MacPro Mod -No Tray, No Cutting, All PCI solutions for I/O

Discussion in 'Mac Pro Mods' started by powerpcg5, Mar 4, 2012.

  1. badix08

    badix08

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    Nov 2, 2016 at 10:21 PM #31
    badix08

    badix08

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    Hi powerpcg5,
    Realy nice job :thumbup::thumbup: , so i wondering where do you get the sata backplane ? is it a home made ?
    Thank you for response.
     
  2. badix08

    badix08

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    Nov 10, 2016 at 7:14 PM #32
    badix08

    badix08

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    o_O Nothing ?
     
  3. powerpcg5

    powerpcg5

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    Dec 23, 2016 at 4:48 AM #33
    powerpcg5

    powerpcg5

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    Just want to share some photos.

    I re-used the original power button on the G5 case as the power button/sleep/restart button for my Hackintosh.

    [​IMG]

    The (2) blue wires you see going on the 8-pin headers are the PWR (+) and (-) wires that go to your motherboard.

    So!... using the original PowerMac button:
    Quick-press -- turns Hackintosh on (if computer was off)
    Press for (1) second -- turns Hackintosh to sleep (if computer is already on)
    Quick-press -- wakes up Hackintosh from sleep (if computer is asleep)
    Press for (4) seconds -- displays OSX dialogue box for Restart/Sleep/Cancel/Shut-Down

    I figured out the wiring for the White LED on the power switch, but sadly it's not accessible from the 8-pin header. One can solder a wire though going from the switch to a spare header terminal, and wire that to the motherboard for Power-On indicator or Hard drive activity.

    I think what I'll do is just mount some LEDs on a little PCB board, and mount it behind the front panel and use those for Power ON, and Hard Drive activity. Since the G5 case front panel is somewhat see-through, the LED light's glow will still be visible, without the LED protruding through the front panel.

    And a photo of my power supply mod (with covers removed)

    [​IMG]

    In front of the PSU is a Noctua fan, blowing air out to the rear.

    I transferred the guts of a normal PC PSU to the frame of the MacPro PSU case.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. powerpcg5

    powerpcg5

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    Dec 23, 2016 at 12:04 PM #34
    powerpcg5

    powerpcg5

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    Here's the label for the MacPro case front USB and power switch headers. The +5V is required for the USB port to work, assuming also you connected the USB data cable. (Only the top USB port works though, so I think I may have a mistake in my data cable for the 2nd port...)
    [​IMG]
     
  5. powerpcg5

    powerpcg5

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    Dec 23, 2016 at 12:45 PM #35
    powerpcg5

    powerpcg5

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    Using an Arctic Freezer i11 to cool a 4790K (4.4Ghz)
    Added a Noctua front fan to the MacPro case, which dropped idle temperature by 2 degrees.

    20C idle... not bad for a $25 cpu cooler!
    Running Geekbench4, the temps briefly kissed 49C.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. powerpcg5

    powerpcg5

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    Dec 26, 2016 at 2:01 PM #36
    powerpcg5

    powerpcg5

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    Drilled a hole on the plastic front fan holder... and mounted a Panel-Mount bezel LED... Now I have an HDD activity light. Thanks to the perforated front panel, you can still see the glow of the lamp.

    [​IMG]
     
    DifferentComputers likes this.
  7. nadirian

    nadirian

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    Aug 11, 2017 at 7:53 PM #37
    nadirian

    nadirian

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    Hello!

    Can you show how you fastened your mobo?
     
  8. powerpcg5

    powerpcg5

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    Aug 11, 2017 at 8:41 PM #38
    powerpcg5

    powerpcg5

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    Screwed standoffs to an old motherboard, lay it down on chassis, mark where the standoffs landed, and use JB-Weld to glue the standoffs to case (with mobo still attached), and placed weights on top of mobo until JB weld is cured. Unscrew old motherboard.
     
  9. nadirian

    nadirian

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    Aug 13, 2017 at 6:44 PM #39
    nadirian

    nadirian

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    Awesome, thanks!
     
  10. nadirian

    nadirian

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    Aug 14, 2017 at 6:14 PM #40
    nadirian

    nadirian

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    About the PSU, i try to understand what you did. About the wiring with the socket.
    But my question is, isnt it just so simple that you remove/desolder the white from original Apple PSU socket, put the "new PC PSU" into the Apple psu case, without the PC-psu socket, and solder the white socket onto those 2-3 spots ?

    If possible, show more pictures of the inside of the PSU and what you did on it to make it work.

    Also, follow-up question. Did you do something with the PSU-fan plate? I see you have all the PSU-wires perfectly fit, whilst i has 4 holes from the old Apple-PSU, and theres no way in hell that i can fit a PC-PSU cord through those holes :D
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2017

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