@martysmind
Parts List.
The Rotten Apple...
Asus Z87 Sabertooth Motherboard ~$235
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CRJVZOM/
i5 4690K Devils Canyon ~$215
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPRWB9G/
32 GB Pny Ram ~$350
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KMXUSWK/
(Hind sight being 20/20, I would not use PNY ram again. I would opt for Corsair or Kingston. These are advertised with a higher clock speed than they actually have and must be overclocked with a custom XMP profile for optimal performance. This is okay with windows but gets tricky with Mac being that you must flask BIOS etc.. Thats not to mention the RMA issues with one of the sticks when I bought them)
2X 128 GB OCZ SSD ~$100($200)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007R1FH3K/
2X 1 TB Seagate SSHDD ~$80($160)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B99JUBQ/
2X Geforce GTX 760's SLI ~$220($440)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGM8B6O/
750 Watt EVGA PSU ~$75.00
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K85X23O
Mountain Mods ATX (Be sure to select 2x 80mm) ~$55.00
http://www.mountainmods.com/mountain-mods-modular-removable-motherboard-tray-p-56.html
Icy Dock Tough Armor 6 x 2.5' SATA Drive Bay~$90
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009I87Q2U/
I really recommend this drive bay! When using a full size ATX tray in this case there isnt a whole lot of room for 3.5 Inch drives. Not to mention Icy Dock makes a good quality drive bay!
BitFenix Spectre Pro PWM 140mm ~$25($50)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EJIVWK6/
White Illuminated Vandal Resistant Momentary Switch - 22mm ~$15
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6...using_-_Ring_Illumination.html?tl=g52c341s316
Lian Li Pw-IS40AV85AI0 Multi-Media I/O Ports Kit ~$30
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...-SATA_x1_HD_Audio_MIC_EAR_PW-IS40AV85AI0.html
The Total came out to about
$1915.00 for parts.
@HeretoLearn
As you can tell, you are correct, I did end up pawning all of my shoes to afford this build...
@Leronel
The painting is one of the most important parts, in my opinion! If you have pait running or chipping it just makes it look dreadful! The painting process was pretty simple over all though! I did a lot of reading about painting the anodized aluminum and how I wasn't going to get a good adhesion but so far it has been great!
To start out you want to make sure your epoxy is sanded down near perfectly flat, if its not you will see it when you paint.
When spray painting I like to tie a piece of string to what I'm painting so that I can hang it and get the whole thing without having to turn over/move.
Start with a good metal primer, I used Rustolium for both the paint and primer. Put down 1-2 coats of primer(just enough to get good coverage).
Once the primer dries you want to start with your paint. Make sure you have a few hours set aside for this as you'll want to do this all in one shot! Do the first coat with a side to side motion while holding the tip down rather than pressing and releasing. If you do this right you should finish each surface with a 'wet' look to it. You shouldn't be able to see lines from where you sprayed and stopped. Make sure you do the next layer before the first dries completely, you will want it to be 'tacky'. I did this for 4-5 coats.
After the last coat of paint is tacky get ready for clear coat. This is what is going to make it keep looking good over time! Use the same process with clear as paint. I did about another 4-5 coats. Let this dry for about 24-48 hours. When dry use very fine grit sandpaper to remove 'orange peel' and get a mirror finish. I finished it off with a bit of car polish that I had on hand as well.
^ That may be a bit over Kill for a computer case, I was just following a car painting guide when I painted mine. It did come out looking good though!
