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How to build your own iMac Pro [Successful Build/Extended Guide]

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1.) SSDT-SLEEP.aml is just for debugging.

2.) Remove FakeCPUID from config.plist.

3.) Please provide "PCI" screenshot of Apple's system report and IROEG-save.

Hey @kgp,

Well, i've tried to remove the SSDT-SLEEP.aml and removed FakeCPUID from config.plist but still have the issue.
There is the missing infos you've asked for.

Thank you in advance.
 

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Hey @kgp,

Well, i've tried to remove the SSDT-SLEEP.aml and removed FakeCPUID from config.plist but still have the issue.
There is the missing infos you've asked for.

Thank you in advance.

Looking to your PCI screenshot, you are missing the GC-Titan Ridge USB-C PCI driver.

Concerning your black screen issue. How mani monitors do you have connected? Same issue when using only one Nvidia GPU?
 
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Further note, that for all Skylake-X processors, a sophisticated liquid cooling system is absolutely mandatory! For stock speeds something like the Corsair H115i might by sufficient.

Rubbish.
My i7-7800X takes on enormous FreeBSD build-service loads, and when not doing heavy operating system source compilation builds it also serves to do a lil' bit of RC5 cryptographic key searches. This machine sees continuous total capacity loads about 85-90% of the day 24/7/365. It is totally air-cooled, the only fan(s) are those of the CPU cooler itself, and they are literally silent at all times. No case fans at all. The PSU is a 500w fanless unit. Granted the CPU cooler is a CoolerMaster MasterAir Maker 8, and very large. However, if you play your cards right and use an x299 mATX motherboard with this CPU and cooler combo, you can build yourself a pretty neat looking custom square-cube computer case; 11x11x11-inch cube which is exactly what I've done. The top of the cube serves as the "exhaust" for the entire case, and the CPU cooler airflow is vertical from bottom to top. The bottom "intake" of the case is protected with a ~4mm hex thin stainless steel mesh, the top "exhaust" is protected by a 27cm x 27cm section of 10mm height titanium honeycomb (of the 10mm hex variety) scrap I had lying around...don't ask me why I'd have that sort of stuff lying around.
In any event, I routinely catch this thing sitting at ~19 to 22 degrees Celsius when idle at room temperature. It dipped below 15C recently at the first signs of winter weather. Scanning through the coretemp logs revealed that it has so far never been above 50C. This particular CPU is a binned unit, de-lidded + liquid metal thermal "paste" under the IHS and always runs overclocked. I can not confirm how much lower the temperatures are compared to a totally untouched i7-7800X because I never even bothered to install the CPU until after I modified it...but probably a 10 to 12 degrees Fahrenheit difference as this is the most common figure. My custom case has pretty great airflow, simply because there's not much physical impediments on account of the big "holes" at the top and bottom. Even so I suspect the temperatures wouldn't be much higher if it sat in a more conventional computer case.

Bonus note: if you have a motherboard with (macOS incompatible) onboard WiFi, you can under most circumstances swap out the WiFi card yourself and replace it with a macOS compatible card. It commonly involves 2 or 3 screws and a lot of patience to re-attach those tiny fiddly little bastard WiFi antenna connectors. Simply look for either a suitable mPCI-E or M.2 Broadcom WiFi card on eBay for the price of peanuts, part number(s): BCM94360CD or BCM94352Z, verify the correct interface first...obviously. Done this 7 times now, zero issues.
 
Rubbish.
My i7-7800X takes on enormous FreeBSD build-service loads, and when not doing heavy operating system source compilation builds it also serves to do a lil' bit of RC5 cryptographic key searches. This machine sees continuous total capacity loads about 85-90% of the day 24/7/365. It is totally air-cooled, the only fan(s) are those of the CPU cooler itself, and they are literally silent at all times. No case fans at all. The PSU is a 500w fanless unit. Granted the CPU cooler is a CoolerMaster MasterAir Maker 8, and very large. However, if you play your cards right and use an x299 mATX motherboard with this CPU and cooler combo, you can build yourself a pretty neat looking custom square-cube computer case; 11x11x11-inch cube which is exactly what I've done. The top of the cube serves as the "exhaust" for the entire case, and the CPU cooler airflow is vertical from bottom to top. The bottom "intake" of the case is protected with a ~4mm hex thin stainless steel mesh, the top "exhaust" is protected by a 27cm x 27cm section of 10mm height titanium honeycomb (of the 10mm hex variety) scrap I had lying around...don't ask me why I'd have that sort of stuff lying around.
In any event, I routinely catch this thing sitting at ~19 to 22 degrees Celsius when idle at room temperature. It dipped below 15C recently at the first signs of winter weather. Scanning through the coretemp logs revealed that it has so far never been above 50C. This particular CPU is a binned unit, de-lidded + liquid metal thermal "paste" under the IHS and always runs overclocked. I can not confirm how much lower the temperatures are compared to a totally untouched i7-7800X because I never even bothered to install the CPU until after I modified it...but probably a 10 to 12 degrees Fahrenheit difference as this is the most common figure. My custom case has pretty great airflow, simply because there's not much physical impediments on account of the big "holes" at the top and bottom. Even so I suspect the temperatures wouldn't be much higher if it sat in a more conventional computer case.

