Contribute
Register

Ersterhernds iMac G5 20 Inch A1076 Project

Status
Not open for further replies.
Do you use the original serial#'s on your builds? I notice you have the correct info in the About this Mac screenshot?

I was doing this with my eHack, but after the last Mavericks update and Yosemite update, things got screwy and I lost iMessage, even after I corrected the serial. I may switch to clover to fix this.

Mike
 
Hi Mykuls, I lost iMessage some time ago on all my machines. It requires a call to Apple to unlock your AppleID with iMessage. I tried to do it, but didn't work. I don't pay much attention to the serial, just generate a random one with Clover. Btw Clover did not fix the iMessage issue.


Cheers!
 
I Mod my iMac G5 20 Inch A1076 please help meHow to connection BC547B link power and Nuc?THX
 
Build Log 01 -- AC/DC Power Map

This iMac uses a fairly simple map by which to take 120V AC power from the mains and distribute it using the required DC voltages inside the computer. The iMac uses its native power cord as originally, and also its native 180W internal power supply. Fortunately, with this system being in near-new condition, the inside of the Apple PSU appears to show no signs of wear at all; it is shiny and new inside without any capacitor bulge or discolored copper. It should last many years in this application, given that it will only typically output about 20% of its capacity under normal use. The Apple PSU sits in standby mode when the NUC is powered off, and comes to life when the iMac native power button is pressed. It then supplies all 3.3 5.0 12.0 and 24.0 volt DC power to the system components.

A second internal power supply is also used. It is the 65W 19V PSU supplied with the Intel D54250WYK. It is used to hold the NUC in standby mode, and power on the NUC when the iMac power button is pressed. The AC power cord to this PSU was simply cut off and the wires were spliced into the AC wires inside the Apple 180W PSU. This allowed only the native power plug to be required on the rear of the iMac, rather than two individual plugs for the two PSU's.


Two internal power supplies with AC spliced to the native iMac power socket for use with the original Apple power cord. A clean and effective solution.

IMG_0762.JPG



The AC line to the NUC PSU is shown below coming out of the Apple PSU.
The AC wires of the two PSU's are spliced inside the shell of the iMac PSU.

xD74eT.jpg



On the DC side of the power map, the flow is once again quite simple. The NUC PSU supplies 19V to the D54250WYK via a 5.5mm/2.5mm barrel connector to the NUC's exterior plug. The NUC essentially just sits in wait for the pins 6 and 8 of it's Front Panel Header to short and start the NUC. The iMac native power button is wired directly to pins 6 & 8 to accomplish this. See Kiwi's post for the details of that.


The 19V supply from the NUC PSU to the D54250WYK via the barrel connector.

IMG_0715.JPG




When the iMac power button is pressed and the NUC starts, the next step is to start the Apple 180W PSU for DC supply to the rest of the system. This was accomplished through a relay. By connecting pin 9 of the NUC Front Panel Header to the relay then grounding it to the NUC reset switch GND pin 5, the relay remains powered whenever the NUC is on.

With the other end of the relay wired to the PS-ON pin and GND pin of the iMac PSU, the closed circuit completes and the remainder of the system powers on via the iMac PSU, supplying 3.3V 5V 12V or 24V as required. When the NUC is powered down through OSX, the relay shuts off and so does the iMac PSU, returning to standby mode.


The relay when powered on from pin 9 of the NUC Front Panel Header.
The iMac PSU is powered on when the red light on the relay is lit up.

yw1Jmj.jpg




Ersterhernd

I Mod my iMac G5 20 Inch A1076


please help me
How to connection BC547B link power and Nuc?
 
Hi Ersterhernds

Great writeup, and great build, you have done a through job to include pretty much everything, the only thing I would personally add is the ethernet on the rear IO.

Your power solution (internal NUC PSU) is a good solution for keeping the build simple and reliable.

The placement of the NUC (lower) and the cutting of the mid frame does have another advantage in that the CPU intake fan is more open and closer to fresh air in the bottom of the case. My concern against this is cutting the mid frame, reducing its strength, it is already quite thin and flexible (in parts), and also provides rigidity to the main plastic outer case.

In my build I had to actually remove a couple of the “furls” you mention in you writeup, one came into contact with the NUC, and one in contact with the SMC unit. To anyone following this build, this is an option but I wouldn’t recommend removing to many of them.

