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Build Advice/Recommendations Needed

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Thanks in advance for this nice community in general!

I'm building my first Hackintosh, my first customized PC really, but I've worked with tech. maintenance a lot and is also a programmer, so although still uncertain but I think I'll be able to pull it off (fingers crossed). I've read the forums and some guides online, and decided I don't fully want to go the CustoMac route, but I'd still like to do some customization and troubleshooting (if needed...probably). I need some advice and recommendation on my build. Working through the ****** community, some seem to think this'll be

Here's my current build with a budget of $1100:
CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler*
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard**
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB Superlocked Video Card***
Case: Fractal Design Define S w/ Window ATX Mid Tower Case
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

*I'll be doing some graphics, 3D animations, and maybe gaming (not as prioritized), but not too intensively, so I won't be doing all these work 24/7, thus ****** suggested to go with the Noctua air cooler for quiet and efficient cooling, I was originally going for a liquid cooler, but it seems to be unneeded (?)

**I think I'm pretty much settled on this motherboard, but I haven't read much on other mobos, I only looked into the Gaming-3 and Gaming-5 until ****** recommended the SLI which I'm really liking right now.

***I am less certain about the video card, as I've never built a PC before
 
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Me, personally, I see no reason to have PCI slots on a next gen mobo. ymmv. Those PCI slots take the place that can be served for PCI-E X8, X4 and X1 cards. So if you want to add in a PCI-E SSD card, say for NVMe, you may run into problems.

One problem I see with the Gigabyte Z170 boards is that while they have two m2.SATA slots, the second m2 slot sits underneath the heat sink. You would never want to have to remove a heatsink to get to the RAM chips or the M2 SATA drive. Only option I can see is to make the second M2 slot into a slot that accepts an U2 NVMe adapter; but even then... But at least one has the option of installing a second drive. The question is which PCI-E slot it shares bandwidth with. If it's the ist PCI-E X16 slot, that usually accepts the vid card, then it is (IMO) useless since it will probably drive the vid card at X8.
 
Me, personally, I see no reason to have PCI slots on a next gen mobo. ymmv. Those PCI slots take the place that can be served for PCI-E X8, X4 and X1 cards. So if you want to add in a PCI-E SSD card, say for NVMe, you may run into problems.
One problem I see with the Gigabyte Z170 boards is that while they have two m2.SATA slots, the second m2 slot sits underneath the heat sink. You would never want to have to remove a heatsink to get to the RAM chips or the M2 SATA drive. Only option I can see is to make the second M2 slot into a slot that accepts an U2 NVMe adapter; but even then... But at least one has the option of installing a second drive. The question is which PCI-E slot it shares bandwidth with. If it's the ist PCI-E X16 slot, that usually accepts the vid card, then it is (IMO) useless since it will probably drive the vid card at X8.

I was also brought to the attention that the CPU cooler may be blocking some RAM slots, so it's making me rethink which mobo to use. Are there any recommended motherboards that come to mind. I was on another thread, and that person was using an ASRock Z170 Extreme 4 board.

Edit: I just realized it says you are using an Extreme 4 as well. The other guy also said that people are all really happy with the ASRock mobos. Do they support M.2 SSD? DDR4 RAM? Etc.
 
I have the Z97 Extreme 4, he has the Z170 Extreme 4. Both our boards have m.2 SATA slots. But some boards may have two m.2 SATA slots. It really depends on what you want. If you are interested in a m.2 SATA slot board you have to download their manual (whatever mobo manufacturer you are interested in) and see what PCI lanes they share with other devices.

Me, I don't see the need for a m.2 slot becuase it is limited to 6GB/s, same as SATA3 SSDs. Now, if I were building a single slot uATX or ITX board, then I would seriously consider installing a m.2 SATA drive as there would be no cabling necessary. So in a very small form factor PC they would be perfect, IMO. Think Mac Mini or iPad, for example. Now that NVMe is coming out everyone wants the u.2 SATA slots, just like everyone wants USB 3.1 and think that USB 3.0 is inferior.

I'll tell you a secret when it comes to motherboard reliability - it may depend greatly on the PSU. Take for example people who have Deep Sleep problems, where they have to pull the power cord on their PCs to get their machines to turn on. It just may be that the Power Supply does not support, or work with, deep sleep hibernation. That's why some PSUs were Kaswell Certified - the certification said that they could handle coming out of deep sleep, where very little power was being used.

