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[GUIDE] 4530s Display Upgrade to 1080p (Update: 2012-06-30)

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Atm there are no models of HP ProBook 4530s that are known not to work. :D


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First of all I´d like to thank you guys which made this possible, especially masso912, blueking, BigDonkey and timohour and all other people which helped.

I did the screen upgrade too. The new screen (AUO B156HW01 v4) looks really awesome and is the best laptop screen I´ve ever seen. It´s a 10000% raise of quality in comparison to the original one. Colors are so beautiful and viewing angles are awesome.

Since I´m from Austria the search for the screen panel was a horror trip since the most sellers here in Europe are selling only compatible screen panel models. They write that it is the model AUO B156HW01 v4 and in truth they ship only a compatible one. Which screen comes, depends on the sellers stock. I bought the panel on Ebay from a German seller, which declares the exact model number (Link later in this post). Prices are daily and per screen panel. The guy who bought before me had to pay 129€, I ‘only’ paid 109€ for it. Expensive in comparison to US or Canada though, but it´s worth it. I also bought the replacement HD cable of the ProBook 4730 (Part No 646274-001) from HP-Partsurfer (with free premium shipping :p ). Costs about 20€.

The replacement of the screen took me about 2,5 hours plus a few hours in advance to find Information of how to replace the screen. Since there is no thread which gives full information about this procedure I decided to make one. After I read many forum posts and got told it will be easy, I thought it will be so, but it wasn´t.

So to make it easier for others, I want to give the links plus a little guide on how to do the replacement.

First: All credits go to the makers of the code, scripts, videos and manuals.

PREREQUISITES



Needed tools:

  • Philips screwdriver (P0 or P1)
  • Torx screwdriver (T8)
  • steady hand and calmness :)
  • I´d also recommend a few small plastic bags to put the screws in. Otherwise you maybe not able to place the screws in the correct places again. And there are many, many screws ;) .


Needed hardware parts:

  • HP ProBook 4530s :cool:
  • Screen panel
    I´d recommend the AU Optronics B156HW01 v4
    It can be purchased here i.E.(I don´t get commission or something like that!!!)
    German Ebay Seller
    or
    Laptopscreen.com
  • HD replacement cable from ProBook 4730 (HP Part No 646274-001)
    It can be purchased from HP Partsurfer with free shipping:
    Replacement Cable
    On the upper right select your country. Then simply select the item click “add to cart”, then click on the cart symbol and finally on “place order”. You will be redirected to another site, which asks for country, shipping and payment data.


Needed software:

  • “Dual-Screen” patched DSDT
    Simply open your existing and WORKING DSDT (i.E. “dsdt.aml”) with a program like DSDT-Editor.

    Simply add the following code to your _DSM section:
    Code:
    "AAPL00,DualLink", 
    Buffer (0x04)
    {
    0x01, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00
    },

    And replace the "Store (Package (0x04)" with 0x06.

    It should look like this:

    Code:
      Method (_DSM, 4, NotSerialized)
                    {
                        Store (Package (0x06)
                            {
                                "hda-gfx", 
                                Buffer (0x0A)
                                {
                                    "onboard-2"
                                }, 
                                "AAPL00,DualLink", 
                                Buffer (0x04)
                                {
                                    0x01, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00
                                }, 
                                "AAPL,snb-platform-id", 
                                Buffer (0x04)
                                {
                                    0x00, 0x00, 0x01, 0x00
                                }
                            }, Local0)
                        DTGP (Arg0, Arg1, Arg2, Arg3, RefOf (Local0))
                        Return (Local0)
                    }

Now compile it and save it as dsdt1080.aml in /Extra/ (where your other dsdt.aml is). Do the compiling on your ProBook. I got errors on my desktop machine. Compiling of the same file worked on ProBook.


Guide for disassembling ProBook:
HP ProBook 4530 Service and Support Manual

Even if other people would say it´s not necessary, I would strongly recommend to completely disassemble the case of the ProBook. It´s only a few minutes of additional work and in doubt saves you nerves and money.



GUIDE


  1. Open the manual and simply start on page 47 and go through the procedures. You need to remove the HDD and the DVD drive. I also removed the dummy inserts of the card reader and the expansion slot. CPU, Memory, WWAN, Wifi can stay in their place.
  2. Next important step is on page 63: The keyboard removal.
    Simply do as described. On Step 4 be sure to use the correct hole to get the keyboard out. I would recommend, that you DO NOT use a screwdriver or something that can stick trough the keyboard backplate. Use something thicker with a big contact face, so you don´t damage the keyboard. At first time it needs to be pressed out strongly, because it is additionally fixed with some adhesive tape on the backside. Here´s a good video which shows the procedure: Keyboard removal
  3. Once you have disassembled the keyboard, work through the procedures until the end page 69. Stop here.
  4. Now switch to page 100 (Display assembly).
    I strongly recommend to work through all the steps until page 106 and completely disassemble the screen. Hint: On the procedure of page 104 there was a hidden screw under a piece of adhesive tape on the right side of the base unit of my ProBook. Remove the tape to remove the last screw.