Bonus note: if you have a motherboard with (macOS incompatible) onboard WiFi, you can under most circumstances swap out the WiFi card yourself and replace it with a macOS compatible card. It commonly involves 2 or 3 screws and a lot of patience to re-attach those tiny fiddly little bastard WiFi antenna connectors. Simply look for either a suitable mPCI-E or M.2 Broadcom WiFi card on eBay for the price of peanuts, part number(s): BCM94360CD or BCM94352Z, verify the correct interface first...obviously. Done this 7 times now, zero issues.

1.) Just try to OC your gorgeous air-flow i7-7800X or try to run a i9-7980XE at 4.7GHz with sync all cores and an air-flow cooler and then let's discuss about what you kindly term "rubbish". However, I guess all you state above is not even worth a discussion.

2.) Please provide your system specs (mobo, CPU, GPU) in either your profile or signature in concordance with the board rules.
 
1.) Just try to OC your gorgeous air-flow i7-7800X or try to run a i9-7980XE at 4.7GHz with sync all cores and an air-flow cooler and then let's discuss about what you kindly term "rubbish". However, I guess all you state above is not even worth a discussion.

You don't need to go that far, my i9-7900X wouldn't be anywhere near the 4.5 GHz (sync all cores) I'm running it at with an air cooler. I'm with you, I wouldn't recommend running this CPUs on air cooling.
 
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I mean if the LG 5K2K would allow display support via USB-C, there should be an USB-C input option apart from HDMI1, HDMI2, DP and TB, isn't it? But there isn't such input option in the LG 5K2K on-screen menu.
The manual seems to make a distinction between USB-C mode and Thunderbolt mode in three different places. The display doesn't provide a separate option because they both use the same port. There is one line that specifically mentions using a USB-C cable instead of a Thunderbolt cable: "Use the USB-C Cable (sold separately) for the PC that only supports the USB-C output."

Disconnecting and reconnecting the power cable of the LG 5k2k does not help at all with any supposed DP1.4 -> USB-C cable signal. Obviously none of the LG 5K2K USB2.0 or USB3.0 controllers are implemented in IOREG when connecting the DP1.4 port of the Vega or the GC-Titan Ridge with the USB-C port of the LG 5K2K with the DP1.4 to USB-C cable.
The USB controllers should appear in IOREG when connecting the DP1.4 of the Vega when one of the following is true:
1) USB Upstream is set to USB-B and you have the USB-A to USB-B cable connected.
2) USB Upstream is set to USB-C and you have the USB-A to USB-C cable connected.

My speculation is that the display won't accept DisplayPort input from USB-C unless there was a USB connection also, like with the LG UltraFine 4K. But the LG 5K2K has the extra option of choosing the USB Upstream, so I thought that using USB-B might make DisplayPort from USB-C work.
 
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The manual seems to make a distinction between USB-C mode and Thunderbolt mode in three different places. The display doesn't provide a separate option because they both use the same port. There is one line that specifically mentions using a USB-C cable instead of a Thunderbolt cable: "Use the USB-C Cable (sold separately) for the PC that only supports the USB-C output."


The USB controllers should appear in IOREG when connecting the DP1.4 of the Vega when one of the following is true:
1) USB Upstream is set to USB-B and you have the USB-A to USB-B cable connected.
2) USB Upstream is set to USB-C and you have the USB-A to USB-C cable connected.

My speculation is that the display won't accept DisplayPort input from USB-C unless there was a USB connection also, like with the LG UltraFine 4K. But the LG 5K2K has the extra option of choosing the USB Upstream, so I thought that using USB-B might make DisplayPort from USB-C work.

Apparently it doesn’t
 
please help me after install high sierra
the first boot, freeze up

specs

gigabyte gaming 9
i9-7980xe
64gb ddr
samsung 970 evo
2x sli gtx 1080 ti

thanks
 
please help me after install high sierra
the first boot, freeze up

specs

gigabyte gaming 9
i9-7980xe
64gb ddr
samsung 970 evo
2x sli gtx 1080 ti

thanks

TSCAdjustReset in EFI-Folder?

Else read section C.) what to provide for receiving help and support!

Also provide system specs (mobo, cpu, gpu) in either your profile or signature in concordance with the board rules.

Good luck
 
yes i have TSCAdjustReset in EFI
 
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