Gigabyte Z490 Vision D (Thunderbolt 3) + i5-10400 + AMD RX 580

[CaseySJ]

Hi, so, I have semi-successfully built a Vision D system, pretty minimal at this point, 32GB RAM & 1TB NVMe. I am trying to get it to work with an Apple Thunderbolt Display (I know...) using the Apple Thunderbolt adapter.

I was unable to successfully flash the Thunderbolt firmware eeprom (I may come back to this in a subsequent post)

If you decide to revisit the task of flashing the on-board controller, the preferred SPI Flash ROM reader/writer is this one:

[SUCCESS] Gigabyte Designare Z390 (Thunderbolt 3) + i7-9700K + AMD RX 580

In terms of audio stuff, which can be kinda finicky at times, most of my plugins work, Can you elaborate a little more about which ones were giving you problems, thx!

www.tonymacx86.com

so I bought an GC-Alpine Ridge card which turns out is a 2.0 version. The card shows up in system report under PCI, although interestingly it is described as "Intel JHL-7540 Titan Ridge Thunderbolt NHI", but the Thunderbolt monitor doesn't show up or startup on cold boot, warm boot, or hot plug.

The IOReg file shows only one Thunderbolt controller, and it's located at RP05. This is the on-board Titan Ridge controller (JHL 7540). There is no mention of the GC-Alpine Ridge in the IOReg file. Have you bridged the top and middle pins of the card's 5-pin vertical J1 header? That forces the card to turn on.

 

[thomasjudge]

If you decide to revisit the task of flashing the on-board controller, the preferred SPI Flash ROM reader/writer is this one:

[SUCCESS] Gigabyte Designare Z390 (Thunderbolt 3) + i7-9700K + AMD RX 580

In terms of audio stuff, which can be kinda finicky at times, most of my plugins work, Can you elaborate a little more about which ones were giving you problems, thx!

www.tonymacx86.com

The IOReg file shows only one Thunderbolt controller, and it's located at RP05. This is the on-board Titan Ridge controller (JHL 7540). There is no mention of the GC-Alpine Ridge in the IOReg file. Have you bridged the top and middle pins of the card's 5-pin vertical J1 header? That forces the card to turn on.

I did jumper the top & middle pins on the PCI card. I tried moving it between slots as well, and I still can't get it to be recognized so maybe it is just not functional. I'll return it and try again.

Re flashing the onboard controller: that is the programmer and clip that I tried, I was unable to get it to read the chip. So I have some questions on this:
1) is there any way to verify the firmware contents other than by using the programmer, can one verify it at all from macOS? I am primarily interested in verifying that I did not zorch the chip
2) Is it possible to read/flash it while all the other components are on the motherboard, so if I try again I don't have to disassemble everything?
3) If that chip did somehow get fried, has anyone either unsoldered and replaced it, or soldered a replacement on top of it? The winbond chip looks to be only like a dollar or so

 

[zzmadd]

I try asking here as there's huge knowledge circulating.
Thanks all.

I have a wireless BCM94360NG module that's on an Asus Rog Strix Z390-I Gaming and that has very slow upload speed. Download speed is as expected: 72Mb. Upload speed is very slow: 0.8Mb instead of 20Mb.

I have on the very same network other PCs running those 20Mb upload speed.
Also I have on the same network another PC with another wireless BCM94360NG module identical to the one that's slow. The 2nd wireless BCM94360NG module is fit into a Chinese X99 motherboard and rusn at the expected 20Mb speed and it's further away from the router.
This module requires no drivers or modifications ad far as I know.

I tried changing antennas, network from 5.0Ghz to 2.4Ghz, I tried changing to another network, I tried Big sur instead of Catalina BUT there's no difference. While download speed is fine upload speed is not at just 0.7Mb. At this speed sending attachments in an email is problematic. Things gets zombie.

Any idea what it could be?

Thanks for your help.

 

[CaseySJ]

I did jumper the top & middle pins on the PCI card. I tried moving it between slots as well, and I still can't get it to be recognized so maybe it is just not functional. I'll return it and try again.

The card should be seen in IOReg if it's running the original firmware. Please try CMOS Reset as well, which will require BIOS parameters to be configured once again (starting with Load Optimized Defaults or its equivalent for your board).

Re flashing the onboard controller: that is the programmer and clip that I tried, I was unable to get it to read the chip. So I have some questions on this:
1) is there any way to verify the firmware contents other than by using the programmer, can one verify it at all from macOS? I am primarily interested in verifying that I did not zorch the chip

Reading the firmware through the SPI ROM Reader/Writer is the most reliable way of confirming its contents. However, if a nearby surface mount device (such as tiny resistor) was accidentally dislodged, then:

• The SPI ROM reader/writer will still be able to read and write to the chip.
• But the chip will not be visible to the rest of the motherboard.
• It will be necessary to solder the resistor or other dislodged component back.

2) Is it possible to read/flash it while all the other components are on the motherboard, so if I try again I don't have to disassemble everything?

Yes not a problem at all. It's not necessary to disassemble everything.

