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Ersterhernds iMac G5 20 Inch A1076 Project

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Thanks for the link. I actually have a USB Y laying around. I will test it when the adapter comes in.

In splicing the ac line inside the PSU where did you tap in, not much wire in there. Did you splice before or after the donut ring with wires looping through? What is the purpose of that ceramic or steel ring. Is it needed?
 

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The ferrite ring is there to reduce RF interference. Very common in most electromagnetically sensitive environments.

I spliced as close as possible to the pcb of the psu so all soldered connections remain inside the psu shell. Make SURE the connections are firm and secure and well insulated from shorting.

It wasn't easy but it worked great.
 
Hi ersterhernd
The problem with the backlights of my LCD panel still exist. I don't see any light when I connect the inverter cables to the PSU (the 3.3v and the backlight wire are both connected to the 3.3v pin of the PSU).
Furthermore, the rear of my panel doesn't have any hole to check the correct functioning of the backlights. It is an IDTech M201Z2. Do I forget to connect something? I haven't made the TMDS conversion yet and everything worked before I started the mod :cry::banghead:
 

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Have you got 24V going to the inverter?

The backlights won't light up if you don't.
 
Well I can say for sure, you can put in a laptop board in this thing. Laptop boards are ideal for the iMac with some work arounds. They are thin, low power, quiet, and getting smaller and smaller. I’ve resurrected an iMac that was sitting dead for years. Thanks to these help threads on this forum, and to you Ersterhernds. Difficult? yes, mistakes made? plenty. However its doable. Most notable workaround thing is, for me anyway, you must have the LED inverter attached otherwise the HDMI will not work. All works just fine. However the relay is not bullet proof. Powering down sometimes is quick sometimes not so quick. If you power up right after a shutdown, it may not power up the PSU. Has happened a couple times only for me.
Ersterhernd you have same issues?
Some additional things to do. Add an extra 2.5” HD in the optical bay area, microphone by USB and wifi card. Do some long term test to see if additional cooling is needed. Only using one main fan with cpu fan. There is a slight hum on these original main fans, yours do as well? Forgotten how they sound. The cpu fan is dead silent.
 

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Excellent, you've certainly broken some new ground with this build, carl. I'll bet you were thrilled when it ran for the first time.

I've had no issues whatsoever with the iMac G5 on/off function. The whirrring noise of the G5 fans is one of the signatures that prove it's vintage, I enjoy the sound. Definitely wire in the mic as Sierra has Siri built in so there'll be more chance to use a mic function.

You really should create a build log of the project in a new thread of your own. There's info in your methodology that should be posted for others to utilize. This kind of work needs to be showcased.


Cheers!
Ersterhernd
 
I'll bet you were thrilled when it ran for the first time
Almost fell out my chair when turned on. Especially all the trouble i had with ps contacts. I used mactester method soldering on the switch pads. Much easier. Never tested the switch. Only test was when i closed it and powered.
You really should create a build log of the project in a new thread of your own.
Yeah will see when all and done and stable. Now dealing with this wifi card i bought that i thought would be native but have to do alot work with kext and patches it seem. Not good at that stuff. Should have read into it better. Btw what temps are normal? Ran a hr or so first time heard cpu fan. Cores were 58 to 63. Felt some hot air exhausting. May need to hook up the other fan.
 
Could you tell the wiring match up of the imac microphone and a 3.5mm jack wiring? I can hardly get any sound out of it.
You have brown, grey, and black on the mic. On the 3.5mm cable you got red, white, and shield.
 
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