One suggestion (to anyone following) for improvement would be to remove the second connector of the “Startech 8 inch ATX Cable”, and splice directly to the free cable ends, it removes some of the bulk, and allows the individual cables to be more directly routed.

The Startech ICUSBAUDIOB solution looks good, I have had issues with noise coming from the onboard NUC audio, so might consider this upgrade.

Bluetooth, well done something else I omitted, favoring a USB (external) dongle.

A couple of questions

Q1. You cut an access port in the mid frame for the LCD TMDS cable. Why did you do this rather than route via the original cable path
Q2. Interesting you implemented the ISD chime, how do you find the quality? My quality was so bad I just gave up, but have now ordered a different module, maybe the MIC quality was the issue.
Q3. Since you are the only modder to convert both iSight and non-iSight models of iMac, which would you recommend (and why) to builders, to achieve the best overall outcome?

Kiwi.

Hi cumik2, yes you are correct. The reason I do this is because I have an affinity for older Apple hardware. To be honest, going into an Apple dealer and purchasing a new one does not interest me at all.

Hopefully we will continue to see more of this restorative work done on the old machines.

Cheers!
In my opinion is that it is about the challenge of building a modern computer that stays true to the original apple design. Remember the iMac itself hasn’t fundamentally changed changed in the last 10 years when the sunflower was retired, and potentially this sort of an upgrade could give 5-10 years more life to the computer. I guess its similar to people restoring classic cars.

Kiwi
 
Hi Apple,

I couldn't get the BC547B to pull the iMac PSU on. Perhaps resistance could be added to the circuit (kiwi or Mactester thoughts?) but I chose to isolate the NUC from the apple psu via the relay as shown in my description of the power map.

The optical isolation relay was only 4 dollars. I got it at the prodctodc.com website.

http://www.prodctodc.com/5v-relay-isolation-control-panel-module-with-optical-isolators-controller-p-291.html#.VIG-X8u9KSM

Ersterhernd
The solution to use a transistor SHOULD work, and was well documented here.

http://www.tonymacx86.com/imac-mods/124456-ersterhernds-imac-g5-isight-17-project-3.html

I myself had the opposite (failsafe) design where an active signal (+5V) from the SMC would disable the ATX PSU, this is very mauch the same thing with a different type (PNP) of transistor.

http://www.tonymacx86.com/imac-mods/107859-kiwis-next-project-imac-g5-3.html#post667226

But this did work, so not sure why the circuit in the first link shouldn't work.

Kiwi
 
the only thing I would personally add is the ethernet on the rear IO.

Thanks for your comments, Kiwi and welcome back. I'll mix my replies into your text.

I agree about the ethernet. The cable is ordered from China, I'll be getting it soon I hope. That said, the WiFi in this system is absolutely stellar using Apple antennas from a 24" iMac. I'm maxxing out my router speeds on local network transfers.

The placement of the NUC (lower) and the cutting of the mid frame does have another advantage in that the CPU intake fan is more open and closer to fresh air in the bottom of the case. My concern against this is cutting the mid frame, reducing its strength, it is already quite thin and flexible (in parts), and also provides rigidity to the main plastic outer case.

The operating temps of this system are the lowest in my entire collection. I'm certain that the fresh air supply is a major contributor to that. The rear vent up top expels cool air, barely warm. The midframe cutting didn't compromise the structural integrity at all. I actually checked it after cutting. Very solid.

In my build I had to actually remove a couple of the “furls” you mention in you writeup, one came into contact with the NUC, and one in contact with the SMC unit. To anyone following this build, this is an option but I wouldn’t recommend removing to many of them.

Fortunately with the recessed mounting of the NUC, I didn't have to carve away the furls at all. It was damned close though, yikes.

One suggestion (to anyone following) for improvement would be to remove the second connector of the “Startech 8 inch ATX Cable”, and splice directly to the free cable ends, it removes some of the bulk, and allows the individual cables to be more directly routed.

Perhaps, yes. I liked the portability of this method though and less soldering. The DVD cover kind of hid it all anyway for better aesthetics.

The Startech ICUSBAUDIOB solution looks good, I have had issues with noise coming from the onboard NUC audio, so might consider this upgrade.

Noise? I had an issue with a 'humming' noise continuously emitting from one of my previous G5 builds. Placing a 56 Ohm resistor into the ground wire between the 5V amp and the PSU GND fixed it. In this build the sound is absolutely flawless. That said, the iSight models of iMac sport better sounding speakers than the A1076 does.

