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MacTester57's iMac G5 17" (A1058 Model)

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Hi kiwi

Does that mean, that the old code did not work anymore with Yosemite? Could you please post the current version?
No The old code works just fine in Yosemite. The issue occurs only when you enable "Dark Mode", a new Yosemite feature ("System-Prefs/General/Dark-Menu-Bar-And-Dock") that inverts the colours in the menu bar. Problem was that the brightness menu wasn't correctly inverting itself.

The line of code that fixed the issue was:

Code:
    // 10.10 or higher, so setTemplate: is safe
    [statusImage setTemplate:YES];

Full code can be found here:

https://github.com/kiwisincebirth/iMacG5

Kiwi

PS Glad you sorted your monitor problem out
 
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Full code can be found here:

Thanks for adding the slider app to your Github repo.

Finalizing the HDMI connector

The "naked" soldered connector, which is extremely fragile:
20141227-9063.jpg


Securing the extremely thin wires with 2 component glue (UHU plus):
20141227-9064.jpg


and the finished connector, wrapped with insulating tape:
20141228-9066.jpg


Logic board mod

Cutting the board with the Dremel:
20141228-9072.jpg


Insulating the connectors, which will being reused.
step one, not yet fully cut:
20141228-283980.jpg


step two, filling the rest of the gap, after the connector areas were fully separated with the dremel:
20141228-283981.jpg


MacTester
 
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Very interesting, leaving the connectors attached (glued).

Can hardly wait to see more!


Cheers!
 
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Layout test and SMC mounting

Testing the layout. The CPU fan will be mounted too. As you can see, I will try to preserve the DVD and HDD drive:
20141229-293983.jpg


After the clearance with the back cover was carefully tested, I've glued the new SMC standoffs:
20141229-293984.jpg


The new SMC is mounted and the two top fans are plugged in with their original connectors:
20141229-293985.jpg


There is only 1mm clearance between the white connector on the previous pic and the protruding hinge bolt!
20141229-293986.jpg


It appears, that I will be able to keep the original USB connectors. It's visible on the PCB, that their data lines are cut and if I measure, there seems to be no connection anymore between the individual GND and 5V pins. One of the two Firewire ports will probably be replaced with an USB 3 port. I've not yet tested the LAN port. If I remember correctly, kiwi or ersterhernd reported, that he tried to reuse the connector and it didn't work?

Good new year to all

MacTester
 
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External SMC reset switch

The dismantled modem socket. The old innards will be replaced with the reset switch:
20141230-303990.jpg


Filing the opening for the reset button:
20141230-9091.jpg


Gluing the soldered PCB into the old housing:
20141230-9092.jpg


Replacing the single pin DuPont housings:
20141230-303994.jpg


The finished SMC reset switch:
20141230-9093.jpg


Sleep LED and power switch wiring

I’ve decided to solder the power switch wires directly to the contact pin housing (top side of the board), because the solder joints are bigger than with kiwi’s solution:
20141230-303996.jpg


Both GND wires from the switch and for the LED are spliced together on the bottom side:
20141230-304002.jpg


Note: a 330 Ohm Resistor is required for the LED (on the SMC board)

Soldering the contact pins, because I don’t have a crimping tool. The pin and the cable were secured with a sticky pad for easy soldering:
20141230-9095.jpg


The finished LED and power switch cable. The connector will plug into the SMC board:
20141230-304004.jpg



MacTester
 
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It appears, that I will be able to keep the original USB connectors. It's visible on the PCB, that their data lines are cut and if I measure, there seems to be no connection anymore between the individual GND and 5V pins. One of the two Firewire ports will probably be replaced with an USB 3 port. I've not yet tested the LAN port. If I remember correctly, kiwi or ersterhernd reported, that he tried to reuse the connector and it didn't work?

Good new year to all

MacTester
good to see continued progress. Space inside the 17" is certainly limited, will be interested to see where thing go. Yes you are correct I couldn't get the existing ethernet port to function after soldering to the pins. I think ersterhernd found a data sheet on the socket itself, that indicated it had isolation transformers builtin, making it unsuitable for simple extension.

Kiwi
 
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The finished SMC reset switch:

Sleep LED and power switch wiring

I’ve decided to solder the power switch wires directly to the contact pin housing (top side of the board), because the solder joints are bigger than with kiwi’s solution:

MacTester
The reset switch in the modem port is a good idea, but so far I havent had much issue with having to reset SMC, generally it is fairly stable.

Soldering directly to the power switch wasnt an option for me, there just wasn't any room to do so.

I noticed your dremel cut to (I assume isolate) the ethernet port. Just be aware that when I cut the ethernet port off the board, that the power switch became shorted !!! I guess the proximity to the power switch means that a trace is going through that region, or maybe bad luck.

The solution was to file the edges of the opening in the PCB that I had just cut, removing any stray metal, thus remove the short.

Kiwi
 
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This looks beautiful so far, MacTester57. Extremely clean and well thought! I'm looking forwards to your next post. I hope you do keep the original DVD and HDD.
 
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Z68MX-UD2H-B3, DQ77KB, NUC DC53427HYE, NUC D54250WYKH
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This looks beautiful so far, MacTester57. Extremely clean and well thought!

Thanks! but there is still a lot do do.

I noticed your dremel cut to (I assume isolate) the ethernet port. Just be aware that when I cut the ethernet port off the board, that the power switch became shorted !!! I guess the proximity to the power switch means that a trace is going through that region, or maybe bad luck.

The solution was to file the edges of the opening in the PCB that I had just cut, removing any stray metal, thus remove the short.

Just had a similar issue. After soldering wires to the inverter connector I've measured, if there are any shorts. Pin 1 and 2 were shorted! :banghead: So the gaps had to be re-dremled, deburred and then glued again... Lesson learned: always measure for shorts prior to gluing!

SMC power supply wiring:

Replaced the power connector on the SMC board. The new connectors will allow to simply plug the power supply cable:
20141231-314008.jpg


The supply wires (18AWG wires from old ATX PSU's) are directly soldered to the solder joints of the original ATX power connector:
20141231-314014.jpg


First power up:
20141231-314016.jpg


MacTester
 
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This is brilliant work, MacTester! Its a real treat to watch your progress, that SMC board is amazing.

On Christmas Day, we had our entire family over for dinner. My father and brother-in-law were using the A1076 build here for a couple of hours. They both want one built. :eek:

I found 2 prestine A1076 20" units (got really lucky) on Craigslist, each with perfect screen and body. One was practically given away at 20 dollars, the other was 130. Have started on the first one now using much of the same methodology as my own A1076.

Up to my waist in iMac parts again for next couple of months. Its a good thing I enjoy doing it.


Keep up the excellent work!


Cheers!
 
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