[SUCCESS] Gigabyte Designare Z390 (Thunderbolt 3) + i7-9700K + AMD RX 580

[CaseySJ]

I finally made it to step 1. So, I recreated the USB on another Mac. I have a 2018 MacBook Air that has Mojave. I initially was using my 2010 MacBook that HighSierra. The reason I didn't use the MacBook Air, was because that's my work laptop so I try to keep all personal stuff off of it.

Anyway, I followed all the instructions to redo the USB, while unchecking "Plugin Type".

So right now I'm at the Disk Utility, no RX 580 installed, and Bios setup the way you recently recommended. Now, my question is, when I complete this first phase, and move on to the second phase, should I install the RX 580 then and put everything back in the bios as per your OP recommendations?

Once everything is installed and running (without RX 580), back up the system to establish a baseline. Let the system run for a couple of days to become familiar with the system. Then take a deep breath, put the RX 580 back in, set BIOS —> Initial Display Output —> PCI Slot 1 and prepare for the next fight!

Some RX 580 cards are completely problem free while others — due perhaps to VBIOS — tend to be a bit finicky. There are several ways of dealing with them, but no one method applies to all. So it will be another iterative process to find a workable solution.

 

[gyrene2083]

Roger that, I will let it sit for the week, and go back to the grind on Saturday. I appreciate all that you do, and for having patience with an 'Ole Grumpy Marine....

-Semper Fi

 

[faithie999]

*** USB SSDT Updated to Version 6 ***

On this system we are connecting permanent devices to the motherboard's F_USB (USB 2.0) header that controls HS11 and HS12. These devices include:

• Bluetooth data cable from a Broadcom WiFi/BT card.
• CPU coolers that require a USB 2.0 connection.
• Wireless remote controlled Power and Reset switch (SilverStone switch described in Components section)
• Other devices that will not be hot-swapped.

Up to now, USB ports HS11 and HS12 were configured for ejectable / hot-swappable devices. But for improved Sleep/Wake compatibility with a wider set of PCIe cards, ports HS11 and HS12 have been reconfigured as Internal. This means we should not connect F_USB to front-panel ports (ports on the PC case). Instead, we should only connect devices that will not be removed during use.

The new USB SSDT is available in the updated Post-Install Files.zip attached to the bottom of Post 1. The filename is:

• SSDT-UIAC-DESIGNARE-Z390-V6.aml

Everyone is encouraged to replace earlier versions with V6, but to keep a backup of the previous version just in case unexpected problems are encountered.

To install, backup then delete the previous version and copy new one to CLOVER/ACPI/patched folder in the EFI partition of the Mojave SSD.

Thanks to @JimSalabim for the discovery of this issue.

an "A" for the day for JimSalabim!! I have been working for the past several hours on this problem!! now my wifi/BT pci-e card doesn't cause instant wake from sleep!

now I need to find a usb 2 pci-e card with an internal header socket so I can use my front USB2 ports.

thanks!!

 

[faithie999]

@CaseySJ--I just looked at the internal header splitter from Amazon that you specified in your build list. While the connector for the motherboard is a 9 (10)-pin connector, it looks like the plug only has 4 wires. So it is just connecting to one of the internal ports--either HS 11 or 12. If I were to re-wire the splitter's 9(10) pin plug to a 4(5) pin plug, and then re-wire the USB plug from the wifi/BT pic-e card to a 4(5) pin plug, I can plug both the splitter and the PC card into the internal header, right? Then I can determine which of HS11 or HS12 the BT card is plugged into, set that one to internal (0xFF) and the other "half" set to 0x00. S'pose this will work?
Thanks!

ken

 

[CaseySJ]

@CaseySJ--I just looked at the internal header splitter from Amazon that you specified in your build list. While the connector for the motherboard is a 9 (10)-pin connector, it looks like the plug only has 4 wires. So it is just connecting to one of the internal ports--either HS 11 or 12. If I were to re-wire the splitter's 9(10) pin plug to a 4(5) pin plug, and then re-wire the USB plug from the wifi/BT pic-e card to a 4(5) pin plug, I can plug both the splitter and the PC card into the internal header, right? Then I can determine which of HS11 or HS12 the BT card is plugged into, set that one to internal (0xFF) and the other "half" set to 0x00. S'pose this will work?
Thanks!

ken

Good question! The 2-port and 4-port splitters incorporate a USB hub. In my case the 4-way splitter places a hub at HS12, which allows 4 USB devices to be connected. However, all devices on a USB hub share the bandwidth of one USB bus. Because I have low-bandwidth devices connected to the splitter, I don't saturate the bus.

