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PowerMac G5: Silver Ruby

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Joined
Mar 7, 2012
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57
Motherboard
SilverRuby
CPU
i5 3770K
Graphics
Sapphire RX480
Mac
  1. MacBook Air
  2. Mac mini
Classic Mac
  1. eMac
  2. iBook
  3. iMac
  4. Power Mac
Mobile Phone
  1. iOS
The Start​
I started out with a typical 16 year old kid case housing a Gigabyte X38-DQ6, Q9550 and a set of HD5770's. I named my system "Blue Ruby" after ATi's mascotte and the color of my fans.
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For my next build I decided to go with something a bit more decent and name it "Silver Ruby"
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System Config
Intel Core i5 3570K
Corsair Vengeance CML8GX3M2A1600C9 Low Profile x2
Crucial m4 CT128M4SSD2 128GB
OCZ Vertex 2 64GB
Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B
Cooler Master Real Power M850
Scythe Kama Flow 2 80mm - 1400RPM
Nexus Real Silent D12SL-12 BW x2
Silverstone CFP53B HDD Expansion Kit
PowerMac G5 front panel connector sold by "BlackCH" @insanlynac
Cooler Master Motherboard Tray from a Praetorian case. A mountainmods tray would have been better but in the Netherlands theyll cost you around 90$ incl shipping :(


The Build
Taking the case apart isnt too difficult. Be sure to have a torx screwdriver available. There are many guides available online so if you get stuck google is your friend. I decided to go with a standard atx layout. Heat rises so having a PSU with the fan blowing down into the case, trapping the air more or less, wasnt a good idea.
I decided on the position of the motherboard tray by making a cardboard cutout with the shape and dimensions of the motherboard tray. "BUZZ LIGHTYEAR TO THE RESCUE!"
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After that it was time for cutting using a Dremel multitool. I forgot to take pictures of that DOH! but the idea is to cut in the outline. Check your measurements before each cut and have enough spare Dremel cutting blades available. Youll go through a lot. Then I test fitted the power supply. Its a big baby so it was going to be a tight squeeze with the optical drive in place.
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I wanted to get the case as clean as possible on the inside and have enough space for my cabling so this bit had to go.
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Here you can see that the PSU is as far back as possible. To get around the problem that the cable was going to pose I looked for a power cable with a 45 degree angle. These arent that easy to find but luckily the local electronics shop had one. If you have a flatscreen TV check that powercable if your not sure which you need. Its probably a hooked one. I routed the cable through the inside of the case, behind the motherboard tray to get the power connector close to its stock positition.
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To do this I needed a power connector to splice the cable onto. An old power supply had just the socket I needed.
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I marked down the shape of the socket and started cutting.
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Cutting small bits with a cutting disk isnt easy so it took a lot of filing down to make the socket fit.
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Next step was to make way for the PSU fan. No after pic yet, sorry.
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I marked down the place where the SATA connectors are on the motherboard in relation to the tray. That way I can shove most sata cables under the motherboard tray.
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The Hardware

Fitting a Mugen 2 is a pain so after looking round I found method on Youtube describing the easiest installation method. You put the cooler in its installed position, then you put the box next to it, it has the same height, then you place the motherboard on top of the cooler and box, line the pins up, and screw the cooler onto its backplate.
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Cooler in place. So onto installing everything into the case. Be sure to clean out the case really well after working on it. You dont want metallic conducting dust or particles flying round your hardware.
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I dont have the harddrive tray yet and my fans are also still on the way so for now I assembled the system temporarily without them.
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As you can see the Mugen 2 fits perfectly. The side panel has 1mm clearance over its heatpipes. Anyone looking to use the acrylic divider panel will be disappointed though as it doesnt fit. In my original idea I wanted to fit the G5 CPU cover too but since the Mugen sticks out so much I cant. Maybe the Mountainmods tray is less "thick" and gives you more space.

The next steps are to install the fans, install the HD cage below the optical drive and to replace my HD5770 Crossfire setup with a HD6870 Crossfire one. Ill post an update as soon as this is done :) Any ideas, suggestions, questions or random remarks let me know!

 
Beautiful build so far. Nice work! Curious though, you said

Heat rises so having a PSU with the fan blowing down into the case, trapping the air more or less, wasnt a good idea.


Implying that you didn't want to mount the PSU at the top of the case, but you did just that. Did you realize that the large PSU fan was an intake and not an exhaust fan?

Also, how are you mounting the motherboard tray to the back panel?
 
Beautiful build so far. Nice work! Curious though, you said




Implying that you didn't want to mount the PSU at the top of the case, but you did just that. Did you realize that the large PSU fan was an intake and not an exhaust fan?

Also, how are you mounting the motherboard tray to the back panel?

The PSU fan in this unit is a outtake fan that blows the air from within the case into the PSU. The heat in the PSU can leave through the mesh at the back. What I meant was if you mount it bottom left, so the PSU is upside down, the fan blows down into the PSU. Heat rises so blowing air down into the PSU will trap hot air within the PSU as it cant rise out. Thats the reason going for the standard ATX design the fan now blows the rising warmer air inside the case through the PSU out of the case. Hope this clarifies a bit :)

I didnt mount the tray to the back panel the tray is only screwed in the back of the G5 case. The riser bit, where I cut a slit in for the SATA connectors, rests on the side panel of the case when the case lies down leaving a gap for cabling to run behind the tray. Standing up the screws hold the tray in place so it still touches the side panel and any more screwing wasnt really necessary.
 
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