neilhart's Scratch Build Case # 2

[DBP]

I am running the thing on the bench and have noted that this orientation is keeping my memory cool and I have planned to use a 40mm fan mounted on or above the Q77 chip. On the list of things to do is a thermal map the board in a case mock-up.

Any airflow across the first RAM SO-DIMM will presumably pass right over the SO-DIMM underneath it. And I'm not sure how much cooling the RAM actually needs (given that you're not overclocking it or other crazy things).
While that airflow doesn't hurt, and a fan over the Q77 will definitely cool it, I can't help thinking that merely rotating the NH-L9i and not using an extra fan would produce a setup that's "cool enough", and with no added fan noise (or space for the 40mm fan).

Of course, once it goes into a case that will help redirect the air (e.g. by circulating it gently past the RAM on its way to a vent after it's run through the Q77 heatsink, etc). I suspect the Q77 will benefit from cooling more than the RAM, although monitoring the system with a thermal camera is usually enlightening!

Just an option to consider. I look forward to seeing the final setup!

 

[neilhart]

A short update:

I have the scratch build mid-way towards completion. The first photo is the motherboard, CPU cooler, Chip-set cooler, front USB ports, and SATA hard drive (located under the MB mounting plate). Also a print of the front plate that is in process.
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Then I have the case starting to come together, here held by blue tape so that I can proceed with some thermal evaluations.
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And the temps with this setup running for about 30 minutes.
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I covered the top completely and over time I get the CPU temps up to 70C and the CPU fan up to 1180 RPM. So I will go will a top opening of some sort.

And the objective of a noiseless system seems to be possible... I am a little hard of hearing... ha ha.

Have fun hacking,
neil

 

[MacTester57]

And the objective of a noiseless system seems to be possible... I am a little hard of hearing... ha ha.

Me too. I only hear things, that I want to hear!

Seriously: Did you check your temps with "Prime95" too? The CPU will produce much more heat than with Geekbench.

You could drill some small holes on the top to allow the CPU fan to suck in cool air and mount a tunnel sideways on the CPU-cooler-lamellas, which will lead the heat directly to the back side and out of the case.

MacTester

 

[neilhart]

Me too. I only hear things, that I want to hear!

Seriously: Did you check your temps with "Prime95" too? The CPU will produce much more heat than with Geekbench.

You could drill some small holes on the top to allow the CPU fan to suck in cool air and mount a tunnel sideways on the CPU-cooler-lamellas, which will lead the heat directly to the back side and out of the case.

MacTester

Yes, Prime95 took the max temp from 46C to 54C in fairly short order. I ran it for about a hour and bounced to 55C and 56C a few times but stabilized at 54C. I am very pleased that this MB and CPU run this cool.

The case design is moving around but should decide soon.

neil

 

[neilhart]

Another short update:

I wanted to add Bluetooth to this build. I have several BT dongles and searched the web for an adapter from the single USB header (located near the SATA ports) to USB A female and could only find dual port adapters and short cable assemblies. Then !!! it dawned on me that I could make one up from the bits and pieces that I collect.
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So I found these.

Checked the web for the pin out order... in luck the pins match right up and with my extra set of hands, I was able join the parts with solder (after trimming the through-hole tabs from the female socket, and shortening the legs)
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Not too surprised, the finished adapter was too tall for my case (more on that later). So I folded the joined parts as shown and a quick check out and it works. I think that i will add some epoxy to bridge the two part and not rely only on the solder joints.
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The header block often arrives as part of the ASUS motherboard packout and the vertical through hole mount USB receptacle is from Mouser Electronics part # 571-1734366-2 at about $ 1.10 US.

More detail to follow,
neil

 

[neilhart]

Another update:

Some months ago, maybe as much as a year ago I was at Tap Plastics (a retail chain store serving up plastic supplies) and on a whim I purchased a clear acrylic football display case.
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This case is 7" inside on a side and 11 1/2" tall and is made up of two mating cast acrylic pieces. This is a foot print that Mini-ITX would fit into; need I say more?

This is my first project using acrylic for the case. In the past I have just used acrylic sheet material for windows. I learned that using solvent welding on cast acrylic is very un-forgiving of sloppy work. So in the final round, I am cheating and using clear RTV to join the parts as this does not affect the acrylic and I can seperate them if needed (it provides me the ability to redo the design).
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The pieces shown here are cut to the 7" on a side case and a white bottom plate larger to account for the case wall thickness.

