G4 Quicksilver switch

[vince026]

I'm decent with soldering. What would be easier following this guide or is there a guide for the hardwiring job?

 

[minihack]

I'm decent with soldering. What would be easier following this guide or is there a guide for the hardwiring job?

If you can understand the guide then follow the guide (I think it is neater).

Hardwiring simply means, on the front of the board, to solder the power switch connections to the top left (+) and bottom left (-) connections of S1 to give power + and -. And then to do the same across the LED connections (back of board) to get the LED + and -.

If you can tell me which parts of my guide you cannot understand then I will try to help.

 

[jhsweeney]

Thanks for the post. It was exactly what I needed to know - and VERY easy to follow!

 

[vince026]

My G4 hackintosh is working now.

i want to give you a beer for the effort. Without you i wouldn't have a working G4 case.

 

[minihack]

My G4 hackintosh is working now.

Do you have a paypal adres minihack? i want to give you a beer for the effort. Without you i wouldn't have a working G4 case.

It'll have to be a virtual beer!! Can't accept a reward for freely given help.
Glad your system is working nicely. A pleasure to have been some use.

 

[the_gael]

you can put connectors onto your ribbon cable as follows:

Cable 4: LED +
Cable 5: Power Switch +[or if you made your wire go to pin 2, 6 or 9 then of course use that cable]
Cable 7 (or 8): LED -
Cable 8 (or 7): Power Switch -

OK - this is the bit I don't follow - what connectors are you using? Do you have a photo? I have the ribbon cable with the 10 pin connector on the end of it. Did you remove the 10 pin connector and attach the normal ATX connector cables to the specific wires or did you use some other connectors?

 

[minihack]

you can put connectors onto your ribbon cable as follows:

Cable 4: LED +
Cable 5: Power Switch +[or if you made your wire go to pin 2, 6 or 9 then of course use that cable]
Cable 7 (or 8): LED -
Cable 8 (or 7): Power Switch -

OK - this is the bit I don't follow - what connectors are you using? Do you have a photo? I have the ribbon cable with the 10 pin connector on the end of it. Did you remove the 10 pin connector and attach the normal ATX connector cables to the specific wires or did you use some other connectors?

Using the original flat ribbon cable, where the red cable is cable 1, the next is 2 etc.....and the ATX connectors are soldered, spliced or crimped onto the relevant cable numbers.

 

[the_gael]

you can put connectors onto your ribbon cable as follows:

Cable 4: LED +
Cable 5: Power Switch +[or if you made your wire go to pin 2, 6 or 9 then of course use that cable]
Cable 7 (or 8): LED -
Cable 8 (or 7): Power Switch -

OK - this is the bit I don't follow - what connectors are you using? Do you have a photo? I have the ribbon cable with the 10 pin connector on the end of it. Did you remove the 10 pin connector and attach the normal ATX connector cables to the specific wires or did you use some other connectors?

Using the original flat ribbon cable, where the red cable is cable 1, the next is 2 etc.....and the ATX connectors are soldered, spliced or crimped onto the relevant cable numbers.

Ah yes - I will do the same - should make it nice and neat! Many thanks

 

[colinzeal]

Hey

Great guide. I gutted an old PC, got it up and running great. I've put it into a G4 Quicksilver case and I'm happy. I want to keep the original look by using the original button from the case. To power on my mobo, I just have to connect the 2 cables and the system powers on.

I'd like to keep the existing power button from the G4 Quicksilver case. Does the default power button (closest to LED) make a connection between the 2 wires if I solder them? And at what places, as there are 4 possible soldering points around the switch.

Best

 

[colinzeal]

I finally did it and it worked.

I found the 2 leads that were for the Power LED and just touched them to the soldered parts at the back of the LED on the board. It worked so I soldered them on.

As for the switch, I soldered the power wires onto the "left" side of the switch. (Longest edges being the top and bottom). It doesn't matter which order they go on. To stop it shorting, I used a screwdriver to sever any pre-printed wiring within the board.

Works a treat!