Q1. You cut an access port in the mid frame for the LCD TMDS cable. Why did you do this rather than route via the original cable path

I fiddled with this quite a bit. I wanted the HDMI cable glued to something for zero movement, so I chose the right side fan. Taking great care with the fragile TMDS wires, this solution yielded the best possible routing with the least potential for stress and damage. I can actually disconnect the video cable from the LCD without lifting the midplane, using a tiny screwdriver and a flashlight.

Q2. Interesting you implemented the ISD chime, how do you find the quality? My quality was so bad I just gave up, but have now ordered a different module, maybe the MIC quality was the issue.

Its not the stereo quality of the original iMac speakers, not by a long shot. I'm actually working on a revised solution (waiting for parts) that will implement a 44Khz wav file of the chime stored on a 2GB Sandisk card. Will post the results if or when I get it working. The iMac G4 internal speaker that I used is actually pretty good quality, its the ISD1820 recorder that is less than perfect due to its over-the-air recorder. Stay tuned...

Q3. Since you are the only modder to convert both iSight and non-iSight models of iMac, which would you recommend (and why) to builders, to achieve the best overall outcome?

They're both excellent mod candidates, in either 17 or 20 inch size. I'm hopefully going to be refitting my 20" iSight to use the original PSU and DC-DC Inverter. See my recent post about some interesting info I've discovered to accomplish that. If successful, the 20" iSight mod should actually be an easier one to accomplish than the 20" non-iSight, due to the re-use of the stock PSU and Inverter.

The non-iSight gives a sizeable advantage with the rear I/O because of the plastic housing. The iSight version really offers no option to re-use the ethernet, unless someone can figure out the wiring of the existing port. Both you and I had no luck with that, so far.

The iSight (believe it or not) is actually a little deeper than the non-iSight. Space is still tight, but depth is not as critical.

For a comparison of difficulty, I'll reserve comment until I can accomplish the re-use of the PSU/Inverter in the iSight model. That will level the playing field between the two versions of iMac G5.

A critical part of the non-iSight build (as you know) is the soldered HDMI/TMDS connection. Use of the Haswell NUC depends on this, and I'm not certain any other NUC would even fit in the non-iSight due to its limited depth. The iSight version is not so critical, an HDMI to DVI to TMDS solution was used with an i3 NUC in both of my previous iSight builds. This is VERY important in the decision of which iMac to use.

Neither is an easy mod, but both are equally rewarding. Mine were not near as technically advanced as yours, due to the lack of SMC board, but even at that I'd say the iMac mods were definitely both around a 9 out of 10 in difficulty, compared to other types of mods accomplished on this forum.

In my opinion is that it is about the challenge of building a modern computer that stays true to the original apple design. Remember the iMac itself hasn’t fundamentally changed changed in the last 10 years when the sunflower was retired, and potentially this sort of an upgrade could give 5-10 years more life to the computer. I guess its similar to people restoring classic cars.

My sentiments exactly. Well said.



Cheers!

Ersterhernd
 
Its not the stereo quality of the original iMac speakers, not by a long shot. I'm actually working on a revised solution (waiting for parts) that will implement a 44Khz wav file of the chime stored on a 2GB Sandisk card. Will post the results if or when I get it working. The iMac G4 internal speaker that I used is actually pretty good quality, its the ISD1820 recorder that is less than perfect due to its over-the-air recorder. Stay tuned...
I am taking a guess you are referring to this device. It was my next choice when I get time to play around with this.

http://www.buildcircuit.com/how-to-use-wtv020sd-music-module-with-arduino/

Your native PSU investigation looks promising. My only question would be is there a current limitation on the Stand-by power side of the PSU.

Kiwi
 
Hi Kiwi, it's the WT5001M02-28P module I have ordered. Waiting for it. For the little it cost, probably worth a shot. Theres not a ton of info available from what I saw.

The standby current of the iSight module is something I have not tested, but I'm thinking it'd be enough to run a 12v NUC. Time and testing will determine that. A very simple power solution if it all works.

On another topic, I've picked up an old broken A1076 psu, have removed all the caps from it and ordered a new set. Gonna be fun to see if it works when completed. Never replaced caps before.


IMG_0815.JPG




Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top