What you suggest is totally feasible -- you can rewire the splitter with a 4(5) pin plug and rewire the Bluetooth data cable to a 4(5) pin plug as well. This will connect the two devices to two separate USB buses for better overall throughput. However, if you're using multiple low speed devices then it may be more convenient to buy a 4-way splitter instead.

• Bluetooth 4.x operates at about 24-25 Mbps.
• USB 2.0 has a bandwidth of 480 Mbps.
• Bluetooth, therefore, does not come close to saturating the USB 2 bus.

 

[CaseySJ]

Roger that, I will let it sit for the week, and go back to the grind on Saturday. I appreciate all that you do, and for having patience with an 'Ole Grumpy Marine....

-Semper Fi

Very glad to be of service (in return)! Please keep us updated on your progress.

 

[sparkyboy767]

Ouch... Memtest is the logical next step.

Just to follow up on this, I tried running Memtest86 a bunch of times (since running Memtest in MacOS kept resulting in reboots). First time showed up 2 errors on Test 6. Second time it ran without errors. Third time it ran fine until the third pass, when the system crashed and rebooted. Tried lowering the RAM speeds, and also upping the voltage, which seemed to increase stability, but didn't solve the problem altogether (reboots occurred less frequently than before). At my wits end, I decided to reseat the RAM, just in case there was an issue with how I'd installed it. That's when I discovered that the ATX power connector on the motherboard was loose . Plugged it in properly, and my system seems to be back to its normal stable self... so far, anyway! It must have come a bit loose when I was moving the tower around, because the system was stable when I first set it up, and only became unstable after I moved it to tidy up all the cables behind my desk. Anyway, moral of the story is to double check all your work, especially all your hardware connections!

 

[IdoZ]

Your configuration looks pretty good with the exception of a couple of small tweaks to config.plist. I would suggest:

• Try the attached modified config.plist that has these changes:
  • Boot --> darkwake = 1 changed to darkwake = 0
  • Devices --> USB Inject = checked, USB Fix Ownership = checked, USB High Current = checked
  • Devices --> Audio --> ResetHDA = checked
• Download the new Post-Install Files.zip and replace the following files:
  • CLOVER/ACPI/patched --> replace SSDT-UIAC-DESIGNARE-Z390-V5.aml with V6.
  • CLOVER/drivers64UEFI --> replace VBoxHFS-64.efi with HFSPlus-64.efi.

I'll try it and keep you posted, thanks!

 

[KristoferG]

I finally received my WIFI/bluetooth card from eBay (a used "Apple PowerMac AC WiFi Bluetooth 4.0 Wireless Card BCM94360CD with PCI-e adapter" ). Wake, hand-off etc all works!

Unfortunately the Magic Mouse is giving me horrible stuttering/lag.

• I have tried with two different magic mouses
• I made sure batteries are charged
• Magic Trackpad works much better, but still yields a little stuttering
• Apple wireless keyboard seems to work flawlessly
• The bluetooth usb cable is connected to the Aorus Elite mother board (HS11) and I made sure the front panel USB ports do not use HS11 (I disconnected the heather to disable them).
• This also happens if I disable wi-fi from the menu bar.
• I use a DP cable to drive the monitor (apparently HDMI is more prone to interfering with bluetooth

When I test using the mouse right on top of the PC case there is no stuttering/lag.

So this seems to be related to the distance to the antennas. The PC case is approx 1,2 m from where I use the mouse.

It seems weird to me that I have these issues with a dedicated wifi/bluetooth card. Any ideas?

 

[maxtools11]

Did you test this in a x1 slot ? Does BT work for you in that ?

Hi
Today I tried in x1 slot.
BT-WIFI work.
(with or without SSDT-DESIGNARE-Z390-NO-CNVW.aml)
I'm Lucky!