Official CustoMac Mini 2012 Guide and Notes (in progress)

[muke]

Has anyone had problems with the underscan slider not working in the Display preferences?

I've got my build (basic customac mini 2012) hooked up to my tv and the overscan is pretty bad. When I try to adjust it nothing seems to happen.

 

[oxidative]

The only issue I had with this was that I ordered my card after I'd already installed my build, and after I tooik the old card out and rebooted with the new card installed, I couldn't get rid of the Bluetooth icon in the finder, and it won't go away no matter what I try. If you create a new user afterwards, it's not an issue, so I could just create a new user, copy my files back over, delete my old account, then create a new account with the same name and copy the files over again. I might do someday but for the moment I can live with a greyed out BT icon.

While pressing the Command (Apple) key, you should be able to click on the BT icon in your menu bar and remove it. Just like moving and removing things with the Dock. I just tried it on mine and it worked as expected but I haven't removed the mini PCIe card. You can use that with most things on the right end of the menu bar.

Speaking of mini PCIe. Anyone have any suggestions for something cool to put in that slot? I don't need the WiFi or the BT so I thought it'd be fun to have something else there but I can't find any decent information specific to Hackintoshes.

 

[oxidative]

Has anyone had problems with the underscan slider not working in the Display preferences?

I've got my build (basic customac mini 2012) hooked up to my tv and the overscan is pretty bad. When I try to adjust it nothing seems to happen.

I had this issue with my Samsung TV and it drove me nuts for a couple of days. I finally figured out the issue: rename the input that you're using to "PC" or equivalent. Really stupid but that worked for me. Also, make sure that you're using the 1080p settings via Multibeast otherwise you might underscan by a couple of inches.

What was really fun is that I was previously using a Mac Mini via DVI to HDMI. So, I had named the input to PC (DVI). When I used the HackMini with that same input, I had the screen fitting properly but no audio. I had to change the input name to PC to get audio.

The best part? NONE of this is mentioned in the Samsung manual.

 

[Hazzardus]

While pressing the Command (Apple) key, you should be able to click on the BT icon in your menu bar and remove it. Just like moving and removing things with the Dock. I just tried it on mine and it worked as expected but I haven't removed the mini PCIe card. You can use that with most things on the right end of the menu bar.

Never knew that. Thanks!

 

[muke]

I had this issue with my Samsung TV and it drove me nuts for a couple of days. I finally figured out the issue: rename the input that you're using to "PC" or equivalent. Really stupid but that worked for me. Also, make sure that you're using the 1080p settings via Multibeast otherwise you might underscan by a couple of inches.

What was really fun is that I was previously using a Mac Mini via DVI to HDMI. So, I had named the input to PC (DVI). When I used the HackMini with that same input, I had the screen fitting properly but no audio. I had to change the input name to PC to get audio.

The best part? NONE of this is mentioned in the Samsung manual.

Wow! Yup, this was my problem. I would have NEVER thought of that in a thousand years. Thank you so much.

 

[heyzerg]

I think it's graphic card issue.

I just reinstall ML from fresh, now sleep work fine, with vt-i enable in BIOS, wake up the display too, but I am using integrate intel HD4000 card

I guess i didn't run multi-beast correctly from previous installation

Only if I set sleep to automatic. If I disable it in SP, and just let the monitor go to sleep, I can hit the power button for sleep, and wake the next day to the login screen by doing the usial keyboard slap/mouse wiggle. Even when I had issues before, I could still SSH into the machine, and also remote in, with display, but the display was not waking, so don't know if that was down to my graphics card or what? Didn't have this issue in this build when I used my XFX 4850 with the ML 4800 kext, but now I'm using an Asus 660ti with the Nvidia drivers so who knows. My 2007 Santa Rosa Macbook Pro doesn't like to wake from sleep on ML either if it's been left a while, I have to reboot that too?

 

[oxidative]

Wow! Yup, this was my problem. I would have NEVER thought of that in a thousand years. Thank you so much.