Same goes for memory - you don't throw any memory that is on sale, you choose from the mobo's list of certified memory. There may still be problems, but chances are that the likelihood has been greatly diminished.

Me, I would never buy a returned mobo, from either Newegg or Fry Electronics. I want an un-opened box. Why? Because for all I know the Previous Owner didn't take anti-static precaustion and 9 months later my mobo starts having problems.

For greatest reliability the board to get would be authentic Intel boards. They are expensive to very expensive. But since Intel should make every chip on the board there should be minimal driver issues. Yes, Intel doesn't make their own mobos anymore. The point is that it is an Intel designed board, an Intel engineered board, and it must meet Intel's Quality and Quality Control standards. So, don'e expect to see cheap capacitors on a real Intel board, or cheap chokes, or cheap MosFETs, or VIA chips, for example, second or third party controllers, or connectors, etc.
 
Yea, the NVMe was exactly what I was looking for. I think I got confused by the Gigabyte site, because when I was looking at the Z170XP-SLI, it had NVMe listed in parenthesis by the M.2 slots...kind of confusing, but it's supposed 5x faster than the 6GB/s limit on SSD.

I'm looking for PSU and RAM from the CustoMac Builds, which all seem to be very reliable, but I'm not sure about how much switching around on the builds I can do.

At this point, it is only my initial build, I'm just starting to look into the specifics of each part and component to make tweaks, but what you said about the mobo I selected is making me look for alternative ones.

I like things out of the box as well!

Update: I just realized you're the bro from the other thread a well! Thanks for taking your time to help us out.
 
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Since I like ASRock I "randomly" picked one of their mobos, one of their top of the line ASRock Z170 Extreme 4+ at $165, to discuss some of the positives and negatives I see.

Had 5 PWM 4 pin fan connectors. Very nice, because they are all 4 pin connectors so it should run very quiet under light loads. But 6 would have been better, so that one can add a top cover exhaust fan. Do you now give up the ability to have two fans on the heatsink? One is enough for most people, and then the top cover 140mm or 220mm fan can be connected tot he CPU Fan2 connection, while connecting the rear fan its connection in the middle of the board at the rear, right where it should be.

Negative: the battery is right where the CPU heat sink could cover it. So you'll make sure that you buy a heat sink that won't cover cover it, like a Noctua.

Negative: the Ultra M.2 Slot gets covered by the video card. If the idea is to have the etches as close to the CPU as possible then it would make more sense to position it above the video card slot since the video card fans always face the bottom of the computer case. If you buy a 128GB SSD now and later on decide to upgrade to a 256GB, then a 512GB, then a 1024GB SSD, each time you will need to remove the video card.

Now what makes it $20 more than the ASRock Z170 Extrme 4? The front panel IO cage, which basically has an eSata connector on it. If it's not something which you already have a need for, why pay the extra $20?

Compare to the lower priced $90 ASRock Z170A-X1.

Negative: only 3 PWM fan connectors. The CPU fan connector is where you would expect it to be but the two chassis fan connectors are in the front, which means that if you want to connect a rear chassis fan you will have to route the cable from back to front, between the CPU heatsink and the video card (or behind the mobo through a long extension cord).

Negative, two PCIe X16 slots, one running at X16, the other at X4 (that is where you would install the NVMe adpater card).

Positives: battery location, 6 SATA connectors at the bottom which you can push right in instead of inserting through the side. Some prefer the side, others prefer the easier install of the ones what plug right in. It may depend on the case.

If you consider non-Killer NIC Gigagbyte boards, the lowest priced Z170 would be the GA-Z170X-UD3. Reading the neg reviews at Newegg seems to indicate that the board may not line up correctly with the case mounting holes. But it does have some very nice additions: two 32GB/s m.2 SATA connectors, a fan header for water cooling, nice placement of fan headers, etc.

Just look at a lot of boards, read the reviews, starting with the negative reviews first, look at the specs and placement and you should be able to wittle down the list to two or three after awhile. Best of luck.
 
Hi kiiroaka, thanks for the few board suggestions.

