First of all, welcome to the world of case modding. This forum is an absolute wealth of info and exchange of ideas.
Most of the methodology I implemented into my 2nd G5 was also implemented in my first G5 case build. Included here are instructions for how I accomplished final presentation. In both my G5 builds I chose to use a dropped PSU rather than to dissect a sealed unit. There's mixed opinions on the PSU subject on this forum, but I chose to follow this route because it very effectively provided the clean look I wanted without voiding the PSU warranty or creating any risk of a potential electrical short. Furthermore, my home insurance policy contains language about modified electrical equipment beyond manufactured specifications, its just something I chose not to mess with.
I purchased my materials from a a local MetalMart shop here. I keep the protective film on all the plating material until the very last step of peeling it off. Measurements will be specific to your build, so I cannot provide those to you. I used a dremel 3000 and #426 reinforced cutting wheels for all my cuts. I recommend practicing a little before you begin, and always measure twice, cut once.
Planning your cable management strategy is the FIRST step. Knowing exactly where EVERY cable will be routed is essential to a clean and polished final appearance. The G5 PSU design graciously gives you 1/2" of clearance against the rear case that allows routing all your power cables through the side of it and up into the case while remaining hidden behind a cover plate as shown in my G5 builds. This 1/2" of space is a huge gift for effective cable management.
You're decision to locally purchase a complete G5 is a good one. There's plenty out there, so be patient and get a perfect unit if you can. Be aware that the late 2005 model has a different front panel PCB than it's predecessors that will need replacement if you buy that model. My 2nd G5 was as such.
I've asked before about attaching the front panel PCB power thing to the late-2005 G5 case.
You said that you acquired a 2004 version of the PCB and mounted into the late-05 case so that you could use AlohaCab's cable in your second build.
What I wanted to know was.......did you simply plug the 2004 PCB into the late-2005 case's power button? Or did you have to replace the entire power button PCB and plug with the earlier 2004 edition?
I'm curious to know if the power button plugs are wired differently between the 2 models. I've learned that the late 2005 G5 power button/plug is compatable with the Mac Pro power button. If the 2004 G5 PCB works with the late-05 power button, then you could plug it into a Mac Pro case and use AlohaCab's cable to power that up.
I wonder if any Mac Pro modders have tried this.
Hi were you able to add the apple chime?? i have been trying for days to get it to work following judahs tutorial to no avail... i linked the power button header to the + of the board and the negative to a spot thats for ground on my mono.. my system however would turn on automatically without me pressing a button and it would shut down... any work arounds??? hope you can help
I know this build was long, long ago. But I was curious whether you used the original Apple power cable with your ATX PSU.
The power socket on these late 2005's was larger than the previous editions (more like a server power cable). Were you able to simply splice the ATX power supply cable with this larger power socket and make it work?
I couldn't find a build log for this project, so I'm hoping you can remember what you did.
First I cut the Antec PSU cord to length, removing the USA three-prong plug. Length was about 6 inches, and I stripped the end of each of the 3 inner wires.
Next, I simply spliced (inside the PSU shell) the Live, Neutral and Earth wires with solder to the Apple socket wires. Finally, I then wrapped each with electrical tape to prevent shorts. The Apple wires were brown (live), blue (neutral) and green/yellow (earth). I can't remember exactly what the Antec wires were... white (live), black (neutral) and green/yellow (earth) I think.
Was a simple but effective solution to re-use the original apple power cord and socket.