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[SUCCESS] Gigabyte Designare Z390 (Thunderbolt 3) + i7-9700K + AMD RX 580

was downloaded hackintool link

thkx waht is the difference beetwen 2.5k and 5.0 clover because may clover is 2.5k
 
I highly recommend Noctua D15s - it fits perfectly! I made a mistake of originally ordering Noctua D15 (without s), and the video card could not be inserted into PCIe x16 slot, but only in the second slot (PCIe x8). Truth be told, you won't notice any difference in performance between the slots, however, you will be limiting yourself in the future if you decide to use a second graphics card. So go with Noctua D15s. It's an awesome cooler - same as Noctua D15, but slightly different shape (asymmetrical).

PS. One important thing to note: Noctua D15s - comes with only one fan. If you want the second one (comes by default with Noctua D15), get the NF-A12x25 PWM (it's a 120mm version instead of the 140mm). If you get 140mm, the ram sticks will be in the way and the fan won't fit.



It depends on your future plans. If you plan to extend ram in several years to 64gb, then go with 2x16gb. If 32gb is all you'll ever need, then 4x8gb is perfectly fine. Other than the possibility of expansion, there's really not much difference.

I have a Noctua D15 (taken from my previous Z170 build) and a RX480 in slot 2. Works fine. Pity I've lost my x16 slot though.
 
Awesome!! This is truly great to hear because QNAP Thunderbolt-based devices have never worked on this system ... until now! Flashing the firmware via external flasher may not be the most elegant solution, but it gets the job done -- with some patience and perseverance.

I've been meaning to replace my 8 year old QNAP for some time. Activation of Thunderbolt Bus makes their entire desktop product lineup available to Hackintosh users.

By the way, after entering thunderbolt in the IORegistryExplorer search field, subsequently click the [x] on the right side of the search field. That will show you the entire Thunderbolt tree instead of just the nodes containing the word "thunderbolt".

@CaseySJ

I noticed something else after flashing the thunderbolt firmware: Netflix is working in Safari on my Samsung thunderbolt screen! Might be that the firmware mod also solves the DRM issue in this case/connection...
 
My experience is very strange i'm in 10.15.4 finally


i have only updated in Release v5.0 r5107 like links @peetbeat

Of course my kext is updated also

i have reboot like @CaseySJ said me


I have update like @CaseySJ procedure

And i'm going to preboot etc....

Update is going but juste one reboot and at the end error update message at the end of minutes

reboot and i'm on 10.15.4

TEst of my uad everything is ok on TB3


very strange
 
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Thanks for your reply! I followed all the steps (removed ethernet connections and the NetworkInterfaces.plist, rebooted, signed in to Messages on my MacBook Pro) and when I tried to log in on my Hackintosh I still got the error "An error occurred during authentication", along with the code to contact customer support. That's really unfortunate. I don't really know what else I can do, apart from reinstalling macOS from scratch, which is the last thing I want to do (since I've spent so much time tweaking the OS to the current state).
It takes only about 1 hour to perform a fresh Catalina installation on a spare SSD. It's not necessary to delete the existing macOS.
  • If the fresh install works, we can assume something is configured incorrectly in the main disk.
  • If the fresh install also fails, we can assume the problem lies with the "back end" of Messages/FaceTime.
    • Try logging out of Messages/FaceTime/iCloud on Hackintosh and all real Macs, iPhones, iPads.
    • Then log back in on all real Apple devices.
    • Then try logging back on Hackintosh.
 
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Thanks for your reply! I followed all the steps (removed ethernet connections and the NetworkInterfaces.plist, rebooted, signed in to Messages on my MacBook Pro) and when I tried to log in on my Hackintosh I still got the error "An error occurred during authentication", along with the code to contact customer support. That's really unfortunate. I don't really know what else I can do, apart from reinstalling macOS from scratch, which is the last thing I want to do (since I've spent so much time tweaking the OS to the current state).
I sympathize with you saying that the last thing you want to do is a reinstall.

however, if you have an external hard disk sitting around, or even a spare USB stick (probably needs to be 32gb but a 16 may work, not sure the installed size of Catalina) you could try using that for a fresh install just to see if Messages work.

