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[GUIDE] Jerivalu’s Build: Fresh 10.11.5, Z170X-UD5 TH, 6700k, Intel HD 530, Thunderbolt, Dual Boot

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Thanks for helping me clear this up and hooking me up with all of this other information. I'm probably going to go for the UD5 at this point because I don't really see myself using thunderbolt any time soon, and I want the extra M.2 slot.

I'm honestly not too worried about this, I'm just trying to build something that can power a 4k display, dual boot, run games with good fps and decent graphics, and do some programming / photo editing on. It also seems pretty likely that they are pretty similar boards.

I was also wondering, you mentioned NVMe, do you think I would see a noticeable performance increase with that? They cost about 90% more than the SATA III ones I'm looking at for the same space:

SAMSUNG 850 EVO M.2 250GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal SSD Single Unit Version MZ-N5E250BW, one for windows and one for osx.

I was also going to get this graphics card, based on some speculation that they go well with this motherboard in terms of compatibility, and that its on sale:

EVGA GeForce GTX 960 02G-P4-2966-KR 2GB SSC GAMING w/ACX 2.0+, Whisper Silent Cooling Graphics Card

And one of these processors: Intel Core i5-6500 (no overclocking saves about 50 bucks, or 1/5th the cost of the i5-6500k).

So would you think NVMe would be a reasonable upgrade with that setup?
I think if you're buying based on budget, then you don't need NVMe. You'll be happy with the 850 SATA III's. But if you're going for SATA III, then why not get the 2.5" drives and save the M.2 slots for future upgrades? The 2.5" drives could then be transferred to other computers later.

Any of the GTX 900 series cards (including Titan X) will work well. They're the best you can get until Nvidia updates the Mac drivers for the 1000 series cards. With a graphics card, you can ignore the internal graphics features of the motherboard (and their problems).
 
So the 2.5" will run at the same speed as the M.2?

I'm not really buying based on any budget, just don't want to spend money on something if I'll barely notice a difference / not notice any difference at all.

*edit: looks like Ill be getting 2.5" for now, thanks again for the advice
 
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So the 2.5" will run at the same speed as the M.2?
That seems to be the case. The same chipset handles the SATA for both the SATA ports and the M.2 ports so electrically there isn't much of a difference. SSDs are limited by the SATA speed, so they should all top out around the same performance level for sequential reads/writes. All the 850 EVO form factors use the same controller (except the 1 TB drive) so they all have about the same random read/write performance.

Compare (note that the test systems are different):
http://www.anandtech.com/show/9023/the-samsung-ssd-850-evo-msata-m2-review
http://www.anandtech.com/show/8747/samsung-ssd-850-evo-review
 
Personally, I wouldn't trust any TLC SSD too much, especially from Samsung. I own two MLC ones, that I bought around 2013, and the Sandisk Ultra Plus I abused for a while, downloading a lot of stuff, barely passes the SMART test.
Once a cell is dead, it becomes "read only", you shouldn't lose data, but Samsung is also well known for using cheap capacitors. You may start to worry, as soon as the warranty's over. In my building, I've seen quite a few neighbors throwing away their Samsung plasma TV, dead after 2 1/2 years.
 
Installing Windows 10
  1. After installing, when in windows, make sure to NOT install the Realtek audio drivers for the motherboard! This will make it so your rear audio port will not output sound in OSX! (DON'T WORRY: sound will still work 100% as intended through the preinstalled windows drivers (front, rear, etc), just don't install the realtek drivers from gigabyte)
Hello !

Same MoBo here. I did the installation myself following a ****** post ([Success] [Skylake] 100% working Z170X system : hackintosh) and did a mistake: I installed the Realtek audio drivers for the motherboard in windows and now i'm only able to get sound through HDMI (EVGA Nvidia GTX 980). Sound control is not working and the audio out (front, rear) are also not working and i can't get a working solution.

what i did: Realtek 1150 and Optional HD 4600 HDMI Audio activation with Multibeast + the audio_cloverALC-110.command

what i get:

Code:
File: audio_cloverALC-110.command_v1.0r10
Release Mode
Password:
EFI partition is mounted
System Integrity Protection status: enabled (Custom Configuration).