Do you have a Samsung TV as well? Just curious if this applies to other TV manufacturers. And you're welcome

 

[andycactus]

Thumbs up by the way for this excellent site.
I apologise for repost here but I realise this is where I should have posted 1st. It's the yet another graphics vs sleep oddity. I just don't understand. My sleep is working except for a weird display behaviour: it wakes fine but then goes away for a few minutes.


MB: Gigabyte Z77N-WIFI
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K
RAM: Corsair memory 16GB Vengence Performance Kit (2x8GB) DDR3
Built in HD graphics only for the moment, using on board DVI to a Philips 1680x1050 LCD (few years old).
Mountain Lion 10.8.2.
Network: Ethernet (on board)
Keyboard: Apple extended (wired)
Standard set up on Multibeast using DSDT free
Bluetooth works.
No over-clocking (yet, want to explore base config for now) and virtualisation off in BIOS


which brings me to my only noticeable flaw so far which only lasts for two minutes:


after waking from sleep, logging in, all is well and usable for like a few minutes (maybe 2-4) then the monitor goes black (like a blank screensaver kicks in). I can hear the MacOSX system is still up and pressing keys or mousing does not bring it back. But! If left alone for a minute or two more, display comes back by itself and is no trouble at all then all day long.


Put to sleep again, wake, start work, then after a couple of minutes… blank screen, then a few minutes more back OK again. Occasionally it does not come back so easily.


Note: display does wake from sleep but goes away after a couple of minutes from waking and then almost always comes back after another two.


I do not think It is triggered by anything I am doing in MacOSX when it seems to happen whatever I am doing.
The OS is not asleep, its just the display part and only for a short while. Not touched the BIOS, all standard stuff as far as I can see.


Anyone else? Note I am only on HD4000 off the i5 and had a textbook trouble free install from the get-go thanks to this site and this is the only odd behaviour I have found (so far). Any ideas anyone? It's driving me nuts.

 

[DBP]

USB3 ports work for me but only with USB3 devices. I imagine this will be better resolved when 10.8.3 comes out since technically no Macs until a couple weeks ago had USB3.

Unfortunately not true. The MacBook Pros (including the 15" retina model) and the current MacBook Airs came out with USB3 back in June.

Meanwhile, I started my i3-3225/H77N-WIFI build today.

During the first install I also had an Intel E1000 card in the machine, and in MultiBeast loaded the E1000 drivers as well as the lnx2mac Realtek ones. But it didn't come to life. During this I moved the LAN cable from one Realtek port to another and the networking stopped (didn't start again when I moved it back). I cleaned out the E1000 kext and rebooted (removing the card too): all good again.

Will do a clean install again later to see how things go. I have two boot drives in this machine so it's not too painful to reinstall and try experiments...

I had the case open on my desk, but no WiFi antennas connected. The BT was detected, and paired with my mouse. The mouse connected when it was on, and disconnected when it was off, but didn't actually do anything useful. Tonight I connected up the antennas (even though not using the WiFi which isn't detected at all) and the Bluetooth is fully working. Switched to BT keyboard as well. Are the antennas needed for Bluetooth? Am planning to do some more experiments with this (have both antennas connected: maybe just one needed for BT?).

USB3 ports don't seem to work properly. When I connect my Lexar USB3 card reader the reader is detected but the OS complains about corrupted disk (and System Information doesn't show anything beyond the reader). The card is detected just fine on a USB2 port. Luckily not critical for this machine.

My 1600 MHz RAM is currently detected as 1333 MHz: have to look into that next.

Overall though these are little things.

 

[thierry37]

USB3 ports don't seem to work properly. When I connect my Lexar USB3 card reader the reader is detected but the OS complains about corrupted disk (and System Information doesn't show anything beyond the reader). The card is detected just fine on a USB2 port. Luckily not critical for this machine.

We are also discussing this USB3 / USB2 thing, on this topic: http://www.tonymacx86.com/general-help/77695-usb-3-not-working-2.html#post494551

Seems some people are more lucky than other, depending on the board.

On my GA-B75M-D3H, I can't plug a USB2 drive into USB3 port. It's not recognized.
But the USB3 drive is working in any of the USB ports. (2 and 3)