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[Guide] HP 6300 Pro / HP 8300 Elite - A 100 percent Working and Easily Affordable CustoMac

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That's good to hear. I had read in Florian's graphics thread that DP is preferable to use with 4K monitors as the support in macOS is better for that than for HDMI 2.0. So this would mean that those with the MSI 1030 could use dual 4K monitors and get a 60Hz refresh rate from both. Pretty good for a $70 dollar graphics card. My transition to 4K is still a ways off but I'll get there eventually. For most of what I do works fine with 1080p so I have no good reason to upgrade right now.

If/when you do take the leap to a 4K display, take care to consider Pixels Per Inch...

Examples:
2880x1800 @ 15.4" = 220.53PPI (current 15" MacBook Pro native resolution)
1440x900 @ 15.4" = 110.27PPI (current 15" MacBook Pro default working resolution)
3840x2160 @ 27" = 163.18PPI (27" 4K display native resolution)
1920x1080 @ 27" = 81.59PPI (27" 4K display scaled to 1080p)
3840x2160 @ 32" = 137.68PPI (32" 4K display native resolution)
3840x2160 @ 40" = 110.15PPI (40" 4K display native resolution)

My first 4K monitor was a Dell 27". I was able to see everything at it's native resolution, but it was a bit of a struggle and I ended up scaling to 3200x1200 which resulted in 126.58PPI. I later upgraded to a 32" 4K monitor because I wanted to use native resolution for the extra desktop real estate and I'm at 137.68PPI now.

I have fairly good, albeit aging, eyesight and have never worn glasses. Personally, I consider 32" (137.68PPI) to be the absolute minimum if you want to use 4K at native resolution with any modicum of comfort. 40" would increase viewing comfort even more. This is with my face approx 2' away from the monitor.

If you choose to use scaling, smaller monitors may be more desirable because the pixel density increases and it becomes more difficult (impossible?) for human eyes to see pixels. For example, a 24" Dell 4K display would offer more of a "Retina Display"-like experience than a 27" or 32" 4K display would.
 
The computer has a 60 GB SSD and 1TB HDD. Can I convert them to a fusion drive ?
Many thanks
You can, but I would avoid it simply because with using Clover as a bootloader the whole backup/restore/rebuild Fusion drive process becomes much more complicated than it needs to be. You never know when a drive will fail, and you have to replace it. Making that process as quick and simple as possible will save you a lot of headaches.

But if you don't mind the extra possible headaches, by all means, try it out :)
 
My transition to 4K is still a ways off but I'll get there eventually. For most of what I do works fine with 1080p so I have no good reason to upgrade right now.
You don't necessarily need extra desktop space in order to justify 4K in macOS. On a 24" or 27" monitor, 4K can give you "Retina" quality with desktop space equivalent to a 1080p or 1440p. Everything is just clearer and sharper in HiDPI mode.

But, yeah, no good reason to upgrade until you feel the need.
 
If/when you do take the leap to a 4K display, take care to consider Pixels Per Inch...

Examples:
2880x1800 @ 15.4" = 220.53PPI (current 15" MacBook Pro native resolution)
1440x900 @ 15.4" = 110.27PPI (current 15" MacBook Pro default working resolution)
3840x2160 @ 27" = 163.18PPI (27" 4K display native resolution)
1920x1080 @ 27" = 81.59PPI (27" 4K display scaled to 1080p)
3840x2160 @ 32" = 137.68PPI (32" 4K display native resolution)
3840x2160 @ 40" = 110.15PPI (40" 4K display native resolution)

My first 4K monitor was a Dell 27". I was able to see everything at it's native resolution, but it was a bit of a struggle and I ended up scaling to 3200x1200 which resulted in 126.58PPI. I later upgraded to a 32" 4K monitor because I wanted to use native resolution for the extra desktop real estate and I'm at 137.68PPI now.

I have fairly good, albeit aging, eyesight and have never worn glasses. Personally, I consider 32" (137.68PPI) to be the absolute minimum if you want to use 4K at native resolution with any modicum of comfort. 40" would increase viewing comfort even more. This is with my face approx 2' away from the monitor.

