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Solved > Dualboot with Clover MacOSX + Windows

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How about this method? Has anyone tried something like this?


"this is how I settings the clover bootloader for my hackintosh that dual boot with Windows 10.

When you installing Clover, on ‘Installation Type’ Instead click on ‘Install’ choose to click ‘Customize’ see screenshot below.


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Inside ‘Custom Install‘ Check for ‘Install Clover in ESP

In ‘Bootloader section‘ check for’ Install boot0ss in MBR this option will be used for BIOS booting on BIOS motherboards.

[ boot0ss (boot0 Signature Scanning) bootloader tries to boot the first EFI/FAT32/HFS partition (defined in the MBR and then the GPT) with a valid PBR signature. If no partition is found it will try to boot the active partition defined in MBR.

This bootloader is a good choice when you have Windows installed on the same disk because Windows wants to have its partition active.

This choice will NOT set the partition status byte to active in the MBR. Source: Clover installer]


Continue with click on ‘CloverEFI‘ menu dropdown and select ‘CloverEFI 64-bits SATA

You can see screenshot below for detail



Check also ‘Install RC script on target volume

And click Install.

When installing clover finished, it will automatically mount the EFI partition. You can open it in Finder. Now you need to put additional driver called NTFS X64 driver on the EFI partition. You can download ‘NTFS X64 driver’ here https://github.com/JrCs/CloverGrowerPro/blob/master/Files/NTFS/x64/NTFS.efi

To install the driver follow this path; EFI > CLOVER > drivers64.

That’s it!"


My question is, after doing everything you say to set up Clover, can I then install Windows on another disk and not mess up Clover bootloader?

How then is the selection process between Mac and windows? Do I use Clover for both?

Then, what if a WIndows update messes up Clover? Do I have to boot in with a Clover USB and then repeat the setup you detailed?
 

Going Bald

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My question is, after doing everything you say to set up Clover, can I then install Windows on another disk and not mess up Clover bootloader?

How then is the selection process between Mac and windows? Do I use Clover for both?

Then, what if a WIndows update messes up Clover? Do I have to boot in with a Clover USB and then repeat the setup you detailed?
Disconnect the Mac OS drive or disable the port it is connected to in UEFI/BIOS. Leave only the drive you want to use for the Windows install connected.
Install Windows. Update it. Install any 3rd party software you want to use. Shut down.
Reconnect other drives or boot to UEFI/BIOS and re-enable the ports the drives are connected to.
While in the UEFI/BIOS make the Mac OS drive first in BBS Boot order. There will be a Windows icon shown in clover that will boot Windows. There will also be other Windows icons you will want to hide in Clover since they will not boot Windows and only clutter your boot selection screen.
 
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Thanks for the reply. I got this done in the meantime pretty much doing what you suggest.

Works perfectly. And there aren't even any other icons just one for mac and one for windows... must be something about the recent clover builds or windows builds I guess.

Thanks again, didn't imagine it would be so easy!
 
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@Going Bald ... I see the wisdom of disabling the MacOS boot drive so that Windows Installer can't accidentally scribble on it. However, everything I'm reading suggests that my mobo (ASUS) doesn't offer the option to disable M.2_1 which is my OSX -- sorry, MacOS -- boot drive. How dangerous is it to proceed without disabling the drive?

I do have a CCC backup of the mac boot drive, so recovery is not impossible -- but it would be a PITA. This YT video


shows a Win10 install where the Hackintosh MacOS boot drive is not disabled, and yet it succeeds. I don't think I would try sharing the boot drive as shown here (I have a 2nd internal SSD to boot windows from) so there should be no confusion about which partition is which.

Anyway, I'd like to move forward with a dual-boot configuration but there's a certain fear factor if I can't disable M.2_1, so... anyone else been there and done that?
 

Going Bald

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@Going Bald ... I see the wisdom of disabling the MacOS boot drive so that Windows Installer can't accidentally scribble on it. However, everything I'm reading suggests that my mobo (ASUS) doesn't offer the option to disable M.2_1 which is my OSX -- sorry, MacOS -- boot drive. How dangerous is it to proceed without disabling the drive?

I do have a CCC backup of the mac boot drive, so recovery is not impossible -- but it would be a PITA. This YT video

Anyway, I'd like to move forward with a dual-boot configuration but there's a certain fear factor if I can't disable M.2_1, so... anyone else been there and done that?
Win10 installer wants to install the boot files to the first detected drive in the system, so it really depends on the UEFI/BIOS - what port is detected first - the SATA ports or the M.2 ports. Check with Asus, but if the use of the M.2 port disables a high numbered SATA port then it is probable that the SATA ports are detected first, so if you connect the Win10 drive to the lowest numbered SATA port it would install its boot files to that drive.
 
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@GB thanks, from what I have googled (NB I don't say understood, just read) this is the scoop:

On my mobo use of m.2_1 disables SATA port 1 for some reason (not 0, dunno why) but ONLY if you have it set up as a SATA drive; if it's configured as per default (PCIe) then apparently SATA 1 remains usable.

If you also use m.2_2, I think you then lose SATA 5 and 6 even if it's PCIe, unless you choke it down to x2 which sort of defeats the purpose of SSD; that is what I have read in ASUS forum anyway. But I think I have devices on SATA 4, 5, 6 that are working despite m.2_2 being live. But my m.2_2 is not in the special NVME slot but in a PCIe adapter card... so it may be a pure PCIe device.

So, basically, it's confusing. In any case, I've discovered that my BIOS allows me to disable all SATA devices with one click. So that's what I'm doing. Also unplugging all external USB drives. When I start the Win10 installer boot, the only storage devices are (a) the usb stick, (b) the target SSD m.2_2, (c) the macOS boot SSD m.2_1. But Win10 installer thinks that m.2_2 is disk 0 and m.2_1 is disk 1. This seems weird, but maybe good because the target drive is Drive 0 from its point of view.
 
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@Pollodivienna yup I did finally succeed. Published the success recipe as a Guide:


to make it more accessible.

I was lost for a couple of days in total confusion because I didn't understand that Win10 had clobbered part of the Clover bootloader setup. Once I understood better what was going on, and implemented the fix that makes Clover immune to being stomped, it all worked.
 
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