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[SUCCESS] Gigabyte Designare Z390 (Thunderbolt 3) + i7-9700K + AMD RX 580

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I'm thinking of creating an illustrated Mini-Guide using low-cost parts so that anyone wishing to flash their cards can do so cheaply, privately, and assume all risk for themselves. :)

--- Early Prep Info ---

CH341a Chip Reader/Programmer:
  • I have both a low-cost and a high-cost chip reader/programmer.
    • Low-cost version is this onefrom Amazon.
      • This device can be used under Windows and also under macOS using flashrom in Terminal.
Really looking forward to seeing your step by step for this. Am UK based so was wondering if this would be an acceptable low cost version as it seems to have the 3.3v jumper you have mentioned?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SNTL5V6/?tag=tonymacx86-21
 
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Been following this thread for some time now. I am in the process of building up an older z170x board for thunderbolt testing purposes since at one point my main z170x-designare board was working with my Antelope Audio Orion Studio over thunderbolt until my latest update of MacOS and Bios.

Antelope Audio Working Combination:
Bios: F20
TB Security: No Security
Mac OS: 10.12.4
TB behavior: No hotplug but full functioning audio/network

Not Working Anymore:
Bios: F20
TB Security: No Security
Mac OS: 10.12.6
Tb behavior: No hotplug, no audio/network

Bios: F20
TB Security: No Security
Mac OS: 10.14.6
Tb behavior: No hotplug, no audio/network

Bios: F23g
TB Security: No Security
Mac OS: 10.14.6
Tb behavior: No hotplug, no audio/network

Once the motherboard arrives and I set the system up I will post results and probably be requesting someone with a bit more knowhow than me to show me what files they need to see the differences.

In another weird observation, which may or may not help, is I compared the old TB drivers with 10.12.4 and 10.12.6 and they are different:



Screen Shot 2020-03-01 at 10.36.46 AM.png


I have a titan ridge card I can modify as well, just waiting on the programming/flashing guide.
 

CaseySJ

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Really looking forward to seeing your step by step for this. Am UK based so was wondering if this would be an acceptable low cost version as it seems to have the 3.3v jumper you have mentioned?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SNTL5V6/?tag=tonymacx86-21
Good question, and in fact this can be tricky...
  • If you look at pages 30 and 31 of the MacRumors thread, you'll see that this particular device outputs 5V. To convert it to 3.3V means soldering pin 28 of the large chip to the 3V3 line.
  • The version I have has a different PCB layout. I used a multimeter to measure the voltage across Pins 4 and 8 of the output (not pins 4 and 8 of any chip soldered to the PCB). That voltage -- on my version -- is already 3.3V.
  • So if you compare the photos of my version and the one in your link, you can see the layout differences.
  • If you have a multimeter, you can always measure the voltage across output pins 4 and 8, and return/exchange the unit if it's 5V.
The Revelprog-IS, however, has software based settings for voltage.
 
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I'm thinking of creating an illustrated Mini-Guide using low-cost parts so that anyone wishing to flash their cards can do so cheaply, privately, and assume all risk for themselves. :)

I do understand there is a risk but I would be more comfortable with someone who has done it a few times. But I will look out for your guide if you get to it, unlike many people on this forum I do not need TB3 I just would like to have it.
 
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No doubt the next version of macOS will be out by then :beachball:
I hope...lol As my main application is Music production, I'm always one system back.
There's so much plugins + usb outboard I'm using not yet compatible...
 
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Good question, and in fact this can be tricky...
  • If you look at pages 30 and 31 of the MacRumors thread, you'll see that this particular device outputs 5V. To convert it to 3.3V means soldering pin 28 of the large chip to the 3V3 line.
  • The version I have has a different PCB layout. I used a multimeter to measure the voltage across Pins 4 and 8 of the output (not pins 4 and 8 of any chip soldered to the PCB). That voltage -- on my version -- is already 3.3V.
  • So if you compare the photos of my version and the one in your link, you can see the layout differences.
  • If you have a multimeter, you can always measure the voltage across output pins 4 and 8, and return/exchange the unit if it's 5V.
The Revelprog-IS, however, has software based settings for voltage.
I saw the discussion about having to solder the board on macrumors which is why I thought I should check! The amazon link you posted for your low cost programmer doesn’t seem to find anything for me in the U.K.?


Found this option on eBay over here that says it outputs at 3.3v so would this be safer? I am guessing using the other one without adding that extra wire between the pins would probably fry the Titan ridge chip?
 

CaseySJ

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I saw the discussion about having to solder the board on macrumors which is why I thought I should check! The amazon link you posted for your low cost programmer doesn’t seem to find anything for me in the U.K.?


Found this option on eBay over here that says it outputs at 3.3v so would this be safer? I am guessing using the other one without adding that extra wire between the pins would probably fry the Titan ridge chip?
Do you have a Raspberry Pi? We can use its GPIO pins and run “flashrom” on Linux.

I should add this to the guide!
 
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Do you have a Raspberry Pi? We can use its GPIO pins and run “flashrom” on Linux.

I should add this to the guide!
I do have an original Pi model B I think. Would that cut it?

another alternate I found is this one?
 
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hi guys, anyone got SIDECAR perfectly functional?
Mine still blurry and glitch. :banghead:
Any idea on how get this fixed?

I'm using the FENVI T919 and everything else works perfectly (wifi, bluetooth and airdrop)

The Problem:

My config:
Screen Shot 2020-03-01 at 17.07.59.png


Thanks =)
 
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