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[Guide] Intel NUC7/NUC8 using Clover UEFI (NUC7i7Bxx,NUC8i7Bxx,etc)

It might have been unclear in my post but there is a cheap option I think would work. When your Broadcom BT/Wifi chipset M.2. arrives buy a USB 3.0 to M.2 NVMe adapter. That way your wifi bluetooth will work and USB 3.0 speed is fine for that.

The you have your INTERNAL M.2. free for either Windows 10 or your MAC OS whatever you use the most hard drive intensive software on ie video editing etc.

There are links on that working. USB 3.0 is overkill speed wise for WiFi and Bluetooth. Let us know how it goes.

Just make sure that you choose the RIGHT M.2 interface in your adapter there are a few but all options are catered for on ebay and cheap.
So actually today I received the broadcom wifi/bt chip (I already received the adapter). I did not had the the right cable to connect the chip to the usb internal header (but I knew that) so I'm still using the 10$ BT4.0 dongle (which seem to work).

What I have tested from https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT204681:

Works:
- Continuity Camera
- Continuity Markup and Sketch
- Handoff
- Universal Clipboard
- Airdrop
- Instant Hotspot

More testing needed:
- imessage (I could imessage with my brother on my hackintosh - but I don't see my cloud messages yet)

Still to test:
- Sidecar (ipad battery depleted :))
- Apple Pay

Doesn't work yet (properly):
- iPhone Cellular calls (I always get an error that my iPhone is not setup properly..)
Update: 25/10: [FIXED]

Cannot test:
- Auto Unlock (don't have a apple watch)

I need to check out those adapters though..
 
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I got rid of FakePCIID.kext and FakePCIID_Intel_HDMI_Audio.kext (fix loss HDMI audio after reboot). I modified AppleALC.kext for device-id 719d0000 (100 Series PCH HD Audio) Who has nuc7 (nuc8?) Check if it works on your configuration
No one answered.
The fact is that FakePCIID_Intel_HDMI_Audio.kext replaces the device-id for AppleHDAController with a supported one.
AppleALC has binary patches for the AppleHDAController, which basically do the same thing.
You need to look at device-id in IOService:/AppleACPIPlatformExpert/PCI0@0/AppleACPIPCI/HDEF@...
And based on this add your patch to AppleALC in Controllers.plist
0x9d74(device-id = 749D00), 0x9d71, 0x9d70, 0xa171, 0xa2f0, 0xa348, 0x9dc8 to 70A10000
0xa170 to 709D0000
 
So actually today I received the broadcom wifi/bt chip (I already received the adapter). I did not had the the right cable to connect the chip to the usb internal header (but I knew that) so I'm still using the 10$ BT4.0 dongle (which seem to work).

What I have tested from https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT204681:

Works:
- Continuity Camera
- Continuity Markup and Sketch
- Handoff
- Universal Clipboard
- Airdrop
- Instant Hotspot

More testing needed:
- imessage (I could imessage with my brother on my hackintosh - but I don't see my cloud messages yet)

Still to test:
- Sidecar (ipad battery depleted :))
- Apple Pay

Doesn't work yet (properly):
- iPhone Cellular calls (I always get an error that my iPhone is not setup properly..)

Cannot test:
- Auto Unlock (don't have a apple watch)

I need to check out those adapters though..
Good to hear HedgeHog2k keep us in touch when you get the internal cable. You will need to do the mod for the antennas too yeah?
 
DUAL BOOTING WINDOWS 10 1903 (Latest build) and CATALINA WOES

Does anyone dual boot Windows 10 and Catalina. When I do that and use the Clover 5070 as I uses Leesureone's EFI folder I get a driver won't load problem breaking audio. I'm guessing it is due to HDCP or something but the fact is Audio doesn't' work without the driver loading.

Now I have Windows and Mac OS on separate drives. I'm in contact with Intel support but so far they have not been helpful.

Also if I changed the BOOT PRIORITY from Windows first to Catalina being first to boot the Windows 10 bootloader would corrupt and be unbootable normally and would need to boot Clover into windows to recover the EFI partition. I did a before and after comparison of every file in the windows EFI partition and found the BCD file was larger and corrupted. When you press F10 there was NO bootloader to boot.

FOUND THE ANSWER ON MICROSOFT FORUMS: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...a/db6c21ff-4945-47a2-8e16-cb617591cb33?auth=1

Quote MS answer: "The modern UEFI firmware replacing the BIOS doesn't use Active flags and requires Windows Boot Manager to be set first at all times in Boot Priority Order, UEFI enabled "

SOLUTION FOR NOW: This won't corrupt the windows 10 bootloader. I make sure the windows 10 bootloader is ALWAYS FIRST. I have to press F10 each time I want to load MAC OS Catalina which is ok I guess.