I was thinking I'd stick with the Noctua NH-D15 due to such positive reviews, and how quiet it seems to be running with 2 fans. I'm aware it'll be blocking the RAM ports for easy access to switching/adding RAM, but due to it's well designed mounting system I think I'll be okay with the NH-D15. I would rather have this 2 fan cooler because I sometimes do graphics (2D and 3D) and a lot of programming so I rather keep it that way. It's also a pretty nice price with such a cooler.

Negative: The only down side I can tell from the NH-D15 is that for most ATX boards it'll be blocking the first PCIe ports near the center of the board, which is usually a PCIe x1 port, so I think I'll be fine with this as well. As long as my graphics card isn't too thick, it shouldn't be affected by the PCIe x16 near the heatsinks.

Just looking at your reviews of the ASRock Z170A-X1 which is about $90, although it may have only 3 fan power supplies, I can get something like a NZXT H440 case, which has a fan power splitter on the back.

What I'm doing now: Since going through the boards are a little overwhelming, I'm going through the individual parts first and seeing which board is more fitting. I'm aware some people do it the other way around, starting with the mobo first.

Thanks!
 
I think if you read the reviews on the NH-U14S and the NH-D15 that the the U14S is within 1 degree in temps, is less expensive (unless you add a second fan to the U14S) and is superior in mounting ease. Me, I would get the U14S and add a second fan. Removing the fans to get to the RAM sticks is relatively painless and is very easy.

http://www.overclockers.com/noctua-nh-d15s-heatsink-review/ D15S vs. D15
http://techbuyersguru.com/noctuas-nh-u14s-and-nh-d15s-cpu-coolers-take-best *****

Why Noctua believes it's doing users a favor by pre-installing these, we really don't know.
ibid.

So that you can readily see how it is mounted. And as you un-mount it you will know how to re-mount it.

At least consider the NH-D15S over the NH-D15.[/quote]
 
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Ok then I'll give the NH-U14S a look into. It does seem to be more efficient compared to the D15 in the article you provided, cheaper as well. Seems like a good buy. Any other components you highly recommended like the cooler?

Also I'm don't what type of case I want to use, I find the Thermaltake Core P5 really cool. And I know I probably don't have the best looking parts, I'm even considering to use the Corsair Budget RAMs, just cause it saves some bucks in the budget and I can reallocate the use of the money to a better GPU or something. But I like the look of the interior of the desktop PC regardless of all the colourful water-cooling systems and LEDs anyway. My point is, I'll like the look anyway...

I also like the NZXT H440, it seems really quiet, but it has thicker padding, making the wire management a little harder to do. Also the case isn't as modular as most cases are. But I like the look of it and all the little touches it has, like a LED on the back, fan power splitter, etc.

Update: I was looking at NH-U14S and NH-D15 reviews, most seem to say that the U14S is better when it has 2 fans (?? or am I misinterpreting? ...not sure), but it does look like a good cooler, definitely better than the Intel one (not the best standards to go by, but at work that's what they got me, and it works pretty well with the i7 6700)...
 
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The first question you want to answer is whether or not you will be overclocking and if so, how far are you willing to go? If you will not be overclocking then the U14S should be more than able as it supposedly is good to about 220W TDP.

The Intel Core i7 6700K is a 91W TDP CPU so the U14S shouldn't have any problem keeping it adequately cooled. Since it's a 4.2GHZ Turbo capable CPU you might be able to do 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, maybe even 4.7GHZ. But I doubt you can do any more than that.http://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/overclocking-intel-core-i7-6700k/ did 4.9GHZ but decided to run at 4.8GHZ on air cooling. Me, I probably would have gone with a Swiftech water cooler at 4.5GHZ, only because I'd be paranoid. (Imagine the research you're going to have to do just on the thermal paste. ;) )

The Thermaltake Core P5 is a very pretty case. But for me it would be too limiting as it can only hold 4 disc drives. Since you're contemplating it you are going to have to choose your power supply very carefully because you won't want wires routed haphazardly. It's not only got to look good, it has to look great.

https://www.google.com/search?clien...+review+site&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

If it is money that you are trying to save why buy an expensive case? (In my youth I would buy expensive cases, overly heavy cases, costing about $200. There comes a time when the case no longer will support a new mobo and you end up throwing it away. Remeber cases that had the power supply over the mobo? Now the power supply goes under the mobo. Remember the cases where the mobo was accessible from the right case cover instead of the left case cover? Both good designs but what I wanted was a video card that had the fans facing upwards. ) If you go with the Thermaltake Core P5 you really should go with a pretty Swiftech water cooler. :D
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16835108219 But how would you mount it? Same goes for any other fan, how would you mount the fans? If you even think for a moment, "Why, cut into the poly glass side cover," then that case is not for you. Ultimately you may find that the P5 is impractical.

