- May 12, 2020
- I like to hack old tech, which often means removing the motherboard
- mostly Apple computers
- the latest and greatest
- Mobile Phone
This is great work, and I'd be interested in knowing if your board design has been tested. But there's one moment that gives me pause: the LCD pinout you attached looks nothing like the actual pinout from my 20" G5 iSight LCD (A1145). May I ask what the source of this pinout schematic is? I've had difficulty finding a datasheet for theSorry, i did a mistake in my first try, so DON`T use it . Pin 26 is VCC 3v3 @ isight 17" and 12V @ imac 20" so it is not EDID-CLK, EDID-CLK is pin 24 !! You can damage the EEPROM of the Display.
The other thing you have to do is, you have to unsolder the VCC and GND Wires, which come from the LCD and solder them to extra wires to connect them to you supply. So this circuit is not "plug and play" without soldering
I did another version without the mistake and plug and play, but have not posted it here because i thought there is no interest.
Edit , here the new version i made:
( i will order this time the board myself, from china, so wait till i have it, i will test my board and post the result here )
Now you see the difference.
You connect de HDMI cable, the LCD cable and max tree wires from your supply.
If you use a isight 17" (like A1144) you have to put 3.3V on VCC_EDID and V_LCD and GND in the middle. If you use 20" (like A1076) you need 12 V on V_LCD and 5V on VCC_EDID and GND in the middle. Thats all.
R1 is the 1k Hotplug Detect Resistor. You can use a SMD 1206 resistor with 1k value or you can use a THT one, using the first and second hole (from the 4 holes on the top edge)
The modifications from this forum always power the EEPROM / EDID from its own supply so thats why R2 is 0 Ohm and R3 is open, so you can choose what voltage you put on VEDID.
Normaly the EEPROM (were the EDID is) of the display is supplied from the device ( PC or XBOX etc.. ), if you want that you have to swap R2 to R3; -> R3 = 0 Ohm = Bridge and R2 is open