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MP Select Mini 3D Printer.

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E88EAD43-56DF-4534-8C89-C764BC0D0465.jpeg


It’s so small for something that’s about to revolutionize the production process, I better keep it safe from Luddites!.
 
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MacMan

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In this video Frank shows us how to replace the print head fan with a more reliable Noctua!, awesome.

Theres also a reddit for MP Select Mini Owners, its updated regularly. Another thing I found is that to enable Wifi you need a iOS App that doesn't exist in the Apple Store!. From what I have been reading the App could download files and send them directly to the printer, I'll continue reading.
 
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Everything seems to be working 3D printer wise, I have a lot of tuning to do though. After a couple of failed attempts and adjusting temperatures and leveling print beds, I finally got something printing. This is amazing to watch, something slowly coming to life on the print bed.

First impressions, I think maybe the right side of the print bed isn't as level as it should be. The print is very untidy when printed on the right side of the bed, the PLA wasn't sticking to the bed properly and bits were moving. I don't think its to much of an issue to put bits of paper under right side of the magnetic plate which can come away and is secured by magnets. Pretty sure my 3D modeling needs some work too, maybe @phunguss can drop some words of wisdom for us, I'm I haven't set it up right.

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It looks like you have adhesion problems and a non-level bed. Your last pic, I assume that is the 'face down' on the bed? The nozzle is too far away on the left side; right side looks good.

Heated bed? If not, try blue painters tape, or green Frog Tape as an adhesion bed. Can you change layer height from 3 to 2? Adjust print speed from normal to high (slower)? Also might want to check 'supports', even though you have a curvature in there supporting it, bridging can become a problem, so turn on supports. One other thing to help with adhesion is turning on 'Brim', this puts an extra layer of material around the base and helps keep the piece attached, and not pulling up and warping.

What temps are your running? About 205C for PLA? or are you printing ABS (need good ventilation)?
 
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It looks like you have adhesion problems and a non-level bed. Your last pic, I assume that is the 'face down' on the bed? The nozzle is too far away on the left side; right side looks good.
Thats right the last pic shows the face down surface, the bed is definitely not level, I will raise the right side slightly.

Heated bed? If not, try blue painters tape, or green Frog Tape as an adhesion bed. Can you change layer height from 3 to 2? Adjust print speed from normal to high (slower)? Also might want to check 'supports', even though you have a curvature in there supporting it, bridging can become a problem, so turn on supports. One other thing to help with adhesion is turning on 'Brim', this puts an extra layer of material around the base and helps keep the piece attached, and not pulling up and warping.
Yes the bed is heated, I set it at 65 degrees and the maximum being 70 degrees. I have read about the blue painters tape tip before, I will try that the adhesion will be much better for it. I'll look for that layer change in Cura, the print speed has a default of one, which I guess is normal, It can be speeded up and slowed down. I checked supports, I actually removed them before taking the photo. I did use 'Brim', the printer put a base down first, but again it wasn't sticking properly in one corner and even came loose from the base.

What temps are your running? About 205C for PLA? or are you printing ABS (need good ventilation)?
I used white PLA, I couldn't smell any fumes during printing, I set nozzle to 200 C and base plate to 65 C.
 
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You shouldn't smell much from PLA. Try 205C.

I will raise the right side slightly
Best way to check for level bed all the way around, is just do a small open box near your perimeter. If you get uniform pressed line all the way around, you are level. If you get no adhesion (round tube/bead), that is a low spot and needs to be raised. If you get a small bead that is not half-mashed into the surface, you are still a little too high (don't know if there is an initial height sensor, I wedged paper under mine to raise the bed to make up for the tape).

first_layer.jpg


Also read a lot of 3D print forums like this. https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-fix-the-most-common-3d-printing-errors/
 
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Thanks, @phunguss, I tried this too, squares at the corners and in the center. Another good resource I discovered this week is the MPSM owners reddit, I posted the picture below and received lots of comments and advice. But it's safe to say the self leveling doesn't self level so manual calibration gets involved. Apparently I'm oozing to much, as well as other issues, but I know how to change that in Cura. I really like this printer, it's completely solid with no rattling parts, you can print your own mods to improve it. Watching YT videos about this printer, the commentators seem to like it too, one guy mentioned he bought two and another saying it's been perfect for a year. But it's all about the print bed and getting that first layer perfect.


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One of the exciting things about owning a 3D printer for modding, is that you can mod the printer too. I solved the 'Why is it making that really load noise when zeroing the X axis?'. Well, apparently, the issue was due to a improperly mounted limit switch, the lever is not supposed to sit on top the print head, aforementioned 'lever' is supposed to press against the side of it. You could A, shimmy the limit switch lower by loosening bolts under the switch, but that sounds very time consuming and complicated. Looking at what would need to be removed to access those two tiny bolts, no!. B print a spacer using the 3D printer, genius!. My spacer mod now has a proper connection with the x axis switch lever, no more really loud noise.

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