QUESTION: Those of you that dual boot windows 10 using Clover Boot Menu, can you look in Device Manager under "System Devices" and see if your "Intel Smart Sound Technology (Intel(R) SST) OED, Driver has loaded ok. If it doesn't load like mine it will have a yellow ! mark next to it and the tree will be opened already as in my ATTACHED PICTURE. The error is error 10 meaning the driver cannot load.

I think it might be a clover version issue I am using 5070. Would appreciate any others who have dual booting working and Intel HDMI audio.
 

Attachments

  • Intel Driver breaks when booting from clover bootloader.png
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  • 2. Boot Priority Windows has to be TOP.JPG
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  • 3. Working F10 two Bootable UEFI Bootloaders.JPG
    3. Working F10 two Bootable UEFI Bootloaders.JPG
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Hello,
I've update from Mojave to Catalina my Nuc8i5BEH using the new EFI folder from page 91, everything works smoothly but the sleep. When I put it in sleep, it sleeps, then wakes up and after about 15-20 seconds it reboots :(
Any idea how to fix it?

edit:
I'm using usb-c to DisplayPort cable for my monitor and a usb3 kvm for mouse & keyboard.

Thank you all!

Hi Dan111,

Try and put your computer to sleep. Make sure to NOT touch mouse etc at all and wait a good 30 seconds. For some reason it can take a while to go to sleep on hackintosh's not like my real Macbook Air.

When it fails open terminal using spotlight search. PASTE THE BELOW COMMAND into Terminal and scroll down the text to the bottom to find what woke your Mac.

log show --style syslog | fgrep "Wake reason"

I had a piece of software I had installed keeping my mac from sleep when I did this. Best of luck.

Also unplug all usb stuff except the essentials.

I use a usb C display mate to HDMI and it sleeps fine. Also try a different keyboard and mouse. Elimination testing.

I timed how long it takes for my computer to sleep 26 seconds so wait before touching anything. Also don't turn off your TV monitor etc until sleep happens. If I turn off my tv with remote while it is sleeping it stays awake. Normal monitor should not matter.
 
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So actually today I received the broadcom wifi/bt chip (I already received the adapter). I did not had the the right cable to connect the chip to the usb internal header (but I knew that) so I'm still using the 10$ BT4.0 dongle (which seem to work).

What I have tested from https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT204681:

Works:
- Continuity Camera
- Continuity Markup and Sketch
- Handoff
- Universal Clipboard
- Airdrop
- Instant Hotspot

More testing needed:
- imessage (I could imessage with my brother on my hackintosh - but I don't see my cloud messages yet)

Still to test:
- Sidecar (ipad battery depleted :))
- Apple Pay

Doesn't work yet (properly):
- iPhone Cellular calls (I always get an error that my iPhone is not setup properly..)

Cannot test:
- Auto Unlock (don't have a apple watch)

I need to check out those adapters though..
Hi Dan111,

Try and put your computer to sleep. Make sure to NOT touch mouse etc at all and wait a good 30 seconds. For some reason it can take a while to go to sleep on hackintosh's not like my real Macbook Air.

When it fails open terminal using spotlight search. PASTE THE BELOW COMMAND into Terminal and scroll down the text to the bottom to find what woke your Mac.

log show --style syslog | fgrep "Wake reason"

I had a piece of software I had installed keeping my mac from sleep when I did this. Best of luck.

Also unplug all usb stuff except the essentials.

I use a usb C display mate to HDMI and it sleeps fine. Also try a different keyboard and mouse. Elimination testing.

I timed how long it takes for my computer to sleep 26 seconds so wait before touching anything. Also don't turn off your TV monitor etc until sleep happens. If I turn off my tv with remote while it is sleeping it stays awake. Normal monitor should not matter.

It could very well be his KVM switch that’s hijacking sleep so suggesting he change keyboard and mouse was a good idea.
 
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FakeSMC_ACPISensors.kext
FakeSMC_CPUSensors.kext
FakeSMC_GPUSensors.kext
FakeSMC_LPCSensors.kext
FakeSMC_SMMSensors.kext
FakeSMC.kext

Is what I have. But besides some cpu temp/frequencies/voltages I don't see anything in hwmonitor.

Where do I get these already built, etc - straight download of each .kext?
 

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