[SUCCESS] Gigabyte Designare Z390 (Thunderbolt 3) + i7-9700K + AMD RX 580

[Ploddles]

Enable NVRAM - the easy way?
There is a newer Grub tool that seems to unlock MSR and let us keep this change as a BIOS setting. Look for Unlock MSR here. In short:
At the Grub prompt, enter:
Code: setup_var_3 0x5C1 0x0 (same as our Designare board)
Reboot into BIOS.
Save your BIOS settings profile to USB flash drive. Done!
If your BIOS ever resets itself, you won't have to manually unlock MSR again, just load your BIOS setting profile and MSR will be unlocked.
(I'm sorry, cannot test this myself)

Why can't you test it yourself?

 

[nels1]

Please backup your existing CLOVER folder and try the modified one attached here. Copy serial numbers back into SMBIOS prior to use. No guarantees this will fix all issues, but it should be a step in the right direction. Also, I've replaced OsxAptioFix2Drv-free2000.efi with OcQuirks-4.efi and FwRuntimeServices.efi. Should you encounter the dreaded Couldn't allocate runtime area error upon boot (or the no-entry symbol), please perform a CMOS Reset according to the Designare Owner's Manual then configure BIOS parameters again and finally boot back into macOS.

Hey Casey,

I followed your recommendation but I still have the very same bug.
So I kept your new EFI as the modifications you've made will help others aspect according to what I've read about the files you replaced. So my problem is very clear, My machine works only with the old WEG, Lilu, SMC kexts. I've also checked that the versions was the same in L/E and in /Other and finally I end up by just leave those kexts in Other, as I read that it's better to have them in one of those places only the AppleAlc that you placed here is in both...
I really can't think why I can't update SMC, Lilu and WEG. I hope my system will work anyway...I'm not planing Catalina upgrade before 10-12 months...

 

[Ploddles]

...I'm not planing Catalina upgrade before 10-12 months...

No doubt the next version of macOS will be out by then

 

[lutin]

Why can't you test it yourself?

Travelling for a good while...

 

[c0c0p0ps]

I'm thinking of creating an illustrated Mini-Guide using low-cost parts so that anyone wishing to flash their cards can do so cheaply, privately, and assume all risk for themselves.

--- Early Prep Info ---

CH341a Chip Reader/Programmer:

• I have both a low-cost and a high-cost chip reader/programmer.
  • Low-cost version is this onefrom Amazon.
    • This device can be used under Windows and also under macOS using flashrom in Terminal.

Really looking forward to seeing your step by step for this. Am UK based so was wondering if this would be an acceptable low cost version as it seems to have the 3.3v jumper you have mentioned?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SNTL5V6/?tag=tonymacx86-21

 

[qthegaijin]

Been following this thread for some time now. I am in the process of building up an older z170x board for thunderbolt testing purposes since at one point my main z170x-designare board was working with my Antelope Audio Orion Studio over thunderbolt until my latest update of MacOS and Bios.

Antelope Audio Working Combination:
Bios: F20
TB Security: No Security
Mac OS: 10.12.4
TB behavior: No hotplug but full functioning audio/network

Not Working Anymore:
Bios: F20
TB Security: No Security
Mac OS: 10.12.6
Tb behavior: No hotplug, no audio/network

Bios: F20
TB Security: No Security
Mac OS: 10.14.6
Tb behavior: No hotplug, no audio/network

Bios: F23g
TB Security: No Security
Mac OS: 10.14.6
Tb behavior: No hotplug, no audio/network

Once the motherboard arrives and I set the system up I will post results and probably be requesting someone with a bit more knowhow than me to show me what files they need to see the differences.

In another weird observation, which may or may not help, is I compared the old TB drivers with 10.12.4 and 10.12.6 and they are different:

I have a titan ridge card I can modify as well, just waiting on the programming/flashing guide.

 

[CaseySJ]

Really looking forward to seeing your step by step for this. Am UK based so was wondering if this would be an acceptable low cost version as it seems to have the 3.3v jumper you have mentioned?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SNTL5V6/?tag=tonymacx86-21

Good question, and in fact this can be tricky...

• If you look at pages 30 and 31 of the MacRumors thread, you'll see that this particular device outputs 5V. To convert it to 3.3V means soldering pin 28 of the large chip to the 3V3 line.
• The version I have has a different PCB layout. I used a multimeter to measure the voltage across Pins 4 and 8 of the output (not pins 4 and 8 of any chip soldered to the PCB). That voltage -- on my version -- is already 3.3V.
• So if you compare the photos of my version and the one in your link, you can see the layout differences.
• If you have a multimeter, you can always measure the voltage across output pins 4 and 8, and return/exchange the unit if it's 5V.

The Revelprog-IS, however, has software based settings for voltage.

 

[scottkendall]

I'm thinking of creating an illustrated Mini-Guide using low-cost parts so that anyone wishing to flash their cards can do so cheaply, privately, and assume all risk for themselves.

I do understand there is a risk but I would be more comfortable with someone who has done it a few times. But I will look out for your guide if you get to it, unlike many people on this forum I do not need TB3 I just would like to have it.

 

[nels1]

No doubt the next version of macOS will be out by then

I hope...lol As my main application is Music production, I'm always one system back.
There's so much plugins + usb outboard I'm using not yet compatible...

 

[c0c0p0ps]

Good question, and in fact this can be tricky...

• If you look at pages 30 and 31 of the MacRumors thread, you'll see that this particular device outputs 5V. To convert it to 3.3V means soldering pin 28 of the large chip to the 3V3 line.
• The version I have has a different PCB layout. I used a multimeter to measure the voltage across Pins 4 and 8 of the output (not pins 4 and 8 of any chip soldered to the PCB). That voltage -- on my version -- is already 3.3V.
• So if you compare the photos of my version and the one in your link, you can see the layout differences.
• If you have a multimeter, you can always measure the voltage across output pins 4 and 8, and return/exchange the unit if it's 5V.

The Revelprog-IS, however, has software based settings for voltage.

I saw the discussion about having to solder the board on macrumors which is why I thought I should check! The amazon link you posted for your low cost programmer doesn’t seem to find anything for me in the U.K.?

CH341A 24 25 Series EEPROM Flash BIOS USB Programmer Module USB to TTL 3.3V - 5V | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for CH341A 24 25 Series EEPROM Flash BIOS USB Programmer Module USB to TTL 3.3V - 5V at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

rover.ebay.com

Found this option on eBay over here that says it outputs at 3.3v so would this be safer? I am guessing using the other one without adding that extra wire between the pins would probably fry the Titan ridge chip?