    I recommend this, because I worked like described in some forums and showed in a video (the video later in this post). Unfortunately the bordered brackets of the screen cover, other than the screw mounts, are out of a very cheap plastic and can easily be broken if the display case stays mounted to the base unit. I broke the holding and had to glue it very carefully. Since HP is crazy with the spare part prices, the replacement cover would cost about 100€. This part must cost them under 3€ in purchase, because it is really made in very cheap way and out of cheap material formula. And believe me, I know what I´m talking about plastic materials. Also the display cable for 20€ is an insolence in reality.
  5. Once on page 106 you should remove the display bezel.
    The bezel remove procedure is showed in this video: Display bezel
    To repeat again: I DO NOT recommend, the display to be mounted on the base unit, when doing this. This video is only to show how to remove the bezel, because it is not well described in the manual.
  6. When you´ve done this start over to page 108 and do as described. If you do it another way, you´ll risk to damage the cover or the brackets.
  7. Now the disassembling is done. Simply replace the panel with the new one and connect the replacement cable to the back of the panel. Check that the contacts are well placed and press the adhesive part of the cable on the back so that the cable is fixed. Now remove the original cable from the base unit and replace it with the new one. Do the cable routing like it was with the old one. Plug the cable and check that everything is routed and plugged well. Especially the Wifi cables are a little bit tricky in routing.
  8. Simply reverse the steps.
    I repeat: Check every plugged cable 2 times, so you can be sure that you don´t have a faulty connection, which afterwards produces errors and prevents you from booting.
  9. If the display powers on when you switch on the ProBook, everything should be alright. If it´s not up, recheck the cables :| . If it boots up, the display won´t work correct in MacOS. In my case it showed the Desktop, but all was green/red and flickering, also wrong resolution. So reboot and use the prepared “Dual-Screen” patched DSDT. To do so you have to press any key in Chimera-Bootmanager and write i.E. “DSDT=/Extra/dsdt1080.aml” without the quotes and press Enter.
  10. Your new screen should now be up and running in correct way. If so, you can go on and backup your original dsdt.aml to save location, delete it from /Extra/ Folder and rename the "dsdt1080.aml" to "dsdt.aml".


That´s it.

P.S.: There is no need to replace any camera cable, since it will work when you do it this way.

Just a quick question, Will the 1600x900 model in the link below work? (Its just a bit cheaper and I'm assuming less demand on the video card) If not is there a screen thats the native res that has better colour and viewing angles?

https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/HP-Compaq/PROBOOK~4530S/

Emmy XoX
 
Just a quick question, Will the 1600x900 model in the link below work? (Its just a bit cheaper and I'm assuming less demand on the video card) If not is there a screen thats the native res that has better colour and viewing angles?

https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/HP-Compaq/PROBOOK~4530S/

Emmy XoX

Well, as it is with these kind of things, you never know until you try. I almost went that route when I was considering my screen upgrade. In the end, I was convinced that the text woudn't be too small, so I went with the 1080p screen instead. It has been a good change, although I need to use my reading glasses if I have my contacts in, and I need to remove my glasses if I'm not wearing contacts at the moment. Problem of old eyes not working like they used to.

But 1600x900 will probably work... if you search this thread maybe you'll find someone who did the change and can confirm. Might be a rare upgrade, as most go to 1080p with the 15" display...
 
Well, as it is with these kind of things, you never know until you try. I almost went that route when I was considering my screen upgrade. In the end, I was convinced that the text woudn't be too small, so I went with the 1080p screen instead. It has been a good change, although I need to use my reading glasses if I have my contacts in, and I need to remove my glasses if I'm not wearing contacts at the moment. Problem of old eyes not working like they used to.

But 1600x900 will probably work... if you search this thread maybe you'll find someone who did the change and can confirm. Might be a rare upgrade, as most go to 1080p with the 15" display...

First thanks heaps for the speedy reply RehabMan. I have two questions, Are you running 16gb of ram if so does the system allocate more then 512mb to the HD3000? secondly Being a higher Res I'm assuming will it affect video performance, i.e. The dock, launch pad and Notification Centre animations and use more battery?

Thanks again

Em XoX
 
First thanks heaps for the speedy reply RehabMan. I have two questions, Are you running 16gb of ram if so does the system allocate more then 512mb to the HD3000?

On my ProBook, I'm running 8GB of RAM. HP does not recommend more than 8GB (in spec sheet and in service manual). That said, people do manage to make 16GB work. To me, 16GB is overkill for laptop workloads.