EDIT--I see CaseySJ beat me to the punch!
 
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Here’s a screenshot (iMac19,1 SMBIOS with correct SSDT):
View attachment 456843

Good -- this at least confirms that the right DROM is being injected. However, the two USB ports under DSB2 are not present. The full device tree should look like this:
Screen Shot 2020-03-25 at 4.16.27 AM.png
Can you please compress and post your CLOVER folder? Please remove serial numbers from SMBIOS before posting. I can try booting my test bench with exactly your files to see what happens.
I have just one macOS system SSD and it was always booting from the correct EFI folder when trying.
And yes, two times flashrom reported that the chip was in an Unknown State, and then when I tried the third time with Raspberry Pi (plus 2K resistor and 47uF cap) the flash attempt seemed to work: It reported "verified" with exactly the same output that it should report according to your guide.
I am not implying anything in particular by saying this, but before building the Resistor/Capacitor circuit I damaged the flash chip on my Asus ThunderboltEX 3 add-in-card. I can read from it, but erase/write functions are completely inoperative. Flashrom reports that the device is in an "unknown state".

Anyway, let me first boot my test bench with your files.
I would love to read the chip contents and compare the checksum, but I have been trying for four hours now to get flashrom to recognize that there’s a chip connected again, but no chance. Mostly yellow or orange light, sometimes after lots of wiggling red light, but obviously not the "correct" connection. I have two clips, one with a quite firm connection which is ALWAYS yellow or light orange, no matter what I do, and one where the pins already seem to slip away when trying (because I’ve been doing so for hours).
Always be gentle with those clips! And it's okay to stop and try again the next day. As the late Kenny Rogers sang, "You've got to know when to hold 'em" and "know when to walk away". So absolutely do not force it...
It would be easier to solder out the chip than trying to get the right connection ;-) In fact I think I could manage that, because I have enough soldering experience. But since it’s really super small I would like to be sure before that it’s really necessary to do so.
My own desoldering parts and replacement Winbond chips are getting delivered slowly. I plan to replace the damaged chip on the Asus ThunderboltEX 3, but that's a cheap $30 board on eBay. Let me test your files first...
 
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I want to buy Noctua D15 for my build but I will need to put my graphic card to the second pcie slot. Would it cause any stability problem ?
I highly recommend Noctua D15s - it fits perfectly! I made a mistake of originally ordering Noctua D15 (without s), and the video card could not be inserted into PCIe x16 slot, but only in the second slot (PCIe x8). Truth be told, you won't notice any difference in performance between the slots, however, you will be limiting yourself in the future if you decide to use a second graphics card. So go with Noctua D15s. It's an awesome cooler - same as Noctua D15, but slightly different shape (asymmetrical).

PS. One important thing to note: Noctua D15s - comes with only one fan. If you want the second one (comes by default with Noctua D15), get the NF-A12x25 PWM (it's a 120mm version instead of the 140mm). If you get 140mm, the ram sticks will be in the way and the fan won't fit.
I agree completely. There are so many different air coolers on the market designed to fit all kinds of form factors and installation constraints. Why would anyone want to block the most important PCIe slot on the system for a tiny little micro iota of air flow?
Do you recommend 2x16gb or 4x8gb ram and 2666mhz is the best for the stability ?
It depends on your future plans. If you plan to extend ram in several years to 64gb, then go with 2x16gb. If 32gb is all you'll ever need, then 4x8gb is perfectly fine. Other than the possibility of expansion, there's really not much difference.
Again, I would agree completely. We've only had problems with 32GB DIMMs (one DIMM with 32GB), but even that problem is fixed with Clover 5103 and newer.
 
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