebay)


Already Owned

3' DisplayPort Cable

23" 1080p DP IPS Monitor

4" WiFi Pigtail


Comments

I made this build primarily as an example of a very small but still-good, extensible build, using off-the-shelf parts, available cheaply, in a tight package. The Intel DQ77KB motherboard was the obvious choice, since it was the cheapest mITX board that had both mPCIe and mSATA slots, SATA3, gigabit Ethernet, a LGA1155 socket, DP and HDMI ports, and compatible chipsets (Intel LAN, ALC892, Intel USB3.0).

Most of the parts above were the cheapest that worked in this configuration though some additional economies are possible, including a rotational 2.5" HD, no WiFi, no optical, less RAM, etc. The case itself wasn't ideal, but fit my requirements for an HTPC: no visible ports on the front, self-contained, no flashing lights, all black, front slim optical bay. Since it will almost always be on, the power switch, accessible from the hole left by the PSU, is not critical.

I hope others will take my positive experience with this board (all subsystems working!) and make their own builds, desktop or AIO (see below). Samisnake has suggested the Wesena ITX2-B / Streacom F1C, on Amazon and Perfect Home Theater as an attractive case, though it may require a low-profile cooler.

A Few Notes On Parts
  • This board requires a special 19V (±10%) DC power supply, 12A max (~228W max). The connector may or may not have a center pin, the outer ring must be 7.4mm and GND, the inner ring must be 5.1mm and 19V.
  • Intel specifies a maximum CPU TDP of 65W for this board, also make sure your choice has HD 4000 graphics.
  • The mSATA slot's multiplexer is connected to SATA2 (3Gb/s), like all desktop mSATA slots.
  • The ideal configuration keeps all components on the board itself, except a possible slim SATA optical drive
  • Both the case and motherboard include slim SATA power cables, but only the board's is useful, you will not have access to another PSU (the case's PSU will not power on unless you trip the circuit).
  • The case has rear cutouts for eSATA, 2x USB (2.0), and "Universal Antenna Module". The front has a cutout for a 3-in-1 card reader which may no longer be sold.
  • Only the CPU cooler is strictly necessary, and the machine will be nearly silent with normal use.
  • Combo WiFi + Bluetooth cards which work in OSX are hard to find, but make sure you purchase or repurpose pigtails which reach the two RP-SMA cutouts on the mITX IO shield (the thin mITX shield only has one cutout).
  • The larger shield also has cutouts for an Expresscard slot, and an F-cable suitable for TV tuners.
A Few Notes On Building
  • Remove all mounts (one desktop, two interlocking, two case-access tabs) for less clutter.
  • Remove the PSU (two screws) for more room, possibly also to place the coiled remote as I have.
  • Attach any SATA drives first, the optical drive requires removing the front cutout, and two screws on each side of the sled, one on the rear.
  • The optical sled will attach upside-down and right-side-up
  • Make sure you pull the SATA and SATA power cables through the slots to the right of the slim-optical sled before you place the motherboard. There will not be enough room for the Intel-provided right-angle SATA power connector when the motherboard is attached.
  • Assemble the motherboard in its entirety before placing, including the remote's header cables which must be separated to reach the various headers.
  • It is possible to use the stock cooler with this case, but requires snipping off the fan's arm closest to the front of the case. Snip halfway to the center of the fan, then snip the rising part at the level of the fan blades. This will not affect operation, and the blades will not touch any part of the case.
  • The top RAM slot is #1, if only using one stick, make sure you place it there.
  • SATA0 is actually the blue port in the middle, not the furthest as described in the literature.
  • The mSATA risers will not separate from the screws until you tighten the risers to the board, then carefully loosen the screws.
  • The HDD LED header is not labeled, the yellow cable is negative (yellow and orange cables).
  • Temporarily detach the motherboard battery from the microphone jack (it uses rubber cement), and align the IO shield before placing both in the case.
A Few Notes On Installing
  • Don't bother doing anything until you modify and update the BIOS. Download the newest "recovery" ROM from Intel (version 0048, ~14MB at time of writing), patch it with DPCIManager (or a separate copy of PMPatch), then place it on a FAT32 MBR USB drive and use the board's F7 BIOS update option. Only version #38 (the shipping version) allows flashing a patched BIOS, downgrade first if necessary. The flashing process may take a while.
  • Using version 0048, it's only necessary to set the minimum VRAM to 64MB, but make sure you enter "Graphics Mode"="1920x1080x32" (or your monitor's resolution if different) at the Chimera boot screen until you run Multibeast. You may also turn off the second ethernet chipset (the first is the red Intel AMT), turn off other boot options, set the order, etc
  • If only using ALC892 audio, choose "Without DSDT" in Multibeast
  • Simple DSDT edits (use MaciASL, and the Replace Names, Insert DTGP, and HD4k HDMI patches from the SourceForge repository) and "With DSDT" will enable audio over DP, but binary kext edits are necessary for audio over the HDMI port.
  • Choose DSDT-Free, Intel ethernet, ALC892, 1080p Display, and FakeSMC plugins from Multibeast, also consider the iMac12,2 or other system definition for AirPlay Mirroring.
  • Install the TRIM enabler for all SSDs except OCZ
  • Use AzureWaveNB037H.kext for WiFi and bluetooth
  • Consider using the modified 3rdPartySATA kext.
  • Disable hibernation using `sudo pmset -a hibernatemode 0` from Terminal.
  • Generate an SSDT using the Basic Ivy generator in MaciASL, with 55W TDP, and 3400 (3300 + 100) max turbo. Reached 12,16,21,27,33
Taking it Further
  • Using a macmini6,2 sysdef (the SMC version should be 2.8f0) may initially cause a couple of problems. My first boot was without QE/CI, and the menu bar extras "flickered" with systemuiserver crashes until I unchecked the AirPlay menu option.
  • Intel and its partners made a few do-it-yourself All-In-One chassis for this board, which typically include speakers, screen (some with multitouch), and power supply. The result is very much like an iMac.
  • If you edit the BIOS ROM with Intel's Integrator Toolkit to change the splash image (shrink the image to 70% horizontally if using a widescreen monitor), remove the boot display options, and set Quiet Boot for Chimera (make sure you keep an installer USB around), you won't see any non-Apple imagery during boot. A few unpatched examples.
  • The BIOS also includes an option called "Startup Sound" which plays the Intel sound on the on-board audio (rear green). It might be possible to edit the ROM and replace the sound file with another, including Apple's startup chime.
So, there you have it. Whether you want a low cost, compact general purpose computer or a HTPC, you can start with this system. Good luck.

