Gigabyte Z490 Vision D (Thunderbolt 3) + i5-10400 + AMD RX 580

[CaseySJ]

@CaseySJ Your guide specifies one to install Windows first if one is aiming for a dual boot machine. Now, Windows is not a necessity for my build but I was curious and created an install drive for W10 after my Catalina build has been up for several days. (breaking rules ...)

Tsk tsk tsk...

The W10 boot drive is not recognized within either the OpenCore bootloader nor the bios. Would presence of an OSX install affect the motherboard's ability to recognize an exFAT boot drive even within the bios?

MacOS drives should be physically disconnected or removed when installing Windows. When the Windows installer starts, it will give you an option to format the disk. It's been a while since I did this, but I was able to create an EFI partition (by choosing "GUID Partition Map" or "GUID Partition Table").

Actually, I would suggest doing this:

• Boot into macOS first with Windows NVMe SSD installed.
• Use Disk Utility to format the Windows M.2 with Format = FAT or exFAT, and Scheme = GUID Partition Map. This will create an EFI partition automatically.
• Then shutdown macOS.
• Turn off power to the system (flip PSU to OFF).
• Physically remove macOS M.2 SSD(s).
• Insert Windows USB Install disk and start up the system.
• When Windows installer begins, it may detect the large FAT/exFAT partition and reformat it to NTFS (or you can do this manually).
• Now Windows will install its boot loader into the EFI partition of the M.2 SSD instead of Master Boot Record (MBR) or anything else.

 

[LaurentMaldo]

Hi guys.
Thanks to the guide my system seems to work perfectly.
There's a weird thing though. When I boot up, In "About my Mac", I can't see my Startup Disk. What I mean is that the "Startup Disk" line doesn't even exist.
I have Processor, Memory... and then Graphics. So weird. I can close and open the window several times, and it doesn't change anything, the line is still missing.
But I noticed that "after a while", if I reopen "about my Mac", I eventually have Processor, Memory, Startup Disk, and Graphics...
Did any of you ever face anything similar?

 

[amarchand]

Tha

Tsk tsk tsk...

MacOS drives should be physically disconnected or removed when installing Windows. When the Windows installer starts, it will give you an option to format the disk. It's been a while since I did this, but I was able to create an EFI partition (by choosing "GUID Partition Map" or "GUID Partition Table").

Actually, I would suggest doing this:

• Boot into macOS first with Windows NVMe SSD installed.
• Use Disk Utility to format the Windows M.2 with Format = FAT or exFAT, and Scheme = GUID Partition Map. This will create an EFI partition automatically.
• Then shutdown macOS.
• Turn off power to the system (flip PSU to OFF).
• Physically remove macOS M.2 SSD(s).
• Insert Windows USB Install disk and start up the system.
• When Windows installer begins, it may detect the large FAT/exFAT partition and reformat it to NTFS (or you can do this manually).
• Now Windows will install its boot loader into the EFI partition of the M.2 SSD instead of Master Boot Record (MBR) or anything else.

Thank you @CaseySJ . I will be attempting this later today and will report back with results.

 

[hughythomas]

Lovely setup! Some questions and comments:

• Is the UAD-2 Quad connected via its own PCIe "DSP card"?
• RME Fireface is being used @Giskard @kellymac12 @lambusser @bmoney and others with Z390 Designare. They are experiencing various dropout issues as well. The last 10 pages of the Z390 Designare thread contain an ongoing discussion of the problems and possible workarounds.
• Right now the main issue is USB port stability. We're trying to determine whether offloading several USB 2.0 devices to a Thunderbolt 3 Dock will alleviate the problem. This is still pending.
• So I'm trying to determine whether your issues are also related to USB port stability.

Hi Casey,

Thanks again for the ongoing support here. Extremely kind of you sir!

1. UAD-2 is indeed a PCI-E card physically attached inside my rig
2. I personally never had any drop outs with FF802 and Z390. I was on a Asus Z390-A Prime motherboard.
3. I'm now using samuel's EFI from github found here. It does mention some stuff about USB that I've not done personally and I must admitt I'm by no means an expert. Does the SSDT-USB need to be built seperately for each respective user? Ie. I can't just download someone elses working EFI for that mobo?

Best,

Tom

 

[lightmanrt]

Many Z490 boards are pushing extra current/voltage/heat to the processors. GamersNexus did a test on this and ASRock and Gigabyte are one of the worst offenders.

Don't Run Z490 Motherboards with Default Settings: Thermals, Power, Boosting, & MCE for 10th Gen CPUs

It’s difficult to differentiate motherboards, at least from a marketing perspective. There are definitely better and worse boards, and you can check any of the roundups or reviews Buildzoid has produced for this channel for explanations as to why, but “better” doesn’t mean “higher FPS in games”...

www.gamersnexus.net

You will have to probably undervolt and tweak with the settings to get acceptable heat levels

When I checked Vcore it was 1.63 for 5.1 Ghz. I looked up specs on the i7-10700K and it should be 1.4v. I changed it in BIOS, and the temperature lowered significantly. At 5.1 GHz in BIOS it is 40°C. Everything seem to be working properly with the high temps.

 

[lightmanrt]

When I checked Vcore it was 1.63 for 5.1 GHz. I looked up specs on the i7-10700K and it should be 1.4v. I changed it in bios and the temperature lowered significantly. At 5.1 GHz in bios it is 40°C. Everything seems to be working properly without the high temps.

 

[lightmanrt]

It's very strange, because my 10700K on stock clocks with Kraken M22 (120mm liquid cooler!) runs on ~60-75° all time and about 35-38° in idle (now is 38°, but in my room 30° now... summer). In stress test it can run to 95° but in games and work no more than 80°. With "advanced" profile (first string in "tweaks" page in BIOS) in stress test temp can be 99° for 1-2 cores, but now I'm using only "default", I need to upgrade my cooler to use overclocking features.

Check your cooling system: pump speed, fans speed etc.

When I checked Vcore it was 1.63 for 5.1 GHz. I looked up specs on the i7-10700K and it should be 1.4v. I changed it in BIOS and the temperature lowered significantly. At 5.1 GHz in bios it is 40°C. Everything seems to be working properly without the high temps.

 

[inapis.crazy]

When I checked Vcore it was 1.63 for 5.1 Ghz. I looked up specs on the i7-10700K and it should be 1.4v. I changed it in BIOS, and the temperature lowered significantly. At 5.1 GHz in BIOS it is 40°C. Everything seem to be working properly with the high temps.

That's a 15 degree drop? Good god! Gigabyte needs to tone it down.

 

[Ayvan]

When I checked Vcore it was 1.63 for 5.1 GHz. I looked up specs on the i7-10700K and it should be 1.4v. I changed it in BIOS and the temperature lowered significantly. At 5.1 GHz in bios it is 40°C. Everything seems to be working properly without the high temps.

Where and what you change in BIOS settings?

 

[lightmanrt]

Under tweeking, Vcore. With Vcore set to auto the Vcore voltage was 1.63.