I am using the "StarTech 4 Outlet USB Plate Motherboard Bridge Calbe" sourced from the Microcenter part # 734871 at $7 US.
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Here is white base, drilled to accept a 2 1/2 drive, and the two black 3/8" thick ABS pieces cut into a "C" shape. These pieces are held together with ABS cement.
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Then here we have the 1TB HGST TRAVELSTAR 7200 RPM hard drive, sourced from Fry's, mounted using flat head screws from the bottom.
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The motherboard mounting plate with SATA power cable passing through.
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Then the base assembled.

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The motherboard with USB2 cable and RK-150 Capacitive Touch switch with relay (more on this later). Note that these cables route under the motherboard.
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The tight routing of the USB cables is needed to stay within the less then 7" foot print.
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And this is the "Custom Solution Header" where we pick up ground from pin 2 and 5 VDC Standby Power from pin 9.
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A view of the IO side. I did away with the IO stainless outer plate and retained the inner piece. This part is held inplace with RTV.

Note the open slot below the IO panel. This is left open as path for hot air to exit the case. I have yet to determine if this really helps.
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The system from above the IO looking downward. Note that the cables route under the motherboard on the right side. The left side and IO side are flush with the base. The front has a small space which allow the front USB cable to route under the MB. And I have not decided what to do with the WiFi antenna seen laying free in this photo.
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Right side view. The status LEDs are there but not final. The Bluetooth adapter needs to be potted with epoxy.
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The front. I had the USB port mounting plate machined at Front Panel Express (google it). The touch switch icon needs to be done in higher resolution.

However the system is very pleasing and is fully functional.

Next posting will cover the more and maybe the final case.

Here is a shot of my case parts at the moment.
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And if there is interest, I can share the details on wiring up the rKEY 1.5" Capacitive Touch RK-150 switch.

Later,
neil

 

[ersterhernd]

I don't know how you come up with such innovations Neil.

That cooler would've been great for the cube build if it had been 7mm shorter. I love the way it fits that board leaving the two USB headers in the clear. Unfortunately there just wasn't the height clearance needed.

Watching this thread with interest...


Cheers!

 

[chaosdesigns]

Cool, very cool!!!

It is so enjoyable to see your work, Neil!

chaos

 

[minihack]

Looking really good Neil.

This is my first project using acrylic for the case. In the past I have just used acrylic sheet material for windows. I learned that using solvent welding on cast acrylic is very un-forgiving of sloppy work. So in the final round, I am cheating and using clear RTV to join the parts as this does not affect the acrylic and I can seperate them if needed (it provides me the ability to redo the design).

Acrylic gluing is something I try to avoid too. I do a lot of acrylic work as you know and joining bits together removably and neatly is always a challenge.

Most of my stuff involves using threaded inserts that are inserted into holes or channels. These are cut slightly too small for the insert and then the inserts are heated with the tip of a soldering iron. The insert will then sink gracefully into the plastic and removal of the soldering iron tip from the insert will leave it embedded. This gives an extremely secure way of fixing as the acrylic melts around the insert as it sinks in and then sets again to keep it there.

While I use inserts in this way you can use the same technique to fix a threaded post into acrylic- e.g. for an m3 post, drill a hole of 2.8mm and then heat press in the m3 threaded post. The plastic will melt around the threaded section and then re-set to leave it partially embedded and give you something to secure other parts to.

 

[neilhart]

Looking really good Neil.



Acrylic gluing is something I try to avoid too. I do a lot of acrylic work as you know and joining bits together removably and neatly is always a challenge.

Most of my stuff involves using threaded inserts that are inserted into holes or channels. These are cut slightly too small for the insert and then the inserts are heated with the tip of a soldering iron. The insert will then sink gracefully into the plastic and removal of the soldering iron tip from the insert will leave it embedded. This gives an extremely secure way of fixing as the acrylic melts around the insert as it sinks in and then sets again to keep it there.

While I use inserts in this way you can use the same technique to fix a threaded post into acrylic- e.g. for an m3 post, drill a hole of 2.8mm and then heat press in the m3 threaded post. The plastic will melt around the threaded section and then re-set to leave it partially embedded and give you something to secure other parts to.

Thank you for sharing this information. The setting of threaded posts is something that I might be able to do with the material and tools already owned. At least I have plenty of bits to play with and see for myself.

I have purchased a small supply of clear acrylic sheet material and am toying with ideas for a complete fab up case as a follow on to the one that I have in process.

Keep on keeping on.
neil