First Time Builder UD5H i5-3570k GTX 670

[Griffypantd]

I've never built any computer from scratch before. My Early 2008 24" iMac has a bad GPU/LogicBoard. I am going to attempt an Ivy Bridge CustoMac Pro to run ML at 2560x1440 through Dual Link DVI and dual boot Win7 from another HDD for some gaming. I won't be using Wifi or BlueTooth and don't have any Thunderbolt or USB 3.0 devices.

I've already bought the following:
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor

Mobo: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H

GPU: EVGA 02G-P4-2678-KR GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card card dimensions 10" x 4.38"

Display: Qnix QX2700 LED 27inch Wide QHD 2560 x 1440 Built-in speaker Standard (Dual Link DVI input only, not tempered glass)

I plan on harvesting these parts from my iMac and selling the rest As Is/Parts not working on eBay:
Keyboard: Apple MB110LL/B Wired Standard Keyboard

HDD: Western Digital WD5000AAKS Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (for Win7 boot)

Mouse: Logitech M-BJ58 Optical Mouse


I have have decided on the following still to buy:
Power Supply: CORSAIR Professional Series HX650 650W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular
Active PFC Power Supply $109.99 after $10.00 rebate - no tax - free shipping

RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10 $66.99

Storage: Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive $64.99

Webcam: Logitech HD Webcam C270 $17.99 no tax free shipping

USB Flash Drive: Transcend JetFlash 760 8GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive Model TS8GJF760 (for UniBeast) $9.99 no tax free shipping

OS: OSX 10.8.2 Mountain Lion $19.99

Still Undecided about the following:
Case: Raidmax Reiter ATX-305WB - this is only $19.99 after a rebate. Is there any reason why I should spend $117.98 + PA Sales tax for a Corsair Carbide 500R? The cheap case sounds like it would fit the motherboard and GTX 670 and has cable management.

CPU Cooler: CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 (CWCH60) High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler. $39.99 no tax free shipping right now. I did get the K version of the 3570 so I guess it makes sense, I just never had tried any overclocking before. What do you think?

OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) $89.99 + PA sales tax - free shipping. I already own Windows XP. Win8 is cheaper, but I heard of people having problems gaming on it. This is the cheapest Win7 I could find. Should I just start with my XP and see how that runs first?

SSD: SanDisk Extreme SSD 120 GB SATA 6.0 Gb-s2.5-Inch Solid State Drive SDSSDX-120G-G25. $96.99 + PA sales tax - free shipping. I'm on the fence as to whether this is worth it or not. I guess it might be nice for the boot to go faster if I am booting back to OSX after gaming in Win7. Photoshop and Illustrator will probably be the most intensive programs I use in OSX.

Optical Drive: Sony Optiarc 24X DVD Burner, Bulk Package 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model AD-7280S-0B - OEM $19.99 + no tax + $6.98 shipping.
I'm going to need an optical drive to install WinXP or Win7, right?
I already own an external Samsung Ultra-slim External DVD Writer (Black) SE-S084D but I don't know if that will work. I guess I'll try it first.
http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage/SE-S084D/TSBS

GUIDES
I was planning on following the guides from either Slugnet's Video Editor, Mr. Eddy's Photo Photo Station, CoBrA2168's Build, or mbar97's Second Build for Multi-Beast settings and tweaks since they all used an UD5H with Ivy Bridge processor, and GTX 6XX gpu. Are those a safe bet to follow? Or am I likely to run into my own issues?

I am eager to hear any feedback, advice, opinions, tips, things I hadn't considered, etc.

edit 12/20/12 8:36pm - change to GPU. Zotac GTX 670 reference eBay seller backed out - got an EVGA GTX 670 FTW instead.

 

[Griffypantd]

Still seeking feedback.
USB 2.0 instead of 3.0 a safer bet for Unibeast?
What about my proposed el cheapo case? Any problems with that?
Any other glaring incompatibilites or issues?

 

[Going Bald]

Still seeking feedback.
USB 2.0 instead of 3.0 a safer bet for Unibeast?
What about my proposed el cheapo case? Any problems with that?
Any other glaring incompatibilites or issues?

The case will do just fine. All it has to do is hold the electronics inside together and have decent air circulation. Doesn't matter what it costs if it does the job. Of course, there are some really ugly cases out there with windows and flashing LEDs that you can't run fast enough to give me one, but they will still do the job and some people like windows and flashing LEDs....

Definitely USB2.0 for the UniBeast flash drive.

 

[Mbar97]

Still seeking feedback.
USB 2.0 instead of 3.0 a safer bet for Unibeast?
What about my proposed el cheapo case? Any problems with that?
Any other glaring incompatibilites or issues?

No incompatibilities as far as I can see! Make sure the case is a decent one, read reviews on Amazon or newegg to get a feel for its pros and cons. All my USB3 ports work 100%. Good luck, and glad you like my vids!

 

[runebinder]

SanDisk Extreme SSD 120 GB SATA 6.0 Gb-s2.5-Inch Solid State Drive SDSSDX-120G-G25[/B]. $96.99 + PA sales tax - free shipping. I'm on the fence as to whether this is worth it or not. I guess it might be nice for the boot to go faster if I am booting back to OSX after gaming in Win7. Photoshop and Illustrator will probably be the most intensive programs I use in OSX.

A SSD is not just useful for fast boot times. When I had a 5400RPM 500GB HDD in my MBP it took about 30 seconds for Photoshop to open, once I put a SSD in it opened in about 5-10 seconds. And that was restricted by SATA II, opens even quicker in my Hack with a Samsung 830 SSD. It will make the computer so responsive and the price is no way as prohibitive as they used to be, well worth getting one for a boot drive.