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2013 Mac Pro - My variation

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I have a question that might have been already been answered,

Usually when building a computer you have a front panel or f_panel connector that goes to a power button. How do you plan on doing a power button or do you need one at all, like using the power button on the psu.

Looks great!, Brett

Yep, you still need a power button. Right now I just have a power button ripped out of an old PC plugged into the front panel header. It will be replaced with one that I got off ebay and add it to the IO panel. It has a lighted ring around it I'll tie to the power LED on the front panel header.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141177364285

The Silverstone PSU has no power switch.
 
JuanLobo, You're running great, has a wonderful look! :thumbup: What I do not understand is why the PSU is flipped with fan propelling hot air up instead of being in his current position with the fan pushing the air out through the cracks of 3D print. Maybe you've done the appropriate tests and not generate more heat inside whatever the position of the PSU and fan.
Good choice the Noctua will fit better with the hole diameter of your trashcan to also be approximately 140 mm. Not so? Excellent job! Regards,:)
 
JuanLobo, You're running great, has a wonderful look! :thumbup: What I do not understand is why the PSU is flipped with fan propelling hot air up instead of being in his current position with the fan pushing the air out through the cracks of 3D print. Maybe you've done the appropriate tests and not generate more heat inside whatever the position of the PSU and fan.
Good choice the Noctua will fit better with the hole diameter of your trashcan to also be approximately 140 mm. Not so? Excellent job! Regards,:)


I wanted a uniform airflow, everything pushing air upwards as much as possible. Since the power supply is 80%+ efficient it doesn't generate much heat even under full load. I've tested with Prime95 and Unigine Heaven, and it just puts out warm air. With the added draw of the top fan, I think it will stay even cooler and not have a confused airflow.
 
Finished up the back plate. Cut the top HDMI hole in the IO panel larger with dremel cutoff wheel, and used a grinding bit to make one of the wifi holes 12mm to accept the power switch. It has an LED ring around it. Should have ordered 2 of them, one of them for power, and another for reset. Ahh well, save for another day. I'll be using internal wifi antennas, so I don't need the back panel antenna jacks.

Soldered on the plugs to connect to the front panel headers and used heat-shrink tubing to keep them secure.

If anyone decides to mount a third HDMI above the other two by cutting away at the panel like this, I would suggest setting the plastic side of the IO panel on a wet sponge while using the dremel on it. I didn't and the heat from cutting melted the plastic a little.

The HDMI extension is secured by 2 layers of double sided foam tape between the existing HDMI ports and the extension. The screw adds a little more support.

PowerSwitch.JPGBackIOPanel.JPG
 
JuanLobo, it is looking very good! How are you planning to secure the I/O into the hole in the casing? The plastic is too thick to use the little metal flaps on the I/O plate. Have you any ideas yet about painting the case? Are you going to spray paint it yourself?
 
I can see the homestretch now! Cut the hole in the side of the bin for the IO panel. Made it a little too long, but it will do just fine. The bin fits over the IO without having to cut a slot! It is tight, but it slides over. The IO plate stays attached to the logic board.

The fan grill needs to be cut so it will fit inside, but that should be quick. Then it is time to paint. No idea yet what to do. I am tempted to just go all black. That will have to wait for another weekend.

AllPutTogether.JPGTopView.JPGFanGrillUncut.JPG
 
Far enough along now to post performance stats....

AboutThisMac.pngBluetooth.pngDisk.pngGraphics.pngWifi.pngNetworking.pngAudio.pngHWMonitor.pngDiskSpeed.jpgGeekBench.pngUnigineHeaven.pngUnigineValley.png
 
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