I do have 16GB on my desktop. It is also overkill, except where I run VMs and such (usually to test out different systems). But "About This Mac" only shows "Intel HD Graphics 3000 512 MB"

secondly Being a higher Res I'm assuming will it affect video performance, i.e. The dock, launch pad and Notification Centre animations and use more battery?

Not sure about battery (during normal/idle use) as I've never measured it. Performance is identical as far as I can tell. This makes sense, as these items are not "scaled up" for the higher resolution screen, so the same number of pixels are involved. One would expect full screen videos to use more CPU/GPU (therefore more battery) due to pushing more pixels to the screen each frame.
 
On my ProBook, I'm running 8GB of RAM. HP does not recommend more than 8GB (in spec sheet and in service manual). That said, people do manage to make 16GB work. To me, 16GB is overkill for laptop workloads.

I do have 16GB on my desktop. It is also overkill, except where I run VMs and such (usually to test out different systems). But "About This Mac" only shows "Intel HD Graphics 3000 512 MB"



Not sure about battery (during normal/idle use) as I've never measured it. Performance is identical as far as I can tell. This makes sense, as these items are not "scaled up" for the higher resolution screen, so the same number of pixels are involved. One would expect full screen videos to use more CPU/GPU (therefore more battery) due to pushing more pixels to the screen each frame.

I guess if i want to see what kind of tax 1080 would/could put on the system I can just plug it into my tv. Im personally happy with the resolution (un till I see a retina MacBook ha ha) The reason I wanted 16gb is I used an audio plug-in for Garage Band that uses a lot of Ram. Again though, just wondering if you know of a gloss screen with better colors and viewing angles? Thanks again for getting back to me :D
 
I guess if i want to see what kind of tax 1080 would/could put on the system I can just plug it into my tv. Im personally happy with the resolution (un till I see a retina MacBook ha ha) The reason I wanted 16gb is I used an audio plug-in for Garage Band that uses a lot of Ram. Again though, just wondering if you know of a gloss screen with better colors and viewing angles? Thanks again for getting back to me :D

I've only seen the original and my 1080p, so that's all I can offer observations for. The AUOv4 has much better picture at offset viewing angles and has better color. Mine is matte because I like matte displays (if I want a mirror, I visit the washroom).
 
Hi... i've been reading this thread for a while... I'm from Romania and I ordered the display from the german ebay seller, and the display cable from amazon.co.uk. Fortunately I have a friend in the UK who ordered it for me and shipping was through normal postal service about 3 pounds and it reached me in 4 days...

The entire process, following the guide, took me about 1 and a half hours... I had read the guide 3-4 times before i had the components shipped to me, so i knew very well what I was doing. The only problem I encountered was when I had to take the top of the laptop down, there were about 5-6 torx screws that were not in the guide, so I risked to break something. Luckyly I took them out in time so everything was allright. Piece of advice: take out all the screws from the bottom side...

For the people who want to try this: really really really do follow every step of the process and pay attention to evety screw. I placed them in groups in a plastic icecube maker... you can try anything but don't lose them... there are many screws.

If it's worthed... YES ... it is... totally... the new display looks so so much better than the old one.

I'm running W8, not MacOS, and at the first windows boot up i had a very freaky greenish-interferenced-tiled screen, but after a restart it was ok... that kinda freaked me out, but it turned out to be ok after all.

Thanx a lot to the people who made an effort to create this guide, you guys rock :)
 
Thanks for the terrific guide. replaced my crappy 1366x768 matte display with the b156hw01 v7 AUO display from laptopscreen.com. Friggin looks like a whole new PC! I used the latest hp probook installer to install the 1080p driver and shut the pc down then went about replacing screens. I had to order the new 40 pin cable from HP parts supply (was around $32 with shipping) and the display from laptopscreen with shipping was around $105. But now, with the new screen, i7 processor, and 8gb ram this pc is smokin' =) Did it all for under $600 total including the laptop. No way in hell you could buy a MBP that matches it for near the price at all.
 
... replaced my crappy 1366x768 matte display with the b156hw01 v7 AUO display

The original poster specified a v4 panel, and you report a v7. Does the panel version matter? You are confirming the v7 (at least) works as well?

Can anyone say what is the problem with a 'compatible' panel? Ok, I need an actual, but why?

Is the color not so good, or maybe the quality suspect, or does it actually just not work unless it's the actual AUO panel? That would be helpful to know.

Thanks.
 
Hi guys
could you tell me where did you buy your genuine screen because I am looking everything but nothing. The one motion in this long trade is out of stock. I am in the USA so can you share with me, I only need the screen because I already bought the cable..
Thanks to everyone
 
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