MacPro Mod -No Tray, No Cutting, All PCI solutions for I/O

[badix08]

Hi powerpcg5,
Realy nice job , so i wondering where do you get the sata backplane ? is it a home made ?
Thank you for response.

 

[badix08]

Nothing ?

 

[powerpcg5]

Just want to share some photos.

I re-used the original power button on the G5 case as the power button/sleep/restart button for my Hackintosh.

The (2) blue wires you see going on the 8-pin headers are the PWR (+) and (-) wires that go to your motherboard.

So!... using the original PowerMac button:
Quick-press -- turns Hackintosh on (if computer was off)
Press for (1) second -- turns Hackintosh to sleep (if computer is already on)
Quick-press -- wakes up Hackintosh from sleep (if computer is asleep)
Press for (4) seconds -- displays OSX dialogue box for Restart/Sleep/Cancel/Shut-Down

I figured out the wiring for the White LED on the power switch, but sadly it's not accessible from the 8-pin header. One can solder a wire though going from the switch to a spare header terminal, and wire that to the motherboard for Power-On indicator or Hard drive activity.

I think what I'll do is just mount some LEDs on a little PCB board, and mount it behind the front panel and use those for Power ON, and Hard Drive activity. Since the G5 case front panel is somewhat see-through, the LED light's glow will still be visible, without the LED protruding through the front panel.

And a photo of my power supply mod (with covers removed)

In front of the PSU is a Noctua fan, blowing air out to the rear.

I transferred the guts of a normal PC PSU to the frame of the MacPro PSU case.

 

[powerpcg5]

Here's the label for the MacPro case front USB and power switch headers. The +5V is required for the USB port to work, assuming also you connected the USB data cable. (Only the top USB port works though, so I think I may have a mistake in my data cable for the 2nd port...)

 

[powerpcg5]

Using an Arctic Freezer i11 to cool a 4790K (4.4Ghz)
Added a Noctua front fan to the MacPro case, which dropped idle temperature by 2 degrees.

20C idle... not bad for a $25 cpu cooler!
Running Geekbench4, the temps briefly kissed 49C.

 

[powerpcg5]

Drilled a hole on the plastic front fan holder... and mounted a Panel-Mount bezel LED... Now I have an HDD activity light. Thanks to the perforated front panel, you can still see the glow of the lamp.

 

[nadirian]

Drilled a hole on the plastic front fan holder... and mounted a Panel-Mount bezel LED... Now I have an HDD activity light. Thanks to the perforated front panel, you can still see the glow of the lamp.

Hello!

Can you show how you fastened your mobo?

 

[powerpcg5]

Screwed standoffs to an old motherboard, lay it down on chassis, mark where the standoffs landed, and use JB-Weld to glue the standoffs to case (with mobo still attached), and placed weights on top of mobo until JB weld is cured. Unscrew old motherboard.

 

[nadirian]

Screwed standoffs to an old motherboard, lay it down on chassis, mark where the standoffs landed, and use JB-Weld to glue the standoffs to case (with mobo still attached), and placed weights on top of mobo until JB weld is cured. Unscrew old motherboard.

Awesome, thanks!

 

[nadirian]

I removed the ON/OFF switch of the Seasonic PSU... instead, I just wired it directly to the AC inlet. Heatshrinked all connections for safety, and then used electrical tape for another layer of protection

About the PSU, i try to understand what you did. About the wiring with the socket.
But my question is, isnt it just so simple that you remove/desolder the white from original Apple PSU socket, put the "new PC PSU" into the Apple psu case, without the PC-psu socket, and solder the white socket onto those 2-3 spots ?

If possible, show more pictures of the inside of the PSU and what you did on it to make it work.

Also, follow-up question. Did you do something with the PSU-fan plate? I see you have all the PSU-wires perfectly fit, whilst i has 4 holes from the old Apple-PSU, and theres no way in hell that i can fit a PC-PSU cord through those holes