If you choose to use scaling, smaller monitors may be more desirable because the pixel density increases and it becomes more difficult (impossible?) for human eyes to see pixels. For example, a 24" Dell 4K display would offer more of a "Retina Display"-like experience than a 27" or 32" 4K display would.
Yes, I'd agree with that. If you want a "Retina" display, go for 4K at 24" or 27". If you want to use 4K at native res (non-Retina, non-HiDPI), go for 32" or higher.

I like "Retina" displays, so I went with a 27" 4K monitor and couldn't be happier (well, 5K would be better, but the price was more than double what I paid for 4K).
 
I haven't tried getting DP audio to work because my CPU has HD2500 so I can't use the onboard graphics at all. I'd assume that the VoodooHDA Kext 2.9.0 will work for you. Install AppleHDA Disabler kext to get analog audio. Try it and see.
View attachment 270236

followed your suggestion, worked perfectly! analog and digital hdmi (via displayport)

by a stroke of luck there was a computer fair today at a local college. i popped down and got an Crucial 500GB mx300 SSD for system boot.

HP 8300 i7 HD4000 Graphics with 512gb SSD Hackintosh

OSX is working well, I'm impressed

Issues

I have to have the unibeast USB in the USB to select OSX, is that normal

I have to boot with the unibeast USB removed to start in windows. I have tried to reinstall windows as non legacy but it didn't work. I was not able to match the settings in Rasmus (think that was the name), I had formatted the Windows USB as large Fat32, couldn't select Fat32 or the correct segment size.

I've broken display port to display port on eizo monitor connections. I was trying different screen res options in OS X and it went blank and it didn't come back, I can still content via DisplayPort to HDMI. I think I need to remove preference .plist file but don't where to find it in Sierra, anyone here know.
 
Issues

I have to have the unibeast USB in the USB to select OSX, is that normal

I have to boot with the unibeast USB removed to start in windows. I have tried to reinstall windows as non legacy but it didn't work. I was not able to match the settings in Rasmus (think that was the name), I had formatted the Windows USB as large Fat32, couldn't select Fat32 or the correct segment size.
Do you mean Rufus ? If you follow the guide in post #2, download the Windows 10 ISO from Microsoft, it will work. Go back and redo / reread that guide again, carefully. It's not normal to have to boot from the Unibeast USB. You can attach the Clover Config.plist from your SSD drive and we will look at it.
 
see attached
 

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see attached

You missed a few things in steps #7 and #8 of the guide. You'll need to go slower and read carefully. Follow the guide exactly as it's written, use the screenshot examples for reference. Note that you will need to leave Inject Intel checked in the config.plist as you are using HD4000 for graphics. You got that part correct, so leave it check marked if you don't have a discrete graphics card.
 
How does Sierra look on your 4K monitor ? Are you running at the native resolution ?
It looks amazing!! I am running at native resolution! It functions well!!

As far as adopting High Sierra, I'll definitely hold off like you.

Do I have to buy a specific cpu if I wanted to upgrade? Like if I wanted to use a i7 or or i5.. would it be a fairly easy switch?
 

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It looks amazing!! I am running at native resolution! It functions well!!

As far as adopting High Sierra, I'll definitely hold off like you.

Do I have to buy a specific cpu if I wanted to upgrade? Like if I wanted to use a i7 or or i5.. would it be a fairly easy switch?
Yes, it needs to be a 3rd gen. Core I CPU. Otherwise known as Ivy Bridge. The best upgrade is to the I7-3770. The Core I5-3470 or 3570 are two more options. Both I5s are quad core, but they don't have hyper-threading like the I7. You can follow the HP manual instructions. It's attached at the end of post #1. Also watch some Youtube videos on how to properly replace a CPU. Give the I3 a chance first and see if it meets your needs before swapping it out. Prices of the used Ivy Bridge cpus will only go down over time.
 
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