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G5 Front Panel Quick Guide

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You're the man! This solution finally worked for me.
(Although I have no idea what I really was doing. I think "NC" means "Not connected", so "no current on those pins"?)

So out of curiosity, how did you know connecting those two NC-pins would fix the problem?

Thanks!
 
tulpixo said:
You're the man! This solution finally worked for me.
(Although I have no idea what I really was doing. I think "NC" means "Not connected", so "no current on those pins"?)

So out of curiosity, how did you know connecting those two NC-pins would fix the problem?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I'm glad it works. There are 2 standards available on motherboards, HD Audio with autodetection support and AC'97. According to HD audio those 2 pins used for autodetection. I didn't time yet to test it (I'm sleeving PSU cables now ;-) that's why I do not shown it in my diagram.

Audio_pin_out.JPG
 
Hi guys, i've recently started on my own mod but i can't seem to get the pwr button working. I'm starting to think that it's broken as i've followed every instruction here and elsewhere.

Here're the symptoms:

When I plug the the pwr+ cable to the g5 FP and plug in the G5, the pc immediately boots up (without me pressing the button) and shuts down after a while, as if it has been long-pressed. This doesn't go away even if i ground FW gnd.

Just wanted to check if anyone else has had this issue.

i've tried different motherboards and have used the motherboards in other cases so i have ruled out the problem being from my motherboard.
 
thehrbhrb said:
Hi guys, i've recently started on my own mod but i can't seem to get the pwr button working. I'm starting to think that it's broken as i've followed every instruction here and elsewhere.

Here're the symptoms:

When I plug the the pwr+ cable to the g5 FP and plug in the G5, the pc immediately boots up (without me pressing the button) and shuts down after a while, as if it has been long-pressed. This doesn't go away even if i ground FW gnd.

Just wanted to check if anyone else has had this issue.

i've tried different motherboards and have used the motherboards in other cases so i have ruled out the problem being from my motherboard.
Click to expand...

What you could do is test to see if that button is broken.

It should be like any other button switch, meaning it’s an open gap in a circuit. Pressing the button will briefly close the gap on the circuit to send a signal.

A broken switch can be stuck in a closed or open state. Like it’s permanently pushed in for example.

If you have a breadboard or another test switch you could narrow down the behavior. Hope this helps.
 
metaldoom said:
What you could do is test to see if that button is broken.

It should be like any other button switch, meaning it’s an open gap in a circuit. Pressing the button will briefly close the gap on the circuit to send a signal.

A broken switch can be stuck in a closed or open state. Like it’s permanently pushed in for example.

If you have a breadboard or another test switch you could narrow down the behavior. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Hey! thanks for the quick reply. That's exactly what i did. I disconnected the FP board and basically touched the cables to the soldered points on the button itself. Here's what i found, there're 3 cables from the button positioned like this when viewed upright from inside the case:

I I I
1 2 3

Cable 1 is LED +ve, 2 is PWR +ve and 3 is GND.

Correct me if I'm wrong. Anyway, everything works fine with the button when i connect the wires straight to it. Which means my FP board is faulty. I'll keep the original button and figure out a way to replace the board.
 
I started this build in December 2018 and started on this cable in July 2019, but am only now actually finishing it. :beachball:

I ordered a special pair of pliers to crimp the connectors and one of those boxes full of connectors and housings. TIP: The SN-28B works perfectly for these Dupont connectors. They took 2 months to arrive from China because of course, I'm in Europe so I can't order from the US unless for shipping prices that were multitudes higher than the pliers cost. Watched two hours of youtube vid's just to understand how to do it.

And now, while finally checking what wire is connected to which pin again, finding out that for the power button and power LED I only need three wires! LOL :D


Anyway I'll continue tomorrow. If the power button and LED work, I'll also try to
  1. Connect the front USB
  2. Make a reset-button (and drill it in the PCI-e card back I/O slot so the G5 case outside stays untouched).
  3. Maybe even connect front audio if I can figure out how to enable it
  4. Glue a USB-C connector in the spot where the FireWire connector used to be (since I think I'll never use FW for this machine). And connect it to the USB-C header on the motherboard. I don't even have a USB-C compatible device yet, but at least this case will be future-proof
 
laptopleon said:
I started this build in December 2018 and started on this cable in July 2019, but am only now actually finishing it. :beachball:

I ordered a special pair of pliers to crimp the connectors and one of those boxes full of connectors and housings. TIP: The SN-28B works perfectly for these Dupont connectors. They took 2 months to arrive from China because of course, I'm in Europe so I can't order from the US unless for shipping prices that were multitudes higher than the pliers cost. Watched two hours of youtube vid's just to understand how to do it.

And now, while finally checking what wire is connected to which pin again, finding out that for the power button and power LED I only need three wires! LOL :D


Anyway I'll continue tomorrow. If the power button and LED work, I'll also try to
  1. Connect the front USB
  2. Make a reset-button (and drill it in the PCI-e card back I/O slot so the G5 case outside stays untouched).
  3. Maybe even connect front audio if I can figure out how to enable it
  4. Glue a USB-C connector in the spot where the FireWire connector used to be (since I think I'll never use FW for this machine). And connect it to the USB-C header on the motherboard. I don't even have a USB-C compatible device yet, but at least this case will be future-proof
Click to expand...

Because my front panel was broken, I actually decided to use it as a base to build my own IO connectors. I had the exact idea as you with the firewire USB-C. But first I ripped out the USB2 on the board and glued a USB3 FP connector to it. Im planning to drill a hole into the firewire connector so it looks like firewire but hides a USBC in plain sight.
 
The front button works for starting the computer and for waking the Hackintosh out of sleep mode, but not for putting it in sleep mode. Is this as good as it gets? (Mojave 10.14.6, vanilla install)
 
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