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G4 Cube - MT0.2-ST-NR-N

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G4 Cube

At first - thanks for the idea to update a cube. Thanks to all the people who posted all the information about their builds.

My G4 Cube Build is kind of finished. Only a little bit of "polishing" is needed.

One detail which needs a bit of polishing is the touch sensor MT0.2-ST-NR-N. I have attached the cabels to the Motherboard Power Pins and the ATX Pin 9 (24Pol). The Sensor works fine so far touching/moving over it directly. But when I attache the "component box" into the case the sensor is not working through the acryl. Both metal parts removed (outer/inner case), I attached the old holding mechanism for the new sensor.

I used the blueprint sleppeks cube 2.1 only a few modifications were made (because of my lack in handiwork and absence of many useful tools...)

Any suggestions?
 
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Hi eksirf, I used the Edisen in all 3 Cubes I've done. Can you take a photo and post it? I'm a little unclear about exactly what your config is. On all my builds, the only thing between the sensor and the Acrylic is the thin piece of white plastic-paper that sits on the top surface of the Cube.

Would be good to see some pics of the entire project when you're done.


Cheers!

Ersterhernd
 
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Config and build is based on

http://www.tonymacx86.com/golden-builds/96127-sleppeks-cube-2-1-build-core-i7-3770t-ga-z77n-wifi-16gb-ram-500gb-ssd-ati-6670-a.html#top

SSD is an other one, PSU is located direct on the Motherboard - I am not sure if the PSU position is such a good idea - I have an eye on the temperature.

BIOS Configuration:
I can't select PCI, it's not in the selection menu - Init Display First: PCI so I selected "Auto".
Graphic ASUS EAH 6670/DIS/1GD5 is also not working well. Maybe because of the BIOS setting, maybe because I don't know which ATI600*.kext I should install. The one locates in /System/Libary/Extension or the one saved before deleted?

Story: I am a long time apple Laptop user but never used Apple as my Desktop-"PC". I have seen the Cube 2.1 build an have...kind of fallen in love.
So I decided amazon needs my money. I haven't done some pictures while disassembling and building - because I am only working with screwdriver and dremel (plus an angle grinder lent from my neighbor). Many parts inside are looking...kind of scary and...not even.

The most interesting thing about my cube is the coating. I have coated the whole case new. Because I don't know the exact material of the plastic top of the case and because of the flexibility of this "thing" I have been very limited in choosing a coating system. I decided to use a 1K waterborne system. After sanding (400/1000er) one layer of a white base coat has been applied. Shortly after that I applied one layer of a clear coat. I have added some effect pigment to this clear coat (Iriodin icy white for an "ice effect" and a little bit of a Xirallic Type. Unfortunately the nice effect is very hard to picture. Because the case is inside an acrylic glas case I decided not to use a clear top coat on top. Because of that the surface is very touchy.

Pictures:
The whole case - acryl is not polished yet.
IMG_0266.jpg
Cable mess. As you can see the PSU is located directly "on board"
IMG_0272.jpg
Top view. I also have removed the metal from the top case (3x3cm).
IMG_0273.jpg
the top panel from the back side (the sticker is removed from the sensor, the sensor is behind the metal plated screwed to the top panel)
IMG_0274.jpg
sensor side view
IMG_0275.jpg
PSU (2 Pin 9 are marked - funny thing, I have looked up the ATX 24Pol "configuration" at google. I got two results ;-) (My thumb is hiding the top row) Hard to see: the cable is connected to the second marking.
IMG_0276.jpg

 
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The build looks great, its incredible how both you and Sleppek fit that all in there.

Perhaps the reason for your sensor issue is that the unit is a little to far away from the acrylic case. I've mounted my sensor(s) as shown below, on the outside of the inner metal shell, with 3M sticky pads to hold in place. I cut a hole in the outer can to accomodate the sensor position. This places the Edisen almost right up against the acrylic, with only a paper thin layer of the white plastic-paper top of the cube in between the sensor and perspex.














Hope this may help. All my Edisens work perfectly every time.


Ersterhernd
 
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Thank you very much - for the compliment and the advice. But Sleppeks Cube is much more advanced. After trying to copy the Cube I really want to have a look closer at his build! I don't know how to add an additional drive...and I really want to. 120GB SSD is to small, bigger SSDs are to expensive. My plan was to build an "fusion drive" - I have read it should be possible. But I even had to remove one acryl glas bracket - fortunately everything is so full, I don't need to fixate some of the components.
After copying Sleppeks build I am showing more respect for some asian people who may be "inspired" by some products. Even when a project is well documented I still have to improvise.


I liked the idea of mounting the sensor in the inner case. At first I thought results should be the best mounting the sensor direct to the top behind the plastic foil. But while disassembling I learned that die foil is coated from behind or at least has a very sensitive backside. Because of this and because the seperation of inner/outer case would get complicate I abandon this thought.
I will try to "jack up" the sensor - again thanks for advice!

Graphic seems to work now - I have used a kext file I have found in the depth of the www.
 
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You seem to have placed the sensor upside down in your build, the wires from the sensor should go 'down' (e.g. the sensor's 3M sticky pad pointing to the top of the cube). Slepped added a 3mm plexiglas with a 3mm LED on top of the sensor to illuminate the power state, the visible wires in the pictures of his build are from the LED, not the sensor.
 
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ersterhernd - I have, kind of, jacked up the sensor. It is working now - but not as good as I have expected.

As far as I know the sensor is not installed upside down. Please notice one picture shows the top plate of the case turned around (274). As you can see on picture no. 273 the M3 side of the sensor is on top.

Problems to solve:
  • There is a "little" temperature problem. CPU temperature reaches 90°C after 15min of full load (I stopped here). I have plans to shorten some of the cables (better air flow), also moving the psu away from the motherboard. If I can find some space: installing an other fan on the bottom of the case (more fresh air).
  • As far as I can see in tools the fan is only running at one rpm - maybe this is also a reason for high CPU temperatures.
    I am not sure what to do about this.
  • on board sound is not working.
    Also not sure how to solve.
 
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Hi eksirf, if your system is taking 15 mins to reach shutdown temp, then a simple bios adjustment of turbo wattage will likely solve your issue. It did for me with my i7.

This will slow the maximim turbo overclocked speed to a slightly less ratio, and will probably trim your temps down to a sustainable level. There's a lot packed into that tiny shell, it's bound to get warm in there.

Good luck.
 
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Again - thank you.

After reading your post I "suddenly" see in the screens sleppek used an idle multiplikator of 16 instead of 25. I did this and also reduced the turbo wattage to 38 - which seems to result in a turbo multiplikator of 31.
Temperature is better, but not quite good. I am going to "reinstall" the CPU cooler. Had some problems here. Screwing the screws behind the MB while holding the CPU cooler and trying not to wobble the cooler wasn't so simple.

I also updated the Bios to F4 - some new options available but still no sound. LAN works out of the box. Using the multibeast driver it did wake up after overnight sleep and LAN seems to be ok. Haven't done sleep tests using the "out of the box LAN" jet.
 
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Eksirf, perhaps someone else can step in here and help you out. I have no experience with the motherboard you are using, unfortunately. There are several others on the forum that do, though.

I know if the CPU cooler is fastened down too tight, a motherboard will flex. Ensure this isn't the case with yours, that's too tight. However, a clean surface and proper application of thermal paste is essential to heat transfer efficiency.

Good luck!
 
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