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Guide: Multibooting UEFI on Separate Drives

Check the NVMe drive for Win10 WinRe Tools and EFI partitions.

Not a bad call - I honestly hadn't thought of that. Alas:

DU shows one partition
Screenshot 2020-04-03 at 17.33.22.png


Commandline diskutil shows two partitions (disk0)
1585929043528.png


So, only the expected partitions and no WinRe tools partition :(

Would have been nice though, if the answer was to remove the NVMe during Win10 install and then put it back in afterwards.
 
To everyone who have been following and responding to my troubles regarding getting Windows 10 to work, booting from UEFI on my Dell Optiplex 9020 MT - thank you for your input, suggestions and interest along the way.

I can finally say that I have managed to get it working. I will describe in detail what was tried during the process and how I finally managed to get it working.

Hopefully no one else has to go through this, but if they do, perhaps they can be saved some frustration and follow what I did.

The full write-up is in the Dell Optimac 9020 thread as I believe the issue might be tied to this specific computer type.

Here: https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/...-570-lg-4k-27-ips-monitor.277811/post-2098140
 
The full write-up is in the Dell Optimac 9020 thread as I believe the issue might be tied to this specific computer type.
Thanks for posting the results of this. Strange that it's so much more difficult to install Windows 10 on a Dell Optiplex than it is to install macOS Catalina on one.
 
Hey,

Sorry for my dumb question. I have installed Mac Os Catalina 10.15.4 on a SSD and I have 3 more HDD for data.
Now I want to install Windows 10 on one of these HDD and be able to boot on windows / mac when I want.
I have to do something special to make it work? or just follow the guide on thread #1?

I have important files on the SSD running Mac Os so I'm afraid of losing them.

Thanks in advance.
 
I have important files on the SSD running Mac Os so I'm afraid of losing them.
Most important thing: Disconnect your SSD with macOS on it before installing Windows. Some people even go as far as never having it connected when booting Windows on their hackintosh.
 
Most important thing: Disconnect your SSD with macOS on it before installing Windows. Some people even go as far as never having it connected when booting Windows on their hackintosh.
So, do you think that if I disconnect all the hard disks running Catalina when I want to use Windows there will be no problems? Same bios config and everything fine? And the same for when I want to use Mac Os, disconnect the Windows drive?
 
So, do you think that if I disconnect all the hard disks running Catalina when I want to use Windows there will be no problems? Same bios config and everything fine? And the same for when I want to use Mac Os, disconnect the Windows drive?

I think the main thing is - as @trs96 says - disconnect MacOS drive when installing Windows.

Apart from that, I consider it sound advice to not leave the MacOS related disks on when running Windows, and vice versa. Main thing you want to avoid is to write to, or select, the wrong disk when doing something irreversible - like a format. If the disks at peril are not powered on, you're safe.

I opted to solve this predicament using one of these:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07MXBKGW4/?tag=tonymacx8603-21

That way, I can actively control power on/off of individual disks without opening up the PC. Worth it? Depends on how many times you need to boot in either OS, and how much free time you have to fix any cock-ups if you make a mistake :) For me, it's worth every penny as I want to use my computer time on accomplishing things with it, not recovering it because I screwed it up ;-)
 
I think the main thing is - as @trs96 says - disconnect MacOS drive when installing Windows.

Apart from that, I consider it sound advice to not leave the MacOS related disks on when running Windows, and vice versa. Main thing you want to avoid is to write to, or select, the wrong disk when doing something irreversible - like a format. If the disks at peril are not powered on, you're safe.

I opted to solve this predicament using one of these:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07MXBKGW4/?tag=tonymacx8603-21

That way, I can actively control power on/off of individual disks without opening up the PC. Worth it? Depends on how many times you need to boot in either OS, and how much free time you have to fix any cock-ups if you make a mistake :) For me, it's worth every penny as I want to use my computer time on accomplishing things with it, not recovering it because I screwed it up ;-)
I prefer something like this:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B074VJYDT4/?tag=tonymacx8603-21
or this:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00GDG76ES/?tag=tonymacx8603-21

If the drive is not in the tray it is not connected to the computer at all and cannot be touched by another OS.
 
Recently installed Win 10 onto a separate SSD and have been dual booting for last couple weeks w/o issues. Yesterday I think I may have messed up something in my config.plist as I was checking some settings in Clover Config.

Now only the Win boot options show in Clover. I've found posts online about adding HFSplus.efi but not clear how to do that from Win side. I can see the Mac drive in the BIOS settings and on the Windows side.

Is my only option to boot from a Mac USB to add or repair the system? Other options?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Recently installed Win 10 onto a separate SSD and have been dual booting for last couple weeks w/o issues. Yesterday I think I may have messed up something in my config.plist as I was checking some settings in Clover Config.

Now only the Win boot options show in Clover. I've found posts online about adding HFSplus.efi but not clear how to do that from Win side. I can see the Mac drive in the BIOS settings and on the Windows side.

Is my only option to boot from a Mac USB to add or repair the system? Other options?

Thanks in advance for any help.
No, you can mount the EFI partition of the Mac drive, open the Clover config.plist with any plist editor that will run in Windows, edit the plist to fix it, save, reboot and try to boot Mac OS. plist Editor Pro works OK and there is a free trial period.
 
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