Configuration:
    Apple Internal: disabled
    Kext Signing: disabled
    Filesystem Protections: disabled
    Debugging Restrictions: enabled
    DTrace Restrictions: enabled
    NVRAM Protections: enabled

This is an unsupported configuration, likely to break in the future and leave your machine in an unknown state.

OK to patch
Error: no IOReg/HDEF; BIOS/audio/disabled or ACPI problem
No system files were changed
To save a Copy of this Terminal session: Terminal/Shell/Export Text As ...
logout
Saving session...
...copying shared history...
...saving history...truncating history files...
...completed.

what could I do to solve this?
thank you
 
Hello !

Same MoBo here. I did the installation myself following a ****** post ([Success] [Skylake] 100% working Z170X system : hackintosh) and did a mistake: I installed the Realtek audio drivers for the motherboard in windows and now i'm only able to get sound through HDMI (EVGA Nvidia GTX 980). Sound control is not working and the audio out (front, rear) are also not working and i can't get a working solution.

what i did: Realtek 1150 and Optional HD 4600 HDMI Audio activation with Multibeast + the audio_cloverALC-110.command

what i get:

Code:
File: audio_cloverALC-110.command_v1.0r10
Release Mode
Password:
EFI partition is mounted
System Integrity Protection status: enabled (Custom Configuration).

Configuration:
    Apple Internal: disabled
    Kext Signing: disabled
    Filesystem Protections: disabled
    Debugging Restrictions: enabled
    DTrace Restrictions: enabled
    NVRAM Protections: enabled

This is an unsupported configuration, likely to break in the future and leave your machine in an unknown state.

OK to patch
Error: no IOReg/HDEF; BIOS/audio/disabled or ACPI problem
No system files were changed
To save a Copy of this Terminal session: Terminal/Shell/Export Text As ...
logout
Saving session...
...copying shared history...
...saving history...truncating history files...
...completed.

what could I do to solve this?
thank you

All you have to do is uninstall the windows realtek drivers and you are fine
 
Hi Guys!
Is there anyone who have this build in G5 case with BlackCH Mods cable? Audio jack in front panel doesn't work in my build (also with audio sense jumper).
And one more thing, my hac shut down properly with Corsair H100i v2 (usb disconnected) but after sleep monitor can't wake up.
Any ideas?
Thx
 
It's not really that crazy/hard, it just takes a little time. Using the prebuilt motherboard settings your chip is most likely running hotter and higher voltage than necessary.
Here is a very basic idea of my process.
  • I do my overclocking stability test in windows using the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility.
  • Basically I load up the multiplier I want in the BIOS (eg 45x for 4.5ghz), and I started with a Vcore of stock (1.30 on the 6700k) and make sure to put your CPU Vcore Loadline Calibration setting to “High”.
  • If you are undervolted too far for the overclock, your computer wont even boot to windows so you know you'll have to raise the vcore 0.01 at a time. (For this chip, be weary of going over 1.4v- and you would only need to go that high if you are doing a pretty big overclock. It's always better to undervolt when testing than overvolt and fry your chip)
  • Basically once you get into windows you stress test the computer with the utility and see if it crashes or not. If it crashes then you know you need more vcore. Again every chip is different so you'll have to test out what works for yours.
  • In my case with my chip I could boot into windows with 1.30 but when it came to the stress test the computer would crash so I put it up to 1.31 and it was stable again with a max load temp of ~50C. I did put the OC to 4.6ghz but it required me to up my vcore to 1.36 and my temps were up to ~70C (wasn't worth it imo).


sorry probably a stupid question, I have a GA-Z170X-UD5 which is pretty much the same as this mobo. I'm trying to overclock but the items that I need to change (like the multiplier) are all set to AUTO and I can't change them? Is there a setting somewhere I need to flip so I can manually put in the OC values?
 
sorry probably a stupid question, I have a GA-Z170X-UD5 which is pretty much the same as this mobo. I'm trying to overclock but the items that I need to change (like the multiplier) are all set to AUTO and I can't change them? Is there a setting somewhere I need to flip so I can manually put in the OC values?
Try the -/+ keys ... I think that is what does it on UD5 TH?
 
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