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- Feb 8, 2013
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In 2018 I spent a lot of time case modding old Apple PowerMac cases, specifically the G3 blue&white, a G4 Sawtooth and two G4 Quicksilvers. Here I am presenting the G4 Quicksilver. The hackintosh parts are not really worth going over, so here are a few points on the case mod. I try to illustrate my point with pictures as best as I can.
Before we begin here is a general point. Just like with the G3 b&w or the G4 Sawtooth case you have to find a motherboard. If you don't use an optical drive it's easier. If you want an optical drive things can easily collide with the optical drive holder, usually it's the RAM sticks or the CPU cooler. Use an mini-ITX board however and you are limited to one PCI slot. There were moments of frustration for me where I found boards where the RAM slots cleared the optical drive yet it was the ATX power connector that screwed me. An example would be the Gigabyte Z87M-D3H (if memory serves), yet on the ASUS P877M the ATX connector is moved a bit away from the top edge.
ASRock to the rescue! At least for Skylake. Their H110M DGS is technically an mATX board, is almost as small as an mini-ITX board and has two PCI slots.
1) I have used parts from The Laser Hive but I have also 3D printed two parts. Later I'd like to publish the files for those. One 3D printed part is for the USB/audio front panel which I designed to work with panels like this. Put those panels on the 3D printed holder and put it behind the ZIP slot. Compared to the G3 b&w 3D printed holder this one is a bit different of course and I spray painted it grey.
2) For the front power switched and LEDs I printed a simple holder panel but unlike with the G3 b&w mod I did not use flat switches and used Lian Li's kit instead. Reason being that I don't have to solder anything and therefore the cables should me more stable. On the G3 b&w on the other hand the soldered cables would easily break off if they got caught somewhere while opening the side panel. The other reason why the Lian Li switches are usable is that the power switch on the G4 Quicksilver has more travel than on the G3 b&w or G4 Sawtooth.
3) Just like with the G3 b&w you can use LED lamps like these to illuminate the side Apple logos.
4) It's debatable whether you want to use the Laser Hive plastic back panel. Compared to the G3 b&w I'd argue that the silver finish of the original Apple parts is harder to fake, but if you use the original Apple parts you are limited to PSUs that fit the one hole that Apple gives you. I went with the 500W Fortron Hexa+. With the Laser Hive kit you are more flexible.
5) Air flow is better than on the G3 b&w or G4 Sawtooth since on the Quicksilvers the inner wind tunnel is an actual tunnel and not some badly designed joke that pushes half of the warm air back in. That plus the fact that case has more holes to take air in and you might get away with not drilling additional holes here.
Before we begin here is a general point. Just like with the G3 b&w or the G4 Sawtooth case you have to find a motherboard. If you don't use an optical drive it's easier. If you want an optical drive things can easily collide with the optical drive holder, usually it's the RAM sticks or the CPU cooler. Use an mini-ITX board however and you are limited to one PCI slot. There were moments of frustration for me where I found boards where the RAM slots cleared the optical drive yet it was the ATX power connector that screwed me. An example would be the Gigabyte Z87M-D3H (if memory serves), yet on the ASUS P877M the ATX connector is moved a bit away from the top edge.
ASRock to the rescue! At least for Skylake. Their H110M DGS is technically an mATX board, is almost as small as an mini-ITX board and has two PCI slots.
1) I have used parts from The Laser Hive but I have also 3D printed two parts. Later I'd like to publish the files for those. One 3D printed part is for the USB/audio front panel which I designed to work with panels like this. Put those panels on the 3D printed holder and put it behind the ZIP slot. Compared to the G3 b&w 3D printed holder this one is a bit different of course and I spray painted it grey.
2) For the front power switched and LEDs I printed a simple holder panel but unlike with the G3 b&w mod I did not use flat switches and used Lian Li's kit instead. Reason being that I don't have to solder anything and therefore the cables should me more stable. On the G3 b&w on the other hand the soldered cables would easily break off if they got caught somewhere while opening the side panel. The other reason why the Lian Li switches are usable is that the power switch on the G4 Quicksilver has more travel than on the G3 b&w or G4 Sawtooth.
3) Just like with the G3 b&w you can use LED lamps like these to illuminate the side Apple logos.
4) It's debatable whether you want to use the Laser Hive plastic back panel. Compared to the G3 b&w I'd argue that the silver finish of the original Apple parts is harder to fake, but if you use the original Apple parts you are limited to PSUs that fit the one hole that Apple gives you. I went with the 500W Fortron Hexa+. With the Laser Hive kit you are more flexible.
5) Air flow is better than on the G3 b&w or G4 Sawtooth since on the Quicksilvers the inner wind tunnel is an actual tunnel and not some badly designed joke that pushes half of the warm air back in. That plus the fact that case has more holes to take air in and you might get away with not drilling additional holes here.
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