http://www.pcgamer.com/20-of-the-best-cases-for-your-next-pc-build/

Here's a simple question: Will you need a 5" slot, say for a CD, DVD or BD burner? If not, if you're strictly going to use USB sticks, you can either choose a case that has no 5" bays or a case that has a 120mm front fan in the 5" bay area to cool the RAM sticks. For some guys they either install fan controllers or USB/BT panels. For the vast majority of users they never use all the space or just use a single drive. The guys who don't have 5" drive bays they can connect a slim DVD burner (about $25) to a USB port when needed and put away for the majority of the time it isn't necessary. Same goes for cases with flush front panels - how long do you think it will last before the front door breaks? Wouldn't a front door also impinge and restrict air flow if you have front panel fans? So while I love the Fractal Design R5 that front door gives me pause. Looks good but...

http://www.tomshardware.com/t/cases/

Some guys want doors that hinge. Which are great if you have the room to open the doors but could be a liability if it's sitting next to a desk. Me, I suggest that one never place a PC on the floor since it will suck in dust, dirt and animal hair. Heck, at work my SFF (Small Form Factor) PC is on my desk and the second the fans start to spin faster I know that it is starting to overheat and I have to blow it out.

My criteria was that I wanted a case which had top exhaust vents, with at least one 140mm cutout, preferably two, or be able to install a 220mm top fan, have no more than three 5" front slots, be able to install a 140mm rear exhaust fan, be able to install two 140mm front panel fans (a 220mm fan doesn't cool as nicely as two 120s or 140s - but they work great as exhaust fans), have enough space behind the mobo for wire routing and be able to install HDDs such that I can route the wire from the back.

Some guys like their drives mounted vertically (they tend to be more reliable), or mounted front to back so that installing cables is much easier, albeit being less attractive. The closest I could find was the Antec 302. It's not perfect, but it is close. I would have preferred a 140mm rear fan, and 1" more space on top of the motherboard to allow water cooling or a 220mm fan. Look at what I mean: https://files.pccasegear.com/UserFiles/CC-9011078-WW-fs1_01.jpg See the room you have to install a top water cooler? But, seeing as I started looking at the $200 cases and worked my way down, the $50 Antec serves me well.

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/09/06/antec_three_hundred_two_midtower_case_review/#.V3cfb1aEBGx

See the P6 wiring harness draped over the heatsink?:
http://www.hardocp.com/image.html?image=MTM0NjY3MDk2NW9RdER2eWZ3YTRfMl8yX2wuanBn
I couldn't live with that. I routed it underneath but what I wanted to do was to make a cutout at the top of the mobo mounting plate area so that I could route the P6 harness behind the mobo and then drape it down at the top for a truly invisible look.

If you are thinking of going with all SSDs and no CD/DVD/BD 5" drive, then that case is all wrong for you. Me, I knew that I would be going with at least 4 HDDs, so for me it's perfect.

If the case doesn't come with front USB 3.0 connections, then don't buy it. If the case doesn't come with a USB wiring harness that plugs into the mobo, don't buy it. Years from now when manufacturers do alway with the single plug USB connectors the case will be obsolete.

For me, the Corsiar 300R came in second place. Why? I didn't like the small size of the exhaust air holes. I just knew that I would be cutting out a lot of metal to get it to where I could live it it. I'd cut the metal and mount fans on the outside. It's all about air flow...
http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/corsair-carbide-300r-review,1.html

https://www.pccasegear.com/category/25_547/cases/all-models

You have to decide whether you want form over function, or function over form. If you can find one that has both, then that would be a great case. But chances are that you may have to spend a lot for it.

Me, I like something like the AeroCool Aeri800,https://www.pccasegear.com/products/33085/aerocool-pgs-aero-1000-mid-tower-case-white

Regarding the NZXT H440: it's a nice case but the front door has got to go. I like air flow. The drive bay layout is nice but I doubt that it needs the bottom of the HDDs covered; I'd rather they were fully open for better air flow cooling.
 
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