3) If that chip did somehow get fried, has anyone either unsoldered and replaced it, or soldered a replacement on top of it? The winbond chip looks to be only like a dollar or so

The chip is not fried, but a nearby resistor may have been knocked out when the 8-pin SOIC clip was attached or detached from the Winbond chip.

Can you take a well-lit close up (macro lens) photo of the area immediately around the Winbond chip?

 

[CaseySJ]

I try asking here as there's huge knowledge circulating.
Thanks all.

I have a wireless BCM94360NG module that's on an Asus Rog Strix Z390-I Gaming and that has very slow upload speed. Download speed is as expected: 72Mb. Upload speed is very slow: 0.8Mb instead of 20Mb.

I have on the very same network other PCs running those 20Mb upload speed.
Also I have on the same network another PC with another wireless BCM94360NG module identical to the one that's slow. The 2nd wireless BCM94360NG module is fit into a Chinese X99 motherboard and rusn at the expected 20Mb speed and it's further away from the router.
This module requires no drivers or modifications ad far as I know.

I tried changing antennas, network from 5.0Ghz to 2.4Ghz, I tried changing to another network, I tried Big sur instead of Catalina BUT there's no difference. While download speed is fine upload speed is not at just 0.7Mb. At this speed sending attachments in an email is problematic. Things gets zombie.

Any idea what it could be?

Thanks for your help.

Have you tried either Linux or Windows on the Asus ROG Strip Z390-I Gaming system? I believe Windows requires a Broadcom driver, but the card may be natively supported in Linux. What upload/download speeds are obtained in those operating systems?

 

[zzmadd]

Have you tried either Linux or Windows on the Asus ROG Strip Z390-I Gaming system? I believe Windows requires a Broadcom driver, but the card may be natively supported in Linux. What upload/download speeds are obtained in those operating systems?

Hi there, thanks a lot for your help.
I just tested in Windows and the speed is poor there as well.
When I test in Windows the test itself stutters showing first good speed but then freezing and then showing much lower speed till it gets to the 1Mb/s mark.

Antennas are well connected as I'm using Bluetooth, and it's very consistent.

 

[tdcam]

Hi, all! I have a Corsair H100i CPU chiller, and the fans are extremely loud on the balanced setting (in Windows and Big Sur). Is it OK to leave in the quiet mode ? Thanks for any advice .

 

[RandC]

Problem that I haven't figured out how to solve.

1. Was running Windows 10. Everything seemed fine. Wanted to boot into Mac OS X so restarted the machine
2. Upon restart I did not see the BIOS splash screen and Windows 10 started again.
3. Held Shift key down in Windows 10 to bring up trouble shooter and rebooted
4. Troubleshooter came up and I selected that I wanted to update the UFI.
5. Machine rebooted to a black screen.
6. Tried rebooting and holding down DEL key. Presented with black screen.
7. Turned off the machine. Unplugged. Reset BIOS by shorting two pins on motherboard.
8. Hooked up both the DP cable from the GPU and the HDMI cable from the motherboard to my monitor.
9. Rebooted. No signal on either DP cable or HDMI cable.
10. By accident I discovered that Windows actually booted. I can connect to Windows with Remote Desktop.
11. Still cannot get to a BIOS screen. If I hold down the DEL key during boot, both HDMI and DP have no signal however I can see that Windows 10 booted using Remote Desktop.

Since I shorted the two pins on the motherboard and still cannot get to BIOS I cannot boot into anything but Windows. Any suggestions? I'm at a loss at the moment.

Thanks

Rand

 

[canyondust]

Problem that I haven't figured out how to solve.

1. Was running Windows 10. Everything seemed fine. Wanted to boot into Mac OS X so restarted the machine
2. Upon restart I did not see the BIOS splash screen and Windows 10 started again.
3. Held Shift key down in Windows 10 to bring up trouble shooter and rebooted
4. Troubleshooter came up and I selected that I wanted to update the UFI.
5. Machine rebooted to a black screen.
6. Tried rebooting and holding down DEL key. Presented with black screen.
7. Turned off the machine. Unplugged. Reset BIOS by shorting two pins on motherboard.
8. Hooked up both the DP cable from the GPU and the HDMI cable from the motherboard to my monitor.
9. Rebooted. No signal on either DP cable or HDMI cable.
10. By accident I discovered that Windows actually booted. I can connect to Windows with Remote Desktop.
11. Still cannot get to a BIOS screen. If I hold down the DEL key during boot, both HDMI and DP have no signal however I can see that Windows 10 booted using Remote Desktop.

Since I shorted the two pins on the motherboard and still cannot get to BIOS I cannot boot into anything but Windows. Any suggestions? I'm at a loss at the moment.

Thanks

Rand

Try updating the bios from within windows 10 in Remote Desktop and turn CSM on?

 

[RandC]

Good idea. At the moment I select reverting to a previous restore point and hopefully Windows will eventually reboot. Guess I would use @BIOS to do that? Any recommendations for a stable BIOS. I think I was running F5 something. Thanks Canyondust.