--edit
Added #38 BIOS info
Binary Patch link now has prepared solution
Preliminary USB2/USB3 multiplexing patch
 
yes, it seems only the first BIOS version #38 (my shipping version) allows patched ROMs, but it's simple work to flash back to the oldest, then flash your newest patched. I didn't realize I got lucky the first time around until I was asked to try to modify the splash image using the Integrator Toolkit, then patch and flash. It's possible some other version between #38 and #46 will allow patched BIOSes, but I can confirm that downgrading then upgrading works fine using the F7 utility. Edited the post.
 
SJ, gr8 build. mini boards are perfect for normal day to day usage. takes tiny space on desk.

GB score and more photos if possible please.
 
I believe the i3-3225 + 8GB 1333MHz got me ~6770 on Geekbench 32bit, which I hear is about right for those parts.
 
Thank you very much!

The patched BIOS works just fine on my Cube Hack. Even sleep works without an issue - I use the Macmini5.1 sysdef! :thumbup:

MacTester
 
I found version 49 of the BIOS on Intel's DL page and applied the PMPatch to that and used your re-flash process to install. I now can run with out the NullPower kext and sleep and wake from sleep work (almost, as I am still running in the Loop L5 AIO chassis with the problematic LVDS internal display).

I am undecided where to go from here. I could do nothing and hope that a solution comes along or I could strip the DQ77KB out and do a scratch build case for it.

MacTester has done the nearly perfect G4 Cube with his board so that would be a hard act to follow.

neil
 
MacTester has done the nearly perfect G4 Cube with his board so that would be a hard act to follow.

Thanks for your praise. I would like to see another Cube Hack from you!

MacTester
 
I found version 49 of the BIOS on Intel's DL page and applied the PMPatch to that and used your re-flash process to install. I now can run with out the NullPower kext and sleep and wake from sleep work (almost, as I am still running in the Loop L5 AIO chassis with the problematic LVDS internal display).

I am undecided where to go from here. I could do nothing and hope that a solution comes along or I could strip the DQ77KB out and do a scratch build case for it.

MacTester has done the nearly perfect G4 Cube with his board so that would be a hard act to follow.

neil

Hello Neilhart,

I building a system based on a all-in-one PC system as featured here:
http://b2b.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3840#ov

with same DQ77KB, i3-3225

I'm not able to make graphic driver for LVDS or even HDMI working. Any suggestion?

What I have done so far:
1. I have updated the BIOS to the latest version - build 48.
2. Created an OSX partition and installed using unibeast 1.6.0
3. Install NullPower kext and FakeSMC plugins
I was able to install from the 6GB/s SATA connection. This is good because I have seen past blog saying its not working.

What is not working:
When I install the graphic driver from Multibeast and reboot, mouse and keyboard are not responding!
 
I seem to have a similar problem - after Multibeast 5.2.1 install using the Easybeast option with 1080p output set, graphics fail upon reboot with my DQ77KB and i3 3225.

Earlier, I tried using patched BIOS 48 but after a couple of reboots, the system appeared to panic and auto reflashed itself back to BIOS 38.

Since upgraded it to 45, but I'm struggling to get a stable 10.8.2 operating. Now installing again on 120gb disk on the SATA interface; temporarily pulled the Crucial M4 mSATA that I intend to use as boot.

Ran up another drive with Arch Linux to check the hardware running XBMC - runs brilliantly.
 
When I install the graphic driver from Multibeast and reboot, mouse and keyboard are not responding!
there is no HD 4000 kext in Multibeast
I seem to have a similar problem - after Multibeast 5.2.1 install using the Easybeast option with 1080p output set, graphics fail upon reboot with my DQ77KB and i3 3225.
you should not be using Easybeast, I used UserDSDT/DSDT-Free

as far as LVDS, the default AAPL,ig-platform-id injected doesn't support it (I think), so part of the key to getting it working is to inject a new one either with device-properties, or DSDT editing. MaciASL's SF repo now has a basic GFX0 patch for HD 4000, though you will have to change the platform-id.
 
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